https://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Dhembry&feedformat=atomEvil Mad Scientist Wiki - User contributions [en]2024-03-28T19:04:16ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.28.2https://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Using_The_Big_Digit_Driver&diff=1025Using The Big Digit Driver2011-06-29T02:42:08Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page covers basic usage of the Evil Mad Science [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]] (BDD).<br />
<br />
== Safety ==<br />
The Big Digit Driver is an electrical device and uses voltages and currents not used by most hobby electronics projects. Care should be taken to avoid touching or shorting out any exposed traces, pins, or contacts when the BDD is powered. Be aware that the 12" display sold by Evil Mad Science LLC has uninsulated traces on its back.<br />
<br />
'''Note: Given the power involved parts on the BDD - especially the LM317 current regulators - will become hot during use!'''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Power == <br />
A single 12 inch LED display (as sold by Evil Mad Science), when attached to a BDD, uses about 0.7 amps at 36 volts DC. Do not exceed 40 volts when using the BDD.<br />
<br />
The BDD has two methods for accepting power: a 2.1mm barrel jack (center positive), and a pair of screw terminals. The barrel jack has a power rating suitable only for powering a single digit and should NOT be used for powering a series of digits. The two screw terminals on the board are for attaching a power supply in permanent installations and for powering a series of digits in a 'daisy chain' configuration. Do not exceed five amps of current through any given board.<br />
<br />
Do not connect multiple power supplies to one BBD. If you are using a large number of digit in series, the series should be split into group of digits, each with their own power supply. Do not wire power supplies in parallel! This may damage your BDD's and/or the power supplies and/or you.<br />
<br />
For powering a single display and BDD in a permanent installation Evil Mad Science recommends using a weather-proofed power supply like the [http://www.meanwell.com/search/lpv-35/ Meanwell LPV-35-36].<br />
<br />
For power a large number of displays and BDDs, Evil Mad Science recommends using a weather-proofed power supply like the [http://www.meanwell.com/search/hlg-240/ Meanwell HLG-240-36].<br />
<br />
'''Note: Evil Mad Science LLC does not provide support for any power supply we do not sell. We recommend that users acquire the services of a professional electrician when installing or maintaining custom power wiring.'''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Communication ==<br />
The Big Digit Driver (BDD) was designed with the [http://arduino.cc/ Arduino] platform in mind and thus has a 6 pin (2x3 DIL) header that matches the SPI header found on most Arduino boards. The Arduino can manipulate the pins connected to its SPI header like any of its other pins, and the header makes a handy attachment point. To connect an Arduino to a BDD, use a suitable cable to connect the SPI header on the Arduino to the SPI header on the BDD. Take care to note the placement of pin one on both the Arduino and BDD. The BDD marks pin one on each of its SPI headers with a large triangle.<br />
<br />
The BDD contains a simple eight bit shift register hooked up to the header. Data is shifted in by setting the MOSI pin high or low, and then pulsing the SCK pin to clock the data in. The shift register we use (a 74595) also has a latch between the shift register and the outputs. This allows us to change the contents of the shift register but not 'display' that data until we've finished clocking in all the data. A pulse the MISO pin will copy data to the latches and thus the outputs.<br />
<br />
Here is an overview of the various signals used by the BDD:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|ATMega IC Pin<br />
|ATMega Port<br />
|Arduino Pin<br />
|SPI Symbol<br />
|BDD Shift Register Function<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|PB5<br />
|Digital 13<br />
|SCK<br />
|Register Clock<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|PB4<br />
|Digital 12<br />
|MISO<br />
|Latch Clock<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|PB3<br />
|Digital 11<br />
|MOSI<br />
|Serial Data In<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Data Format ==<br />
The display this driver was designed to work with has eight segments: seven segments to display digits zero through nine, and one segment for a decimal point. Each bit in the shift register controls a segment:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|Bit<br />
|7<br />
|6<br />
|5<br />
|4<br />
|3<br />
|2<br />
|1<br />
|0<br />
|----<br />
|Segment<br />
|DP<br />
|G<br />
|F<br />
|E<br />
|D<br />
|C<br />
|B<br />
|A<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/howto/segments.png<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The following table provides a list of characters and their associated bit pattern:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|Symbol<br />
|Decimal<br />
|Hex<br />
|Binary<br />
|----<br />
|0<br />
|63<br />
|0x3F<br />
|00111111<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|6<br />
|0x06<br />
|00000110<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|91<br />
|0x5B<br />
|01011011<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|79<br />
|0x4F<br />
|01001111<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|102<br />
|0x66<br />
|01100110<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|109<br />
|0x6D<br />
|01101101<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|125<br />
|0x7D<br />
|01111101<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|7<br />
|0x07<br />
|00000111<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|127<br />
|0x7F<br />
|01111111<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|111<br />
|0x6F<br />
|01101111<br />
|----<br />
|A<br />
|119<br />
|0x77<br />
|01110111<br />
|----<br />
|b<br />
|124<br />
|0x7C<br />
|01111100<br />
|----<br />
|C<br />
|57<br />
|0x39<br />
|00111001<br />
|----<br />
|d<br />
|94<br />
|0x5E<br />
|01011110<br />
|----<br />
|E<br />
|121<br />
|0x79<br />
|01111001<br />
|----<br />
|F<br />
|113<br />
|0x71<br />
|01110001<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Driving A Series Of Digits ==<br />
The BDD is designed to be used to drive a large number of digits from a single controller (Arduino or otherwise). As mentioned above, the BDD can carry up to five amps, allowing up to seven displays in series from a single power supply.<br />
To propagate data and clock signals down a series of displays BDD boards can be 'daisy chained' by connecting the 'output' SPI header of a display to the 'input' SPI header of the next display in the series. When looking at the silkscreen side of a BDD board (with the text right way up) the input SPI header is on the left-hand side. The output SPI header is on the right-hand side. Ensure that you have the data cables attached correctly. On the BDD, pin one of both SPI headers is marked with a large triangle. We recommend using the Schmitt trigger included with the BDD kit, even for short runs of digits. Refer to the [[Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions#21._Optional:_Insert_Schmitt_Trigger|assembly instructions]] for more information.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Code Examples ==<br />
=== Arduinio ===<br />
==== Display 123456 ====<br />
This block of code will display the string '123456' on a series of six displays.<br />
<nowiki>//This sketch will push the string '123456' out to a series of Big Digit Drivers.<br />
<br />
void setup() { <br />
pinMode(13, OUTPUT); //SH_CP/SCK Shift register clock<br />
pinMode(12, OUTPUT); //SR_CP/MISO Latch Clock<br />
pinMode(11, OUTPUT); //DS/MOSI Serial data in<br />
<br />
//Blank out the register<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x00);<br />
digitalWrite(12, HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(12, LOW);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void loop() {<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x06); //'1'; segments B and C, or b00000110<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x5B); //'2'; segments A, B, D, E, G or b01011011<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x4F); //'3'; segments A, B, C, D, G, or b01001111<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x66); //'4'; segments B, C, F, G, or b01100110<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x6D); //'5'; segments A, C, D, F, G, or b01101101<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x7D); //'6'; segments A, C, D, E, F, G, or b01111101<br />
<br />
//Pulse the latch clock to load the output<br />
digitalWrite(12, HIGH); <br />
digitalWrite(12, LOW);<br />
<br />
delay(1000);<br />
<br />
}//End loop</nowiki><br />
<br />
==== Test Pattern ====<br />
This block of code will turn half of the segments on, (other) half of the segments on, turn on all the segments, and then turn all segment off. Loops indefinitely. If used on a series of digits, you should see each stage of the pattern work its way down the line.<br />
<nowiki>//This sketch cycles through four states (half on, other half on, all on, all off) to test all segments of display.<br />
<br />
byte data = 0x00;<br />
int state = 0;<br />
<br />
<br />
void segout(byte data) { <br />
//Shift data out to shift register<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, data);<br />
<br />
//Pulse the latch clock to load the output<br />
digitalWrite(12, HIGH); <br />
digitalWrite(12, LOW);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void setup() { <br />
pinMode(13, OUTPUT); //SH_CP/SCK Shift register clock<br />
pinMode(12, OUTPUT); //SR_CP/MISO Latch Clock<br />
pinMode(11, OUTPUT); //DS/MOSI Serial data in<br />
<br />
//Blank out the register<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x00);<br />
digitalWrite(12, HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(12, LOW);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void loop() {<br />
switch (state) {<br />
case 0:<br />
data = 0xAA; //b10101010<br />
state = 1;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
case 1:<br />
data = 0x55; //b01010101<br />
state = 2;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
case 2:<br />
data = 0xFF; //b11111111<br />
state=3;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
case 3:<br />
data = 0x00; //b00000000<br />
state=0;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
}//End switch<br />
<br />
//Write the data to the shift register<br />
segout(data);<br />
<br />
delay(2000);<br />
<br />
}//End loop</nowiki></div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Using_The_Big_Digit_Driver&diff=1024Using The Big Digit Driver2011-06-29T02:34:34Z<p>Dhembry: Added safety notice</p>
<hr />
<div>This page covers basic usage of the Evil Mad Science [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]] (BDD).<br />
<br />
== Safety ==<br />
The Big Digit Driver is an electrical device and uses voltages and currents not used by most hobby electronics projects. Care should be taken to avoid touching or shorting out any exposed traces, pins, or contacts when the BDD is powered. Be aware that the 12" display sold by Evil Mad Science LLC has uninsulated traces on its back.<br />
<br />
'''Note: Given the power involved, parts on the BDD - especially the LM317 current regulators - will become hot during use!'''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Power == <br />
A single 12 inch LED display (as sold by Evil Mad Science), when attached to a BDD, uses about 0.7 amps at 36 volts DC. Do not exceed 40 volts when using the BDD.<br />
<br />
The BDD has two methods for accepting power: a 2.1mm barrel jack (center positive), and a pair of screw terminals. The barrel jack has a power rating suitable only for powering a single digit and should NOT be used for powering a series of digits. The two screw terminals on the board are for attaching a power supply in permanent installations and for powering a series of digits in a 'daisy chain' configuration. Do not exceed five amps of current through any given board.<br />
<br />
Do not connect multiple power supplies to one BBD. If you are using a large number of digit in series, the series should be split into group of digits, each with their own power supply. Do not wire power supplies in parallel! This may damage your BDD's and/or the power supplies and/or you.<br />
<br />
For powering a single display and BDD in a permanent installation Evil Mad Science recommends using a weather-proofed power supply like the [http://www.meanwell.com/search/lpv-35/ Meanwell LPV-35-36].<br />
<br />
For power a large number of displays and BDDs, Evil Mad Science recommends using a weather-proofed power supply like the [http://www.meanwell.com/search/hlg-240/ Meanwell HLG-240-36].<br />
<br />
'''Note: Evil Mad Science LLC does not provide support for any power supply we do not sell. We recommend that users acquire the services of a professional electrician when installing or maintaining custom power wiring.'''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Communication ==<br />
The Big Digit Driver (BDD) was designed with the [http://arduino.cc/ Arduino] platform in mind and thus has a 6 pin (2x3 DIL) header that matches the SPI header found on most Arduino boards. The Arduino can manipulate the pins connected to its SPI header like any of its other pins, and the header makes a handy attachment point. To connect an Arduino to a BDD, use a suitable cable to connect the SPI header on the Arduino to the SPI header on the BDD. Take care to note the placement of pin one on both the Arduino and BDD. The BDD marks pin one on each of its SPI headers with a large triangle.<br />
<br />
The BDD contains a simple eight bit shift register hooked up to the header. Data is shifted in by setting the MOSI pin high or low, and then pulsing the SCK pin to clock the data in. The shift register we use (a 74595) also has a latch between the shift register and the outputs. This allows us to change the contents of the shift register but not 'display' that data until we've finished clocking in all the data. A pulse the MISO pin will copy data to the latches and thus the outputs.<br />
<br />
Here is an overview of the various signals used by the BDD:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|ATMega IC Pin<br />
|ATMega Port<br />
|Arduino Pin<br />
|SPI Symbol<br />
|BDD Shift Register Function<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|PB5<br />
|Digital 13<br />
|SCK<br />
|Register Clock<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|PB4<br />
|Digital 12<br />
|MISO<br />
|Latch Clock<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|PB3<br />
|Digital 11<br />
|MOSI<br />
|Serial Data In<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Data Format ==<br />
The display this driver was designed to work with has eight segments: seven segments to display digits zero through nine, and one segment for a decimal point. Each bit in the shift register controls a segment:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|Bit<br />
|7<br />
|6<br />
|5<br />
|4<br />
|3<br />
|2<br />
|1<br />
|0<br />
|----<br />
|Segment<br />
|DP<br />
|G<br />
|F<br />
|E<br />
|D<br />
|C<br />
|B<br />
|A<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/howto/segments.png<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The following table provides a list of characters and their associated bit pattern:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|Symbol<br />
|Decimal<br />
|Hex<br />
|Binary<br />
|----<br />
|0<br />
|63<br />
|0x3F<br />
|00111111<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|6<br />
|0x06<br />
|00000110<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|91<br />
|0x5B<br />
|01011011<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|79<br />
|0x4F<br />
|01001111<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|102<br />
|0x66<br />
|01100110<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|109<br />
|0x6D<br />
|01101101<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|125<br />
|0x7D<br />
|01111101<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|7<br />
|0x07<br />
|00000111<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|127<br />
|0x7F<br />
|01111111<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|111<br />
|0x6F<br />
|01101111<br />
|----<br />
|A<br />
|119<br />
|0x77<br />
|01110111<br />
|----<br />
|b<br />
|124<br />
|0x7C<br />
|01111100<br />
|----<br />
|C<br />
|57<br />
|0x39<br />
|00111001<br />
|----<br />
|d<br />
|94<br />
|0x5E<br />
|01011110<br />
|----<br />
|E<br />
|121<br />
|0x79<br />
|01111001<br />
|----<br />
|F<br />
|113<br />
|0x71<br />
|01110001<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Driving A Series Of Digits ==<br />
The BDD is designed to be used to drive a large number of digits from a single controller (Arduino or otherwise). As mentioned above, the BDD can carry up to five amps, allowing up to seven displays in series from a single power supply.<br />
To propagate data and clock signals down a series of displays BDD boards can be 'daisy chained' by connecting the 'output' SPI header of a display to the 'input' SPI header of the next display in the series. When looking at the silkscreen side of a BDD board (with the text right way up) the input SPI header is on the left-hand side. The output SPI header is on the right-hand side. Ensure that you have the data cables attached correctly. On the BDD, pin one of both SPI headers is marked with a large triangle. We recommend using the Schmitt trigger included with the BDD kit, even for short runs of digits. Refer to the [[Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions#21._Optional:_Insert_Schmitt_Trigger|assembly instructions]] for more information.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Code Examples ==<br />
=== Arduinio ===<br />
==== Display 123456 ====<br />
This block of code will display the string '123456' on a series of six displays.<br />
<nowiki>//This sketch will push the string '123456' out to a series of Big Digit Drivers.<br />
<br />
void setup() { <br />
pinMode(13, OUTPUT); //SH_CP/SCK Shift register clock<br />
pinMode(12, OUTPUT); //SR_CP/MISO Latch Clock<br />
pinMode(11, OUTPUT); //DS/MOSI Serial data in<br />
<br />
//Blank out the register<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x00);<br />
digitalWrite(12, HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(12, LOW);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void loop() {<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x06); //'1'; segments B and C, or b00000110<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x5B); //'2'; segments A, B, D, E, G or b01011011<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x4F); //'3'; segments A, B, C, D, G, or b01001111<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x66); //'4'; segments B, C, F, G, or b01100110<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x6D); //'5'; segments A, C, D, F, G, or b01101101<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x7D); //'6'; segments A, C, D, E, F, G, or b01111101<br />
<br />
//Pulse the latch clock to load the output<br />
digitalWrite(12, HIGH); <br />
digitalWrite(12, LOW);<br />
<br />
delay(1000);<br />
<br />
}//End loop</nowiki><br />
<br />
==== Test Pattern ====<br />
This block of code will turn half of the segments on, (other) half of the segments on, turn on all the segments, and then turn all segment off. Loops indefinitely. If used on a series of digits, you should see each stage of the pattern work its way down the line.<br />
<nowiki>//This sketch cycles through four states (half on, other half on, all on, all off) to test all segments of display.<br />
<br />
byte data = 0x00;<br />
int state = 0;<br />
<br />
<br />
void segout(byte data) { <br />
//Shift data out to shift register<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, data);<br />
<br />
//Pulse the latch clock to load the output<br />
digitalWrite(12, HIGH); <br />
digitalWrite(12, LOW);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void setup() { <br />
pinMode(13, OUTPUT); //SH_CP/SCK Shift register clock<br />
pinMode(12, OUTPUT); //SR_CP/MISO Latch Clock<br />
pinMode(11, OUTPUT); //DS/MOSI Serial data in<br />
<br />
//Blank out the register<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x00);<br />
digitalWrite(12, HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(12, LOW);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void loop() {<br />
switch (state) {<br />
case 0:<br />
data = 0xAA; //b10101010<br />
state = 1;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
case 1:<br />
data = 0x55; //b01010101<br />
state = 2;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
case 2:<br />
data = 0xFF; //b11111111<br />
state=3;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
case 3:<br />
data = 0x00; //b00000000<br />
state=0;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
}//End switch<br />
<br />
//Write the data to the shift register<br />
segout(data);<br />
<br />
delay(2000);<br />
<br />
}//End loop</nowiki></div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=1021Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-22T02:41:31Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Part Number<br />
|Quantity/Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|Printed circuit board<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|24 ohm resistor<br />
|Carbon film resistor, 1/4 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 - R5<br />
|68 ohm resistor<br />
|Carbon film resistor, 1/4 watt<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|16 ohm resistor<br />
|Carbon film resistor, 1/4 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|1 k resistor<br />
|Carbon film resistor, 1/4 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|10 V, 1 W zener diode<br />
|1N4740A<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|IC Socket for shift register<br />
|16 pin DIP, 0.3" spacing<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|IC Socket for buffer IC<br />
|14 pin DIP, 0.3" spacing<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|rowspan="2"|9<br />
|JP1 - JP3: DO NOT POPULATE<br />
|Leave Empty!<br />
|rowspan="2"|Zero ohm jumpers<br />
|rowspan="2"|Digikey<br />
|rowspan="2"|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|rowspan="2"|2<br />
|----<br />
|JP4, JP5<br />
|SPI Ground Jumpers<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 - Q8<br />
|40V NPN Transistor<br />
|2N3904, 40V<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Adjustable Linear Regulator<br />
|LM317L, 100 mA<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|5V Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 150 mA<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor, 10 uF<br />
|Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors, 0.1 uF <br />
|Ceramic Capacitor, 25 V<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Indicator LED<br />
|3mm yellow diffused-lens<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style 3. 5mm<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|6-pin SPI interface headers<br />
|0.1" DIL Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack, high current<br />
|2.1 mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register IC<br />
|74HCT595, DIP-16<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt-input "buffer" IC <br />
|74ACT14, DIP-16<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector (card edge)<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Standoffs (for digit top)<br />
|Round, threaded 6-32 x 7/8"<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|Round, threaded 6-32 x 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Spacers (for digit top)<br />
|#6 x 1/16" nylon washers<br />
|McMaster-Carr<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display/Driver Board spacer<br />
|#6 x 1/8" nylon washer<br />
|McMaster-Carr<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Mounting Screws<br />
|Button Socket Cap Screw, 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|8<br />
|---- <br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
This document will show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the empty printed circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_001.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_002.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one! Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_003.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_004.jpg<br />
<br />
This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board (location J4).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_005.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_006.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder the leads and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_007.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_008.jpg<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_009.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Next, we'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_010.jpg<br />
<br />
All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_012.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_011.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_013.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_014.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_015.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, let's install the 16 ohm (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold) resistors. These come as a segment from a large spool. Just pull them straight out and straighten the leads as needed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_016.jpg<br />
<br />
Installation procedure for these is exactly the same as the resistors above. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board). Here's what they look like when installed:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_017.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base Resistors ===<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_018.jpg<br />
<br />
Install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a line across the middle of the board, right above the resistors we installed in step 4). You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use the last one in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step 5. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
This is what your board should look like now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_020.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_022.jpg<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have a black line wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_021.jpg<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_023.jpg<br />
<br />
Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in! Double check the orientation of your diodes before you solder them.<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes is pretty much the same as the resistors we installed above.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. SPI Header Ground Jumpers ===<br />
Next, we will install the jumpers that connect the Big Digit Driver to the SPI ground line. For this we'll use zero ohm wire jumpers, which look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of four or more. (If you should need additional jumpers beyond those included with the kit, you can use plain wire as a substitute.)<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_030.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing them in locations JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes) and JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board). Here is what they look like when installed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_031.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_090.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
''Please note that locations JP1, JP2, and JP3 are normally left unpopulated.''<br />
<br />
(Aside: Jumpers at JP1-JP3 can be used to bypass the Schmitt-input "buffer" chip. Even though some of our photos do show these installed, please leave JP1-JP3 empty ''unless you really know what you're doing''. If for a good reason you do install jumpers in JP1-JP3, you ''must not'' install the Schmitt-input "buffer" IC in location U10, and instead leave that socket empty.)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Shift Register and Schmitt-input "Buffer" Sockets ===<br />
Next, we will install the sockets for the ICs.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_024.jpg<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint outline? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place). Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_026.jpg<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulator when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_027.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_028.jpg<br />
<br />
Then repeat for the other socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_029.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_033.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_034.jpg<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a look at the board. See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_035.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Current Regulators ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 10, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_036.jpg<br />
<br />
Install these in a line just below the transistors, in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matters! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_037.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
This part will look look identical to the current regulators in step 11, except that they will have the number '750L05' on them.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_038.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_039.jpg<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matters! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board). Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_040.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_041.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_042.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label). Don't worry about orientation.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_043.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_044.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Other Capacitors ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_046.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_047.jpg<br />
<br />
These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop them in.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_049.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_048.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_050.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_051.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_052.jpg<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_055.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_054.jpg<br />
<br />
Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_053.jpg<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_057.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_056.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. SPI Headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board. Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_060.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_059.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_062.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_061.jpg<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_063.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_064.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_065.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. It is the top chip in this photo:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
You may need to straighten the pins to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
''Orientation matters:'' Notice the half-moon shaped notch on one end of the IC-- on the left end in the photo. That notch must line up with the notch on the IC footprint on the board and socket. Insert the chip firmly and fully into the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_067.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Schmitt-input buffer IC ===<br />
The Schmitt-input buffer IC is the 14 pin chip that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it. It is the bottom chip in this photo.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
Install this chip at location U10. ''Orientation matters:'' Again, the notch on the IC must line up with the notch on the IC footprint on the board and socket. Insert the chip firmly and fully into the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_068.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_069.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_070.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components). The connector faces 'upwards', toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_071.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_072.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 22. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_094.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing an insulator to prevent the Big Digit Driver board from coming on contact with the display and causing a short circuit. We'll also be attaching metal standoffs to the back of the display for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 23. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. Plugging the display into the edge connector should do a pretty good job lining up the mounting holes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_080.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 24. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_081.jpg<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 25. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch (3.2mm) thick nylon washer, 1/2 inch (12.7mm) long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch (19mm) tall threaded standoff. On the bottom corners, pass a screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_091.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 26. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch (1.6mm) thick nylon washer, 7/8 inch (22.2mm) tall threaded standoff, and 1/2 inch (12.7mm) long 6-32 threaded screw. On the top corners, pass a screw through the display board and washer. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_088.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 27. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done with assembly! You're ready to mount it and get started using it! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes. Next you can head over to [[Using_The_Big_Digit_Driver|Using The Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_092.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_083.jpg</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=994Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-17T03:58:36Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Part Number<br />
|Quantity/Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|Printed circuit board<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|24 ohm resistor<br />
|Carbon film resistor, 1/4 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 - R5<br />
|68 ohm resistor<br />
|Carbon film resistor, 1/4 watt<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|16 ohm resistor<br />
|Carbon film resistor, 1/4 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|1 k resistor<br />
|Carbon film resistor, 1/4 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|10 V, 1 W zener diode<br />
|1N4740A<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|IC Socket for shift register<br />
|16 pin DIP, 0.3" spacing<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|IC Socket for buffer IC<br />
|14 pin DIP, 0.3" spacing<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|rowspan="2"|9<br />
|JP1 - JP3: DO NOT POPULATE<br />
|Leave Empty!<br />
|rowspan="2"|Zero ohm jumpers<br />
|rowspan="2"|Digikey<br />
|rowspan="2"|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|rowspan="2"|2<br />
|----<br />
|JP4, JP5<br />
|SPI Ground Jumpers<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 - Q8<br />
|40V NPN Transistor<br />
|2N3904, 40V<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Adjustable Linear Regulator<br />
|LM317L, 100 mA<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|5V Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 150 mA<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor, 10 uF<br />
|Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors, 0.1 uF <br />
|Ceramic Capacitor, 25 V<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Indicator LED<br />
|3mm yellow diffused-lens<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style 3. 5mm<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|6-pin SPI interface headers<br />
|0.1" DIL Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack, high current<br />
|2.1 mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register IC<br />
|74HCT595, DIP-16<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt-input "buffer" IC <br />
|74ACT14, DIP-16<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector (card edge)<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Standoffs (for digit top)<br />
|Round, threaded 6-32 x 7/8"<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Standoffs (for digit top)<br />
|Round, threaded 6-32 x 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Spacers (for digit top)<br />
|#6 x 1/16" nylon washers<br />
|McMaster-Carr<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display/Driver Board spacer<br />
|#6 x 1/8" nylon washer<br />
|McMaster-Carr<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Mounting Screws<br />
|Button Socket Cap Screw, 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|8<br />
|---- <br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
This document will show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the empty printed circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_001.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_002.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one! Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_003.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_004.jpg<br />
<br />
This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board (location J4).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_005.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_006.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder the leads and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_007.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_008.jpg<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_009.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Next, we'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_010.jpg<br />
<br />
All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_012.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_011.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_013.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_014.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_015.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, let's install the 16 ohm (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold) resistors. These come as a segment from a large spool. Just pull them straight out and straighten the leads as needed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_016.jpg<br />
<br />
Installation procedure for these is exactly the same as the resistors above. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board). Here's what they look like when installed:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_017.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_018.jpg<br />
<br />
Install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a line across the middle of the board, right above the resistors we installed in step 4). You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use the last one in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step 5. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
This is what your board should look like now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_020.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_022.jpg<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have a black line wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_021.jpg<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_023.jpg<br />
<br />
Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in! Double check the orientation of your diodes before you solder them.<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes is pretty much the same as the resistors we installed above.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. SPI Header Ground Connections ===<br />
Next, we will install the jumpers that connect the Big Digit Driver to the SPI ground line. For this we'll use zero-ohm wire jumpers, which look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of four or more. (If you should need additional jumpers beyond those included with the kit, you can use plain wire as a substitute.)<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_030.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing them in locations JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes) and JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board). Here is what they look like when installed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_031.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_090.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
''Please note that locations JP1, JP2, and JP3 are normally left unpopulated.''<br />
<br />
(Aside: Jumpers at JP1-JP3 can be used to bypass the Schmitt-input "buffer" chip. Even though some of our photos do show these installed, please leave JP1-JP3 empty ''unless you really know what you're doing''. If for a good reason you do install jumpers in JP1-JP3, you ''must not'' install the IC in location U10, and instead leave that socket empty.)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Shift Register and Schmitt-input "Buffer" Sockets ===<br />
Next, we will install the sockets for the ICs.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_024.jpg<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint outline? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place). Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_026.jpg<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulator when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_027.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_028.jpg<br />
<br />
Then repeat for the other socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_029.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_033.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_034.jpg<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board. See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_035.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Current Regulators ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 10, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_036.jpg<br />
<br />
Install these in a line just below the transistors, in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matters! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_037.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
This part will look look identical to the current regulators in step 11, except that they will have the number '750L05' on them.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_038.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_039.jpg<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matters! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board). Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_040.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_041.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_042.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label). Don't worry about orientation.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_043.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_044.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Other Capacitors ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_046.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_047.jpg<br />
<br />
These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop them in.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_049.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_048.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_050.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_051.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_052.jpg<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_055.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_054.jpg<br />
<br />
Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_053.jpg<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_057.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_056.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board. Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_060.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_059.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_062.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_061.jpg<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_063.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_064.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_065.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. It is the top chip in this photo:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
You may need to straighten the pins to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
''Orientation matters:'' Notice the half-moon shaped notch on one end of the IC-- on the left end in the photo. That notch must line up with the notch on the IC footprint on the board and socket. Insert the chip firmly and fully into the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_067.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Schmitt-input buffer IC ===<br />
The Schmitt-input buffer IC is the 14 pin chip that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it. It is the bottom chip in this photo.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
Install this chip at location U10. ''Orientation matters:'' Again, the notch on the IC must line up with the notch on the IC footprint on the board and socket. Insert the chip firmly and fully into the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_068.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_069.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_070.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components). The connector faces 'upwards', toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_071.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_072.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 22. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_094.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing an insulator to prevent the Big Digit Driver board from coming on contact with the display and causing a short circuit. We'll also be attaching metal standoffs to the back of the display for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 23. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. Plugging the display into the edge connector should do a pretty good job lining up the mounting holes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_080.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 24. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_081.jpg<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 25. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch (3.2mm) thick nylon washer, 1/2 inch (12.7mm) long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch (19mm) tall threaded standoff. On the bottom corners, pass a screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_091.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 26. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch (1.6mm) thick nylon washer, 7/8 inch (22.2mm) tall threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch (9.5mm) long 6-32 threaded screw. On the top corners, pass a screw through the display board and washer. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_088.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 27. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done with assembly! You're ready to mount it and get started using it! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes. Next you can head over to [[Using_The_Big_Digit_Driver|Using The Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_092.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_083.jpg</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=947Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-16T02:46:02Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|SPI Ground Jumpers/Schmitt Trigger Bypass<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
This document will show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_001.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_002.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one! Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_003.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_004.jpg<br />
<br />
This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board (location J4).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_005.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_006.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder the leads and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_007.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_008.jpg<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_009.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_010.jpg<br />
<br />
All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_012.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_011.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_013.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_014.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_015.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, let's install the 16 ohms (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold) current sense resistors. These come as a segment from a large spool. Just pull them straight out and straighten the leads as needed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_016.jpg<br />
<br />
Installation procedure for these is exactly the same as the resistors above. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board). Here's what they look like when installed:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_017.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_018.jpg<br />
<br />
Install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a line across the middle of the board, right above the resistors we installed in step 4). You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use the last one in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step 5. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
This is what your board should look like now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_020.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_022.jpg<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have a black line wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_021.jpg<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_023.jpg<br />
<br />
Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in! Double check the orientation of your diodes before you solder them.<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes is pretty much the same as the resistors we installed above.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. SPI Header Ground Connections ===<br />
Next, we will install the jumpers that connect the Big Digit Driver to the SPI ground line. For this we'll use zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_030.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing them in locations JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes) and JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board). Here is what they look like when installed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_031.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_090.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Please note that we leave locations JP1, JP2, and JP3 empty!'''<br />
<br />
These locations are the Schmitt trigger bypass jumpers. The Schmitt trigger is used to 'boost' the signals that run down a series of drivers and helps eliminate synchronization issues due to noise and attenuation.<br />
<br />
If, for whatever reason, you don't want to use the Schmitt trigger you will need to install four jumpers in locations JP1, JP2, and JP3. Ninety-nine percent of our users should NOT install these bypass jumpers!<br />
<br />
DO NOT use both the Schmitt trigger and bypass jumpers at the same time! Doing so shouldn't cause any damage, but the behavior of displays down the line will be strange and unpredictable.<br />
<br />
You may note that photos later in this instruction set have these jumpers installed! This is for illustrative purposes only! '''Unless you have a good reason to bypass the Schmitt trigger, do not install these jumpers!'''<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
Next, we will install the sockets for the ICs.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_024.jpg<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint outline? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place). Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_026.jpg<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulator when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_027.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_028.jpg<br />
<br />
Then repeat for the other socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_029.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_033.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_034.jpg<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board. See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_035.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Current Regulators ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 10, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_036.jpg<br />
<br />
Install these in a line just below the transistors, in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matters! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_037.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
This part will look look identical to the current regulators in step 11, except that they will have the number '750L05' on them.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_038.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_039.jpg<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matters! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board). Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_040.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_041.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_042.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label). Don't worry about orientation.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_043.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_044.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Other Capacitors ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_046.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_047.jpg<br />
<br />
These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop them in.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_049.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_048.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_050.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_051.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_052.jpg<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_055.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_054.jpg<br />
<br />
Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_053.jpg<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_057.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_056.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board. Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_060.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_059.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_062.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_061.jpg<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_063.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_064.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_065.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. It is the top chip in this photo:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo)? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_067.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it. It is the bottom chip in this photo.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo above) should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_068.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_069.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_070.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components). The connector faces 'upwards', toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_071.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_072.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 22. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_094.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing an insulator to prevent the Big Digit Driver board from coming on contact with the display and causing a short circuit. We'll also be attaching metal standoffs to the back of the display for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 23. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. Plugging the display into the edge connector should do a pretty good job lining up the mounting holes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_080.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 24. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_081.jpg<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 25. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch (3.2mm) thick nylon washer, 1/2 inch (12.7mm) long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch (19mm) tall threaded standoff. On the bottom corners, pass a screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_091.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 26. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch (1.6mm) thick nylon washer, 7/8 inch (22.2mm) tall threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch (9.5mm) long 6-32 threaded screw. On the top corners, pass a screw through the display board and washer. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_088.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 27. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_092.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_083.jpg</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=946Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-16T02:33:22Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|SPI Ground Jumpers/Schmitt Trigger Bypass<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
This document will show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_001.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_002.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one! Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_003.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_004.jpg<br />
<br />
This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board (location J4).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_005.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_006.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder the leads and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_007.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_008.jpg<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_009.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_010.jpg<br />
<br />
All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_012.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_011.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_013.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_014.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_015.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, let's install the 16 ohms (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold) current sense resistors. These come as a segment from a large spool. Just pull them straight out and straighten the leads as needed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_016.jpg<br />
<br />
Installation procedure for these is exactly the same as the resistors above. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board). Here's what they look like when installed:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_017.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_018.jpg<br />
<br />
Install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a line across the middle of the board, right above the resistors we installed in step 4). You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use the last one in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step 5. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
This is what your board should look like now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_020.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_022.jpg<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have a black line wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_021.jpg<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_023.jpg<br />
<br />
Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in! Double check the orientation of your diodes before you solder them.<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes is pretty much the same as the resistors we installed above.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. SPI Header Ground Connections ===<br />
Next, we will install the jumpers that connect the Big Digit Driver to the SPI ground line. For this we'll use zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_030.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing them in locations JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes) and JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board). Here is what they look like when installed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_031.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_090.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Please note that we leave locations JP1, JP2, and JP3 empty!'''<br />
<br />
These locations are the Schmitt trigger bypass jumpers. The Schmitt trigger is used to 'boost' the signals that run down a series of drivers and helps eliminate synchronization issues due to noise and attenuation.<br />
<br />
If, for whatever reason, you don't want to use the Schmitt trigger you will need to install four jumpers in locations JP1, JP2, and JP3. Ninety-nine percent of our users should NOT install these bypass jumpers!<br />
<br />
DO NOT use both the Schmitt trigger and bypass jumpers at the same time! Doing so shouldn't cause any damage, but the behavior of displays down the line will be strange and unpredictable.<br />
<br />
You may note that photos later in this instruction set have these jumpers installed! This is for illustrative purposes only! '''Unless you have a good reason to bypass the Schmitt trigger, do not install these jumpers!'''<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
Next, we will install the sockets for the ICs.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_024.jpg<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint outline? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place). Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_026.jpg<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulator when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_027.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_028.jpg<br />
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Then repeat for the other socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_029.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_033.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_034.jpg<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board. See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_035.jpg<br />
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You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Current Regulators ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 10, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_036.jpg<br />
<br />
Install these in a line just below the transistors, in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matters! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_037.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
This part will look look identical to the current regulators in step 11, except that they will have the number '750L05' on them.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_038.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_039.jpg<br />
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Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matters! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board). Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_040.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_041.jpg<br />
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<br />
<br />
=== 13. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_042.jpg<br />
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We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label). Don't worry about orientation.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_043.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_044.jpg<br />
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<br />
=== 14. Other Capacitors ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_046.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_047.jpg<br />
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These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop them in.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_049.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_048.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_050.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_051.jpg<br />
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<br />
<br />
=== 16. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_052.jpg<br />
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These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_055.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_054.jpg<br />
<br />
Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_053.jpg<br />
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Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_057.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_056.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board. Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_060.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_059.jpg<br />
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<br />
<br />
=== 18. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_062.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_061.jpg<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_063.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_064.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_065.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. It is the top chip in this photo:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo)? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_067.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it. It is the bottom chip in this photo.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo above) should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_068.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_069.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_070.jpg<br />
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Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components). The connector faces 'upwards', toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_071.jpg<br />
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Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_072.jpg<br />
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<br />
<br />
=== 22. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_079.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing an insulator to prevent the Big Digit Driver board from coming on contact with the display and causing a short circuit. We'll also be attaching metal standoffs to the back of the display for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 23. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. Plugging the display into the edge connector should do a pretty good job lining up the mounting holes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_080.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 24. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_081.jpg<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 25. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch (3.2mm) thick nylon washer, 1/2 inch (12.7mm) long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch (19mm) tall threaded standoff. On the bottom corners, pass a screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_091.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 26. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch (1.6mm) thick nylon washer, 7/8 inch (22.2mm) tall threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch (9.5mm) long 6-32 threaded screw. On the top corners, pass a screw through the display board and washer. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_088.jpg<br />
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<br />
<br />
=== 27. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_082.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_083.jpg</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=945Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-16T00:40:45Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|SPI Ground Jumpers/Schmitt Trigger Bypass<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
This document will show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_001.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_002.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one! Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_003.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_004.jpg<br />
<br />
This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board (location J4).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_005.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_006.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder the leads and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_007.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_008.jpg<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_009.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_010.jpg<br />
<br />
All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_012.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_011.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_013.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_014.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_015.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, let's install the 16 ohms (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold) current sense resistors. These come as a segment from a large spool. Just pull them straight out and straighten the leads as needed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_016.jpg<br />
<br />
Installation procedure for these is exactly the same as the resistors above. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board). Here's what they look like when installed:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_017.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_018.jpg<br />
<br />
Install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a line across the middle of the board, right above the resistors we installed in step 4). You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use the last one in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step 5. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
This is what your board should look like now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_020.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_022.jpg<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have a black line wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_021.jpg<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_023.jpg<br />
<br />
Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in! Double check the orientation of your diodes before you solder them.<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes is pretty much the same as the resistors we installed above.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. SPI Header Ground Connections ===<br />
Next, we will install the jumpers that connect the Big Digit Driver to the SPI ground line. For this we'll use zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_030.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing them in locations JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes) and JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board). Here is what they look like when installed. You can ignore locations J1, J2, and J3 - we won't be using these.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_031.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_090.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
Next, we will install the sockets for the ICs.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_024.jpg<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint outline? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place). Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_026.jpg<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulator when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_027.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_028.jpg<br />
<br />
Then repeat for the other socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_029.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_033.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_034.jpg<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board. See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_035.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Current Regulators ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 10, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_036.jpg<br />
<br />
Install these in a line just below the transistors, in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matters! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_037.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
This part will look look identical to the current regulators in step 11, except that they will have the number '750L05' on them.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_038.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_039.jpg<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matters! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board). Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_040.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_041.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_042.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label). Don't worry about orientation.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_043.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_044.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Other Capacitors ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_046.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_047.jpg<br />
<br />
These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop them in.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_049.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_048.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_050.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_051.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_052.jpg<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_055.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_054.jpg<br />
<br />
Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_053.jpg<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_057.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_056.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board. Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_060.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_059.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_062.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_061.jpg<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_063.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_064.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_065.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. It is the top chip in this photo:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo)? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_067.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it. It is the bottom chip in this photo.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo above) should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_068.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_069.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_070.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components). The connector faces 'upwards', toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_071.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_072.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 22. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_079.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing an insulator to prevent the Big Digit Driver board from coming on contact with the display and causing a short circuit. We'll also be attaching metal standoffs to the back of the display for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 23. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. Plugging the display into the edge connector should do a pretty good job lining up the mounting holes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_080.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 24. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_081.jpg<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 25. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch (3.2mm) thick nylon washer, 1/2 inch (12.7mm) long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch (19mm) tall threaded standoff. On the bottom corners, pass a screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_091.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 26. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch (1.6mm) thick nylon washer, 7/8 inch (22.2mm) tall threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch (9.5mm) long 6-32 threaded screw. On the top corners, pass a screw through the display board and washer. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_088.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 27. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_082.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_083.jpg</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=944Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-16T00:38:33Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|Data Out Schmitt Trigger Bypass/SPI Ground Jumpers<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
This document will show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_001.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_002.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one! Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_003.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_004.jpg<br />
<br />
This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board (location J4).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_005.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_006.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder the leads and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_007.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_008.jpg<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_009.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_010.jpg<br />
<br />
All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_012.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_011.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_013.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_014.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_015.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, let's install the 16 ohms (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold) current sense resistors. These come as a segment from a large spool. Just pull them straight out and straighten the leads as needed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_016.jpg<br />
<br />
Installation procedure for these is exactly the same as the resistors above. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board). Here's what they look like when installed:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_017.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_018.jpg<br />
<br />
Install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a line across the middle of the board, right above the resistors we installed in step 4). You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use the last one in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step 5. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
This is what your board should look like now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_020.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_022.jpg<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have a black line wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_021.jpg<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_023.jpg<br />
<br />
Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in! Double check the orientation of your diodes before you solder them.<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes is pretty much the same as the resistors we installed above.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. SPI Header Ground Connections ===<br />
Next, we will install the jumpers that connect the Big Digit Driver to the SPI ground line. For this we'll use zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_030.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing them in locations JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes) and JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board, below the Schmitt trigger bypass). Here is what they look like when installed. You can ignore locations J1, J2, and J3 - we won't be using these.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_031.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_090.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
Next, we will install the sockets for the ICs.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_024.jpg<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint outline? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place). Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_026.jpg<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulator when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_027.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_028.jpg<br />
<br />
Then repeat for the other socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_029.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_033.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_034.jpg<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board. See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_035.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Current Regulators ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 10, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_036.jpg<br />
<br />
Install these in a line just below the transistors, in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matters! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_037.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
This part will look look identical to the current regulators in step 11, except that they will have the number '750L05' on them.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_038.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_039.jpg<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matters! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board). Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_040.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_041.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_042.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label). Don't worry about orientation.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_043.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_044.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Other Capacitors ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_046.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_047.jpg<br />
<br />
These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop them in.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_049.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_048.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_050.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_051.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_052.jpg<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_055.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_054.jpg<br />
<br />
Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_053.jpg<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_057.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_056.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board. Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_060.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_059.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_062.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_061.jpg<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_063.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_064.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_065.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. It is the top chip in this photo:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo)? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_067.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it. It is the bottom chip in this photo.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo above) should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_068.jpg<br />
<br />
Note: The behavior of a Big Digit Driver board with both a Schmitt trigger and Schmitt trigger bypass installed is undefined! Do not have both installed at the same time. Nothing will be damaged but you'll see some really weird results.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_069.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_070.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components). The connector faces 'upwards', toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_071.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_072.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 22. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_079.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing an insulator to prevent the Big Digit Driver board from coming on contact with the display and causing a short circuit. We'll also be attaching metal standoffs to the back of the display for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 23. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. Plugging the display into the edge connector should do a pretty good job lining up the mounting holes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_080.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 24. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_081.jpg<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 25. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch (3.2mm) thick nylon washer, 1/2 inch (12.7mm) long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch (19mm) tall threaded standoff. On the bottom corners, pass a screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_091.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 26. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch (1.6mm) thick nylon washer, 7/8 inch (22.2mm) tall threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch (9.5mm) long 6-32 threaded screw. On the top corners, pass a screw through the display board and washer. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_088.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 27. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_082.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_083.jpg</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Using_The_Big_Digit_Driver&diff=941Using The Big Digit Driver2011-06-15T23:32:25Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page covers basic usage of the Evil Mad Science [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]] (BDD).<br />
<br />
<br />
== Power == <br />
A single 12 inch LED display (as sold by Evil Mad Science), when attached to a BDD, uses about 0.7 amps at 36 volts DC. Do not exceed 40 volts when using the BDD.<br />
<br />
The BDD has two methods for accepting power: a 2.1mm barrel jack (center positive), and a pair of screw terminals. The barrel jack has a power rating suitable only for powering a single digit and should NOT be used for powering a series of digits. The two screw terminals on the board are for attaching a power supply in permanent installations and for powering a series of digits in a 'daisy chain' configuration. Do not exceed five amps of current through any given board.<br />
<br />
Do not connect multiple power supplies to one BBD. If you are using a large number of digit in series, the series should be split into group of digits, each with their own power supply. Do not wire power supplies in parallel! This may damage your BDD's and/or the power supplies and/or you.<br />
<br />
For powering a single display and BDD in a permanent installation Evil Mad Science recommends using a weather-proofed power supply like the [http://www.meanwell.com/search/lpv-35/ Meanwell LPV-35-36].<br />
<br />
For power a large number of displays and BDDs, Evil Mad Science recommends using a weather-proofed power supply like the [http://www.meanwell.com/search/hlg-240/ Meanwell HLG-240-36].<br />
<br />
'''Note: Evil Mad Science LLC does not provide support for any power supply we do not sell. We recommend that users acquire the services of a professional electrician when installing or maintaining custom power wiring.'''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Communication ==<br />
The Big Digit Driver (BDD) was designed with the [http://arduino.cc/ Arduino] platform in mind and thus has a 6 pin (2x3 DIL) header that matches the SPI header found on most Arduino boards. The Arduino can manipulate the pins connected to its SPI header like any of its other pins, and the header makes a handy attachment point. To connect an Arduino to a BDD, use a suitable cable to connect the SPI header on the Arduino to the SPI header on the BDD. Take care to note the placement of pin one on both the Arduino and BDD. The BDD marks pin one on each of its SPI headers with a large triangle.<br />
<br />
The BDD contains a simple eight bit shift register hooked up to the header. Data is shifted in by setting the MOSI pin high or low, and then pulsing the SCK pin to clock the data in. The shift register we use (a 74595) also has a latch between the shift register and the outputs. This allows us to change the contents of the shift register but not 'display' that data until we've finished clocking in all the data. A pulse the MISO pin will copy data to the latches and thus the outputs.<br />
<br />
Here is an overview of the various signals used by the BDD:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|ATMega IC Pin<br />
|ATMega Port<br />
|Arduino Pin<br />
|SPI Symbol<br />
|BDD Shift Register Function<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|PB5<br />
|Digital 13<br />
|SCK<br />
|Register Clock<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|PB4<br />
|Digital 12<br />
|MISO<br />
|Latch Clock<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|PB3<br />
|Digital 11<br />
|MOSI<br />
|Serial Data In<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Data Format ==<br />
The display this driver was designed to work with has eight segments: seven segments to display digits zero through nine, and one segment for a decimal point. Each bit in the shift register controls a segment:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|Bit<br />
|7<br />
|6<br />
|5<br />
|4<br />
|3<br />
|2<br />
|1<br />
|0<br />
|----<br />
|Segment<br />
|DP<br />
|G<br />
|F<br />
|E<br />
|D<br />
|C<br />
|B<br />
|A<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/howto/segments.png<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The following table provides a list of characters and their associated bit pattern:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|Symbol<br />
|Decimal<br />
|Hex<br />
|Binary<br />
|----<br />
|0<br />
|63<br />
|0x3F<br />
|00111111<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|6<br />
|0x06<br />
|00000110<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|91<br />
|0x5B<br />
|01011011<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|79<br />
|0x4F<br />
|01001111<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|102<br />
|0x66<br />
|01100110<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|109<br />
|0x6D<br />
|01101101<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|125<br />
|0x7D<br />
|01111101<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|7<br />
|0x07<br />
|00000111<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|127<br />
|0x7F<br />
|01111111<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|111<br />
|0x6F<br />
|01101111<br />
|----<br />
|A<br />
|119<br />
|0x77<br />
|01110111<br />
|----<br />
|b<br />
|124<br />
|0x7C<br />
|01111100<br />
|----<br />
|C<br />
|57<br />
|0x39<br />
|00111001<br />
|----<br />
|d<br />
|94<br />
|0x5E<br />
|01011110<br />
|----<br />
|E<br />
|121<br />
|0x79<br />
|01111001<br />
|----<br />
|F<br />
|113<br />
|0x71<br />
|01110001<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Driving A Series Of Digits ==<br />
The BDD is designed to be used to drive a large number of digits from a single controller (Arduino or otherwise). As mentioned above, the BDD can carry up to five amps, allowing up to seven displays in series from a single power supply.<br />
To propagate data and clock signals down a series of displays BDD boards can be 'daisy chained' by connecting the 'output' SPI header of a display to the 'input' SPI header of the next display in the series. When looking at the silkscreen side of a BDD board (with the text right way up) the input SPI header is on the left-hand side. The output SPI header is on the right-hand side. Ensure that you have the data cables attached correctly. On the BDD, pin one of both SPI headers is marked with a large triangle. We recommend using the Schmitt trigger included with the BDD kit, even for short runs of digits. Refer to the [[Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions#21._Optional:_Insert_Schmitt_Trigger|assembly instructions]] for more information.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Code Examples ==<br />
=== Arduinio ===<br />
==== Display 123456 ====<br />
This block of code will display the string '123456' on a series of six displays.<br />
<nowiki>//This sketch will push the string '123456' out to a series of Big Digit Drivers.<br />
<br />
void setup() { <br />
pinMode(13, OUTPUT); //SH_CP/SCK Shift register clock<br />
pinMode(12, OUTPUT); //SR_CP/MISO Latch Clock<br />
pinMode(11, OUTPUT); //DS/MOSI Serial data in<br />
<br />
//Blank out the register<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x00);<br />
digitalWrite(12, HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(12, LOW);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void loop() {<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x06); //'1'; segments B and C, or b00000110<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x5B); //'2'; segments A, B, D, E, G or b01011011<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x4F); //'3'; segments A, B, C, D, G, or b01001111<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x66); //'4'; segments B, C, F, G, or b01100110<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x6D); //'5'; segments A, C, D, F, G, or b01101101<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x7D); //'6'; segments A, C, D, E, F, G, or b01111101<br />
<br />
//Pulse the latch clock to load the output<br />
digitalWrite(12, HIGH); <br />
digitalWrite(12, LOW);<br />
<br />
delay(1000);<br />
<br />
}//End loop</nowiki><br />
<br />
==== Test Pattern ====<br />
This block of code will turn half of the segments on, (other) half of the segments on, turn on all the segments, and then turn all segment off. Loops indefinitely. If used on a series of digits, you should see each stage of the pattern work its way down the line.<br />
<nowiki>//This sketch cycles through four states (half on, other half on, all on, all off) to test all segments of display.<br />
<br />
byte data = 0x00;<br />
int state = 0;<br />
<br />
<br />
void segout(byte data) { <br />
//Shift data out to shift register<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, data);<br />
<br />
//Pulse the latch clock to load the output<br />
digitalWrite(12, HIGH); <br />
digitalWrite(12, LOW);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void setup() { <br />
pinMode(13, OUTPUT); //SH_CP/SCK Shift register clock<br />
pinMode(12, OUTPUT); //SR_CP/MISO Latch Clock<br />
pinMode(11, OUTPUT); //DS/MOSI Serial data in<br />
<br />
//Blank out the register<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x00);<br />
digitalWrite(12, HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(12, LOW);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void loop() {<br />
switch (state) {<br />
case 0:<br />
data = 0xAA; //b10101010<br />
state = 1;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
case 1:<br />
data = 0x55; //b01010101<br />
state = 2;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
case 2:<br />
data = 0xFF; //b11111111<br />
state=3;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
case 3:<br />
data = 0x00; //b00000000<br />
state=0;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
}//End switch<br />
<br />
//Write the data to the shift register<br />
segout(data);<br />
<br />
delay(2000);<br />
<br />
}//End loop</nowiki></div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Using_The_Big_Digit_Driver&diff=940Using The Big Digit Driver2011-06-15T23:31:22Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page covers basic usage of the Evil Mad Science [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]] (BDD).<br />
<br />
<br />
== Power == <br />
A single 12 inch LED display (as sold by Evil Mad Science), when attached to a BDD, uses about 0.7 amps at 36 volts DC. Do not exceed 40 volts when using the BDD.<br />
<br />
The BDD has two methods for accepting power: a 2.1mm barrel jack (center positive), and a pair of screw terminals. The barrel jack has a power rating suitable only for powering a single digit and should NOT be used for powering a series of digits. The two screw terminals on the board are for attaching a power supply in permanent installations and for powering a series of digits in a 'daisy chain' configuration. Do not exceed five amps of current through any given board.<br />
<br />
Do not connect multiple power supplies to one BBD. If you are using a large number of digit in series, the series should be split into group of digits, each with their own power supply. Do not wire power supplies in parallel! This may damage your BDD's and/or the power supplies and/or you.<br />
<br />
For powering a single display and BDD in a permanent installation Evil Mad Science recommends using a weather-proofed power supply like the [http://www.meanwell.com/search/lpv-35/ Meanwell LPV-35-36].<br />
<br />
For power a large number of displays and BDDs, Evil Mad Science recommends using a weather-proofed power supply like the [http://www.meanwell.com/search/hlg-240/ Meanwell HLG-240-36].<br />
<br />
'''Note: Evil Mad Science LLC does not provide support for any power supply we do not sell. We recommend that users acquire the services of a professional electrician when installing or maintaining custom power wiring.'''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Communication ==<br />
The Big Digit Driver (BDD) was designed with the [http://arduino.cc/ Arduino] platform in mind and thus has a 6 pin (2x3 DIL) header that matches the SPI header found on most Arduino boards. The Arduino can manipulate the pins connected to its SPI header like any of its other pins, and the header makes a handy attachment point. To connect an Arduino to a BDD, use a suitable cable to connect the SPI header on the Arduino to the SPI header on the BDD. Take care to note the placement of pin one on both the Arduino and BDD. The BDD marks pin one on each of its SPI headers with a large triangle.<br />
<br />
The BDD contains a simple eight bit shift register hooked up to the header. Data is shifted in by setting the MOSI pin high or low, and then pulsing the SCK pin to clock the data in. The shift register we use (a 74595) also has a latch between the shift register and the outputs. This allows us to change the contents of the shift register but not 'display' that data until we've finished clocking in all the data. A pulse the MISO pin will copy data to the latches and thus the outputs.<br />
<br />
Here is an overview of the various signals used by the BDD:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|ATMega IC Pin<br />
|ATMega Port<br />
|Arduino Pin<br />
|SPI Symbol<br />
|BDD Shift Register Function<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|PB5<br />
|Digital 13<br />
|SCK<br />
|Register Clock<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|PB4<br />
|Digital 12<br />
|MISO<br />
|Latch Clock<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|PB3<br />
|Digital 11<br />
|MOSI<br />
|Serial Data In<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Data Format ==<br />
The display this driver was designed to work with has eight segments: seven segments to display digits zero through nine, and one segment for a decimal point. Each bit in the shift register controls a segment:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|Bit<br />
|7<br />
|6<br />
|5<br />
|4<br />
|3<br />
|2<br />
|1<br />
|0<br />
|----<br />
|Segment<br />
|DP<br />
|G<br />
|F<br />
|E<br />
|D<br />
|C<br />
|B<br />
|A<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/howto/segments.png<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The following table provides a list of characters and their associated bit pattern:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|Symbol<br />
|Decimal<br />
|Hex<br />
|Binary<br />
|----<br />
|0<br />
|63<br />
|0x3F<br />
|00111111<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|6<br />
|0x06<br />
|00000110<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|91<br />
|0x5B<br />
|01011011<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|79<br />
|0x4F<br />
|01001111<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|102<br />
|0x66<br />
|01100110<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|109<br />
|0x6D<br />
|01101101<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|125<br />
|0x7D<br />
|01111101<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|7<br />
|0x07<br />
|00000111<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|127<br />
|0x7F<br />
|01111111<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|111<br />
|0x6F<br />
|01101111<br />
|----<br />
|A<br />
|119<br />
|0x77<br />
|01110111<br />
|----<br />
|b<br />
|124<br />
|0x7C<br />
|01111100<br />
|----<br />
|C<br />
|57<br />
|0x39<br />
|00111001<br />
|----<br />
|d<br />
|94<br />
|0x5E<br />
|01011110<br />
|----<br />
|E<br />
|121<br />
|0x79<br />
|01111001<br />
|----<br />
|F<br />
|113<br />
|0x71<br />
|01110001<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Driving A Series Of Digits ==<br />
The BDD is designed to be used to drive a large number of digits from a single controller (Arduino or otherwise). As mentioned above, the BDD can carry up to five amps, allowing up to seven displays in series from a single power supply.<br />
To propagate data and clock signals down a series of displays BDD boards can be 'daisy chained' by connecting the 'output' SPI header of a display to the 'input' SPI header of the next display in the series. When looking at the silkscreen side of a BDD board (with the text right way up) the input SPI header is on the left-hand side. The output SPI header is on the right-hand side. Ensure that you have the data cables attached correctly. On the BDD, pin one of both SPI headers is marked with a large triangle. We recommend using the Schmitt trigger included with the BDD kit, even for short runs of digits. Refer to the [[Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions#21._Optional:_Insert_Schmitt_Trigger|assembly instructions]] for more information.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Code Examples ==<br />
=== Arduinio ===<br />
==== Push 123456 ====<br />
This block of code will display the string '123456' on a series of six displays.<br />
<nowiki>//This sketch will push the string '123456' out to a series of Big Digit Drivers.<br />
<br />
void setup() { <br />
pinMode(13, OUTPUT); //SH_CP/SCK Shift register clock<br />
pinMode(12, OUTPUT); //SR_CP/MISO Latch Clock<br />
pinMode(11, OUTPUT); //DS/MOSI Serial data in<br />
<br />
//Blank out the register<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x00);<br />
digitalWrite(12, HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(12, LOW);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void loop() {<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x06); //'1'; segments B and C, or b00000110<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x5B); //'2'; segments A, B, D, E, G or b01011011<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x4F); //'3'; segments A, B, C, D, G, or b01001111<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x66); //'4'; segments B, C, F, G, or b01100110<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x6D); //'5'; segments A, C, D, F, G, or b01101101<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x7D); //'6'; segments A, C, D, E, F, G, or b01111101<br />
<br />
//Pulse the latch clock to load the output<br />
digitalWrite(12, HIGH); <br />
digitalWrite(12, LOW);<br />
<br />
delay(1000);<br />
<br />
}//End loop</nowiki><br />
==== Test Pattern ====<br />
This block of code will turn half of the segments on, (other) half of the segments on, turn on all the segments, and then turn all segment off. Loops indefinitely. If used on a series of digits, you should see each stage of the pattern work its way down the line.<br />
<nowiki>//This sketch cycles through four states (half on, other half on, all on, all off) to test all segments of display.<br />
<br />
byte data = 0x00;<br />
int state = 0;<br />
<br />
<br />
void segout(byte data) { <br />
//Shift data out to shift register<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, data);<br />
<br />
//Pulse the latch clock to load the output<br />
digitalWrite(12, HIGH); <br />
digitalWrite(12, LOW);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void setup() { <br />
pinMode(13, OUTPUT); //SH_CP/SCK Shift register clock<br />
pinMode(12, OUTPUT); //SR_CP/MISO Latch Clock<br />
pinMode(11, OUTPUT); //DS/MOSI Serial data in<br />
<br />
//Blank out the register<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x00);<br />
digitalWrite(12, HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(12, LOW);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void loop() {<br />
switch (state) {<br />
case 0:<br />
data = 0xAA; //b10101010<br />
state = 1;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
case 1:<br />
data = 0x55; //b01010101<br />
state = 2;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
case 2:<br />
data = 0xFF; //b11111111<br />
state=3;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
case 3:<br />
data = 0x00; //b00000000<br />
state=0;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
}//End switch<br />
<br />
//Write the data to the shift register<br />
segout(data);<br />
<br />
delay(2000);<br />
<br />
}//End loop</nowiki></div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=938Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-15T23:21:07Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|Data Out Schmitt Trigger Bypass/SPI Ground Jumpers<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
This document will show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_001.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_002.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one! Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_003.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_004.jpg<br />
<br />
This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board (location J4).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_005.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_006.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder the leads and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_007.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_008.jpg<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_009.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_010.jpg<br />
<br />
All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_012.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_011.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_013.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_014.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_015.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, let's install the 16 ohms (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold) current sense resistors. These come as a segment from a large spool. Just pull them straight out and straighten the leads as needed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_016.jpg<br />
<br />
Installation procedure for these is exactly the same as the resistors above. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board). Here's what they look like when installed:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_017.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_018.jpg<br />
<br />
Install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a line across the middle of the board, right above the resistors we installed in step 4). You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use the last one in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step 5. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
This is what your board should look like now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_020.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_022.jpg<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have a black line wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_021.jpg<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_023.jpg<br />
<br />
Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in! Double check the orientation of your diodes before you solder them.<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes is pretty much the same as the resistors we installed above.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. SPI Header Ground Connections ===<br />
Next, we will install the jumpers that connect the Big Digit Driver to the SPI ground line. For this we'll use zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_030.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing them in locations JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes) and JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board, below the Schmitt trigger bypass). Here is what they look like when installed. You can ignore locations J1, J2, and J3 - we won't be using these.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_031.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_090.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
Next, we will install the sockets for the ICs.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_024.jpg<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint outline? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place). Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_026.jpg<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulator when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_027.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_028.jpg<br />
<br />
Then repeat for the other socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_029.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_033.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_034.jpg<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board. See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_035.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Current Regulators ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 10, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_036.jpg<br />
<br />
Install these in a line just below the transistors, in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matter! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_037.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
This part will look look identical to the current regulators in step 11, except that they will have the number '750L05' on them.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_038.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_039.jpg<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matters! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board). Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_040.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_041.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_042.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label). Don't worry about orientation.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_043.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_044.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Other Capacitors ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_046.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_047.jpg<br />
<br />
These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop them in.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_049.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_048.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_050.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_051.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_052.jpg<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_055.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_054.jpg<br />
<br />
Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_053.jpg<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_057.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_056.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board. Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_060.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_059.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_062.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_061.jpg<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_063.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_064.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_065.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. It is the top chip in this photo:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo)? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_067.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it. It is the bottom chip in this photo.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo above) should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_068.jpg<br />
<br />
Note: The behavior of a Big Digit Driver board with both a Schmitt trigger and Schmitt trigger bypass installed is undefined! Do not have both installed at the same time. Nothing will be damaged but you'll see some really weird results.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_069.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_070.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components). The connector faces 'upwards', toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_071.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_072.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 22. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_079.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing an insulator to prevent the Big Digit Driver board from coming on contact with the display and causing a short circuit. We'll also be attaching metal standoffs to the back of the display for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 23. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. Plugging the display into the edge connector should do a pretty good job lining up the mounting holes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_080.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 24. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_081.jpg<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 25. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch (3.2mm) thick nylon washer, 1/2 inch (12.7mm) long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch (19mm) tall threaded standoff. On the bottom corners, pass a screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_091.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 26. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch (1.6mm) thick nylon washer, 7/8 inch (22.2mm) tall threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch (9.5mm) long 6-32 threaded screw. On the top corners, pass a screw through the display board and washer. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_088.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 27. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_082.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_083.jpg</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=937Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-15T23:09:50Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|Data Out Schmitt Trigger Bypass/SPI Ground Jumpers<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
This document will show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_001.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_002.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one! Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_003.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_004.jpg<br />
<br />
This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board (location J4).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_005.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_006.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder the leads and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_007.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_008.jpg<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_009.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_010.jpg<br />
<br />
All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_012.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_011.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_013.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_014.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_015.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, let's install the 16 ohms (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold) current sense resistors. These come as a segment from a large spool. Just pull them straight out and straighten the leads as needed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_016.jpg<br />
<br />
Installation procedure for these is exactly the same as the resistors above. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board). Here's what they look like when installed:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_017.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_018.jpg<br />
<br />
Install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a line across the middle of the board, right above the resistors we installed in step 4). You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use the last one in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step 5. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
This is what your board should look like now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_020.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_022.jpg<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have a black line wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_021.jpg<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_023.jpg<br />
<br />
Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in! Double check the orientation of your diodes before you solder them.<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes is pretty much the same as the resistors we installed above.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. SPI Header Ground Connections ===<br />
Next, we will install the jumpers that connect the Big Digit Driver to the SPI ground line. For this we'll use zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_030.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing them in locations JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes) and JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board, below the Schmitt trigger bypass). Here is what they look like when installed. You can ignore locations J1, J2, and J3 - we won't be using these.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_031.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_090.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
Next, we will install the sockets for the ICs.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_024.jpg<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint outline? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place). Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_026.jpg<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulator when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_027.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_028.jpg<br />
<br />
Then repeat for the other socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_029.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_033.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_034.jpg<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board. See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_035.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Current Regulators ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 10, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_036.jpg<br />
<br />
Install these in a line just below the transistors, in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matter! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_037.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
This part will look look identical to the current regulators in step 11, except that they will have the number '750L05' on them.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_038.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_039.jpg<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matters! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board). Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_040.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_041.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_042.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label). Don't worry about orientation.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_043.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_044.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Other Capacitors ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_046.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_047.jpg<br />
<br />
These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop them in.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_049.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_048.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_050.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_051.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_052.jpg<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_055.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_054.jpg<br />
<br />
Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_053.jpg<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_057.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_056.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board. Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_060.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_059.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_062.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_061.jpg<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_063.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_064.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_065.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. It is the top chip in this photo:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo)? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_067.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it. It is the bottom chip in this photo.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo above) should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_068.jpg<br />
<br />
Note: The behavior of a Big Digit Driver board with both a Schmitt trigger and Schmitt trigger bypass installed is undefined! Do not have both installed at the same time. Nothing will be damaged but you'll see some really weird results.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_069.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_070.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components). The connector faces 'upwards', toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_071.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_072.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 22. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_079.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing an insulator to prevent the Big Digit Driver board from coming on contact with the display and causing a short circuit. We'll also be attaching metal standoffs to the back of the display for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 23. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. Plugging the display into the edge connector should do a pretty good job lining up the mounting holes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_080.jpg<br />
<br />
=== 24. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_081.jpg<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 25. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch (3.2mm) thick nylon washer, 1/2 inch (12.7mm) long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch (19mm) tall threaded standoff. On the bottom corners, pass a screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_091.jpg<br />
<br />
=== 26. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch (1.6mm) thick nylon washer, 7/8 inch (22.2mm) tall threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch (9.5mm) long 6-32 threaded screw. On the top corners, pass a screw through the display board and washer. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_088.jpg<br />
<br />
=== 27. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_082.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_083.jpg</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=936Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-15T23:04:57Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|Data Out Schmitt Trigger Bypass/SPI Ground Jumpers<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
This document will show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_001.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_002.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one! Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_003.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_004.jpg<br />
<br />
This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board (location J4).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_005.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_006.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder the leads and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_007.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_008.jpg<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_009.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_010.jpg<br />
<br />
All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_012.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_011.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_013.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_014.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_015.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, let's install the 16 ohms (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold) current sense resistors. These come as a segment from a large spool. Just pull them straight out and straighten the leads as needed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_016.jpg<br />
<br />
Installation procedure for these is exactly the same as the resistors above. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board). Here's what they look like when installed:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_017.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_018.jpg<br />
<br />
Install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a line across the middle of the board, right above the resistors we installed in step 4). You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use the last one in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step 5. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
This is what your board should look like now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_020.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_022.jpg<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have a black line wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_021.jpg<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_023.jpg<br />
<br />
Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in! Double check the orientation of your diodes before you solder them.<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes is pretty much the same as the resistors we installed above.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. SPI Header Ground Connections ===<br />
Next, we will install the jumpers that connect the Big Digit Driver to the SPI ground line. For this we'll use zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_030.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing them in locations JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes) and JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board, below the Schmitt trigger bypass). Here is what they look like when installed. You can ignore locations J1, J2, and J3 - we won't be using these.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_031.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_090.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
Next, we will install the sockets for the ICs.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_024.jpg<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint outline? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place). Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_026.jpg<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulator when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_027.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_028.jpg<br />
<br />
Then repeat for the other socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_029.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_033.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_034.jpg<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board. See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_035.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Current Regulators ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 10, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_036.jpg<br />
<br />
Install these in a line just below the transistors, in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matter! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_037.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
This part will look look identical to the current regulators in step 11, except that they will have the number '750L05' on them.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_038.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_039.jpg<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matters! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board). Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_040.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_041.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_042.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label). Don't worry about orientation.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_043.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_044.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Other Capacitors ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_046.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_047.jpg<br />
<br />
These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop them in.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_049.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_048.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_050.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_051.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_052.jpg<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_055.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_054.jpg<br />
<br />
Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_053.jpg<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_057.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_056.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board. Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_060.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_059.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_062.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_061.jpg<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_063.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_064.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_065.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. It is the top chip in this photo:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo)? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_067.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it. It is the bottom chip in this photo.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo above) should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_068.jpg<br />
<br />
Note: The behavior of a Big Digit Driver board with both a Schmitt trigger and Schmitt trigger bypass installed is undefined! Do not have both installed at the same time. Nothing will be damaged but you'll see some really weird results.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_069.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_070.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components). The connector faces 'upwards', toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_071.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_072.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 22. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_079.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing an insulator to prevent the Big Digit Driver board from coming on contact with the display and causing a short circuit. We'll also be attaching metal standoffs to the back of the display for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 23. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. Plugging the display into the edge connector should do a pretty good job lining up the mounting holes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_080.jpg<br />
<br />
=== 24. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_081.jpg<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 25. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch (3.2mm) thick nylon washer, 1/2 inch (12.7mm) long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch (19mm) tall threaded standoff. On the bottom corners, pass a screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_091.jpg<br />
<br />
=== 26. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch (1.6mm) thick nylon washer, 7/8 inch (22.2mm) tall threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch (9.5mm) long 6-32 threaded screw. On the top corners, pass a screw through the display board and washer. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_088.jpg<br />
<br />
=== 27. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_082.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_083.jpg</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=935Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-15T22:57:51Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|Data Out Schmitt Trigger Bypass/SPI Ground Jumpers<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
This document will show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_001.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_002.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one! Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_003.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_004.jpg<br />
<br />
This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board (location J4).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_005.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_006.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder the leads and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_007.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_008.jpg<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_009.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_010.jpg<br />
<br />
All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_012.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_011.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_013.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_014.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_015.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, let's install the 16 ohms (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold) current sense resistors. These come as a segment from a large spool. Just pull them straight out and straighten the leads as needed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_016.jpg<br />
<br />
Installation procedure for these is exactly the same as the resistors above. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board). Here's what they look like when installed:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_017.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_018.jpg<br />
<br />
Install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a line across the middle of the board, right above the resistors we installed in step 4). You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use the last one in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step 5. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
This is what your board should look like now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_020.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_022.jpg<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have a black line wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_021.jpg<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_023.jpg<br />
<br />
Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in! Double check the orientation of your diodes before you solder them.<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes is pretty much the same as the resistors we installed above.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. SPI Header Ground Connections ===<br />
Next, we will install the jumpers that connect the Big Digit Driver to the SPI ground line. For this we'll use zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_030.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing them in locations JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes) and JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board, below the Schmitt trigger bypass). Here is what they look like when installed. Note: This board also has optional jumpers installed in locations J1, J2, and J3 - you can safely ignore these.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_031.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_089.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
Next, we will install the sockets for the ICs.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_024.jpg<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint outline? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place). Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_026.jpg<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulator when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_027.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_028.jpg<br />
<br />
Then repeat for the other socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_029.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_033.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_034.jpg<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board. See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_035.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Current Regulators ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 10, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_036.jpg<br />
<br />
Install these in a line just below the transistors, in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matter! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_037.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
This part will look look identical to the current regulators in step 11, except that they will have the number '750L05' on them.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_038.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_039.jpg<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matters! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board). Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_040.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_041.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_042.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label). Don't worry about orientation.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_043.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_044.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Other Capacitors ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_046.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_047.jpg<br />
<br />
These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop them in.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_049.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_048.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_050.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_051.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_052.jpg<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_055.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_054.jpg<br />
<br />
Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_053.jpg<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_057.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_056.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board. Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_060.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_059.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_062.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_061.jpg<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_063.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_064.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_065.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. It is the top chip in this photo:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo)? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_067.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it. It is the bottom chip in this photo.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo above) should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_068.jpg<br />
<br />
Note: The behavior of a Big Digit Driver board with both a Schmitt trigger and Schmitt trigger bypass installed is undefined! Do not have both installed at the same time. Nothing will be damaged but you'll see some really weird results.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_069.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_070.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components). The connector faces 'upwards', toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_071.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_072.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 22. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_079.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing an insulator to prevent the Big Digit Driver board from coming on contact with the display and causing a short circuit. We'll also be attaching metal standoffs to the back of the display for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 23. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. Plugging the display into the edge connector should do a pretty good job lining up the mounting holes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_080.jpg<br />
<br />
=== 24. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_081.jpg<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 25. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch (3.2mm) thick nylon washer, 1/2 inch (12.7mm) long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch (19mm) tall threaded standoff. The washer goes between the display and the driver board, either on top of or under the Delrin insulator (your choice). On the bottom corners, pass a screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_091.jpg<br />
<br />
=== 26. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch (1.6mm) thick nylon washer, 7/8 inch (22.2mm) tall threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch (9.5mm) long 6-32 threaded screw. On the top corners, pass a screw through the display board and washer. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_088.jpg<br />
<br />
=== 27. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_082.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_083.jpg</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=934Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-15T21:47:04Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|Data Out Schmitt Trigger Bypass/SPI Ground Jumpers<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
This document will show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_001.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_002.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one! Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_003.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_004.jpg<br />
<br />
This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board (location J4).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_005.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_006.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder the leads and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_007.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_008.jpg<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_009.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_010.jpg<br />
<br />
All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_012.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_011.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_013.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_014.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_015.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, let's install the 16 ohms (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold) current sense resistors. These come as a segment from a large spool. Just pull them straight out and straighten the leads as needed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_016.jpg<br />
<br />
Installation procedure for these is exactly the same as the resistors above. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board). Here's what they look like when installed:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_017.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_018.jpg<br />
<br />
Install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a line across the middle of the board, right above the resistors we installed in step 4). You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use the last one in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step 5. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
This is what your board should look like now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_020.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_022.jpg<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have a black line wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_021.jpg<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_023.jpg<br />
<br />
Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in! Double check the orientation of your diodes before you solder them.<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes is pretty much the same as the resistors we installed above.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. SPI Header Ground Connections ===<br />
Next, we will install the jumpers that connect the Big Digit Driver to the SPI ground line. For this we'll use zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_030.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing them in locations JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes) and JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board, below the Schmitt trigger bypass). Here is what they look like when installed. Note: This board also has optional jumpers installed in locations J1, J2, and J3 - you can safely ignore these.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_031.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_032.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
Next, we will install the sockets for the ICs.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_024.jpg<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint outline? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place). Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_026.jpg<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulator when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_027.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_028.jpg<br />
<br />
Then repeat for the other socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_029.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_033.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_034.jpg<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board. See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_035.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Current Regulators ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 10, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_036.jpg<br />
<br />
Install these in a line just below the transistors, in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matter! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_037.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
This part will look look identical to the current regulators in step 11, except that they will have the number '750L05' on them.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_038.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_039.jpg<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matters! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board). Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_040.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_041.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_042.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label). Don't worry about orientation.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_043.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_044.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Other Capacitors ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_046.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_047.jpg<br />
<br />
These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop them in.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_049.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_048.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_050.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_051.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_052.jpg<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_055.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_054.jpg<br />
<br />
Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_053.jpg<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_057.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_056.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board. Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_060.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_059.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_062.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_061.jpg<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_063.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_064.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_065.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. It is the top chip in this photo:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo)? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_067.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Optional: Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
If you didn't install the Schmitt trigger bypass jumpers in step 8 you should install the Schmitt trigger at this point.<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it. It is the bottom chip in this photo.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo above) should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_068.jpg<br />
<br />
Note: The behavior of a Big Digit Driver board with both a Schmitt trigger and Schmitt trigger bypass installed is undefined! Do not have both installed at the same time. Nothing will be damaged but you'll see some really weird results.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_069.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_070.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components). The connector faces 'upwards', toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_071.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_072.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 22. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_079.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing an insulator to prevent the Big Digit Driver board from coming on contact with the display and causing a short circuit. We'll also be attaching metal standoffs to the back of the display for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 23. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. Plugging the display into the edge connector should do a pretty good job lining up the mounting holes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_080.jpg<br />
<br />
=== 24. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_081.jpg<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 25. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch (3.2mm) thick nylon washer, 1/2 inch (12.7mm) long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch (19mm) tall threaded standoff. The washer goes between the display and the driver board, either on top of or under the Delrin insulator (your choice). On the bottom corners, pass a screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 26. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch (1.6mm) thick nylon washer, 7/8 inch (22.2mm) tall threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch (9.5mm) long 6-32 threaded screw. On the top corners, pass a screw through the display board and washer. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 27. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_082.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_083.jpg</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=933Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-15T21:44:35Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|Data Out Schmitt Trigger Bypass<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
This document will show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_001.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_002.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one! Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_003.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_004.jpg<br />
<br />
This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board (location J4).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_005.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_006.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder the leads and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_007.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_008.jpg<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_009.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_010.jpg<br />
<br />
All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_012.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_011.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_013.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_014.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_015.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, let's install the 16 ohms (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold) current sense resistors. These come as a segment from a large spool. Just pull them straight out and straighten the leads as needed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_016.jpg<br />
<br />
Installation procedure for these is exactly the same as the resistors above. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board). Here's what they look like when installed:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_017.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_018.jpg<br />
<br />
Install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a line across the middle of the board, right above the resistors we installed in step 4). You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use the last one in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step 5. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
This is what your board should look like now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_020.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_022.jpg<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have a black line wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_021.jpg<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_023.jpg<br />
<br />
Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in! Double check the orientation of your diodes before you solder them.<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes is pretty much the same as the resistors we installed above.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. SPI header ground connections ===<br />
Next, we will install the jumpers that connect the Big Digit Driver to the SPI ground line. For this we'll use zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_030.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing them in locations JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes) and JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board, below the Schmitt trigger bypass).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
Here is what they look like when installed. Note: This board also has optional jumpers installed in locations J1, J2, and J3 - you can safely ignore these.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_031.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_032.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
Next, we will install the sockets for the ICs.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_024.jpg<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint outline? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place). Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_026.jpg<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulator when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_027.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_028.jpg<br />
<br />
Then repeat for the other socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_029.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_033.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_034.jpg<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board. See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_035.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Current Regulators ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 10, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_036.jpg<br />
<br />
Install these in a line just below the transistors, in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matter! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_037.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
This part will look look identical to the current regulators in step 11, except that they will have the number '750L05' on them.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_038.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_039.jpg<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matters! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board). Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_040.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_041.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_042.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label). Don't worry about orientation.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_043.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_044.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Other Capacitors ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_046.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_047.jpg<br />
<br />
These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop them in.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_049.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_048.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_050.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_051.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_052.jpg<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_055.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_054.jpg<br />
<br />
Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_053.jpg<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_057.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_056.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board. Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_060.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_059.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_062.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_061.jpg<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_063.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_064.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_065.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. It is the top chip in this photo:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo)? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_067.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Optional: Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
If you didn't install the Schmitt trigger bypass jumpers in step 8 you should install the Schmitt trigger at this point.<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it. It is the bottom chip in this photo.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo above) should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_068.jpg<br />
<br />
Note: The behavior of a Big Digit Driver board with both a Schmitt trigger and Schmitt trigger bypass installed is undefined! Do not have both installed at the same time. Nothing will be damaged but you'll see some really weird results.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_069.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_070.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components). The connector faces 'upwards', toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_071.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_072.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 22. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_079.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing an insulator to prevent the Big Digit Driver board from coming on contact with the display and causing a short circuit. We'll also be attaching metal standoffs to the back of the display for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 23. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. Plugging the display into the edge connector should do a pretty good job lining up the mounting holes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_080.jpg<br />
<br />
=== 24. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_081.jpg<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 25. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch (3.2mm) thick nylon washer, 1/2 inch (12.7mm) long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch (19mm) tall threaded standoff. The washer goes between the display and the driver board, either on top of or under the Delrin insulator (your choice). On the bottom corners, pass a screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 26. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch (1.6mm) thick nylon washer, 7/8 inch (22.2mm) tall threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch (9.5mm) long 6-32 threaded screw. On the top corners, pass a screw through the display board and washer. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 27. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_082.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_083.jpg</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver&diff=932Big Digit Driver2011-06-15T20:52:15Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page is the central site for documentation of the Evil Mad Science Big Digit Driver kit. <br />
<br />
Main details about the Big Digit Driver kit:<br />
* The Big Digit Driver is a shift-register type driver for 12" LED digits. <br />
* The Big Digit Driver kit is currently in "limited prerelease" from Evil Mad Science. Please [http://evilmadscience.com/contact contact us] to inquire about pricing and availability.<br />
<br />
<br />
Essential Documentation:<br />
* Kit Assembly Instructions and Bill of Materials are [[Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions|located here]].<br />
* Basic information on using the Big Digit Driver is [[Using_The_Big_Digit_Driver|over here]].<br />
<br />
<br />
Open Source Hardware :<br />
* The Big Digit Driver will be released as an open source hardware project upon its official release. The electrical schematics and design files will be posted here.<br />
<br />
<br />
Places for questions, answers, and sharing experiences: <br />
* [http://www.evilmadscientist.com/forum/ Forum] at Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories<br />
* [http://www.flickr.com/groups/evilmadscience/ Evil Mad Science Auxiliary Flickr Group] where you can share photos of your ISP Shields in action!</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Using_The_Big_Digit_Driver&diff=931Using The Big Digit Driver2011-06-15T20:51:44Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page covers basic usage of the Evil Mad Science [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]] (BDD).<br />
<br />
<br />
== Power == <br />
A single 12 inch LED display (as sold by Evil Mad Science), when attached to a BDD, uses about 0.7 amps at 36 volts DC. Do not exceed 40 volts when using the BDD.<br />
<br />
The BDD has two methods for accepting power: a 2.1mm barrel jack (center positive), and a pair of screw terminals. The barrel jack has a power rating suitable only for powering a single digit and should NOT be used for powering a series of digits. The two screw terminals on the board are for attaching a power supply in permanent installations and for powering a series of digits in a 'daisy chain' configuration. Do not exceed five amps of current through any given board.<br />
<br />
Do not connect multiple power supplies to one BBD. If you are using a large number of digit in series, the series should be split into group of digits, each with their own power supply. Do not wire power supplies in parallel! This may damage your BDD's and/or the power supplies and/or you.<br />
<br />
For powering a single display and BDD in a permanent installation Evil Mad Science recommends using a weather-proofed power supply like the [http://www.meanwell.com/search/lpv-35/ Meanwell LPV-35-36].<br />
<br />
For power a large number of displays and BDDs, Evil Mad Science recommends using a weather-proofed power supply like the [http://www.meanwell.com/search/hlg-240/ Meanwell HLG-240-36].<br />
<br />
'''Note that Evil Mad Science LLC does not provide support for any power supply we do not sell. We recommend that users acquire the services of a professional electrician when installing or maintaining custom power wiring.'''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Communication ==<br />
The Big Digit Driver (BDD) was designed with the [http://arduino.cc/ Arduino] platform in mind and thus has a 6 pin (2x3 DIL) header that matches the SPI header found on most Arduino boards. The Arduino can manipulate the pins connected to its SPI header like any of its other pins, and the header makes a handy attachment point. To connect an Arduino to a BDD, use a suitable cable to connect the SPI header on the Arduino to the SPI header on the BDD. Take care to note the placement of pin one on both the Arduino and BDD. The BDD marks pin one on each of its SPI headers with a large triangle.<br />
<br />
The BDD contains a simple eight bit shift register hooked up to the header. Data is shifted in by setting the MOSI pin high or low, and then pulsing the SCK pin to clock the data in. The shift register we use (a 74595) also has a latch between the shift register and the outputs. This allows us to change the contents of the shift register but not 'display' that data until we've finished clocking in all the data. A pulse the MISO pin will copy data to the latches and thus the outputs.<br />
<br />
Here is an overview of the various signals used by the BDD:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|ATMega IC Pin<br />
|ATMega Port<br />
|Arduino Pin<br />
|SPI Symbol<br />
|BDD Shift Register Function<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|PB5<br />
|Digital 13<br />
|SCK<br />
|Register Clock<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|PB4<br />
|Digital 12<br />
|MISO<br />
|Latch Clock<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|PB3<br />
|Digital 11<br />
|MOSI<br />
|Serial Data In<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Data Format ==<br />
The display this driver was designed to work with has eight segments: seven segments to display digits zero through nine, and one segment for a decimal point. Each bit in the shift register controls a segment:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|Bit<br />
|7<br />
|6<br />
|5<br />
|4<br />
|3<br />
|2<br />
|1<br />
|0<br />
|----<br />
|Segment<br />
|DP<br />
|G<br />
|F<br />
|E<br />
|D<br />
|C<br />
|B<br />
|A<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/howto/segments.png<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The following table provides a list of characters and their associated bit pattern:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|Symbol<br />
|Decimal<br />
|Hex<br />
|Binary<br />
|----<br />
|0<br />
|63<br />
|0x3F<br />
|00111111<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|6<br />
|0x06<br />
|00000110<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|91<br />
|0x5B<br />
|01011011<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|79<br />
|0x4F<br />
|01001111<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|102<br />
|0x66<br />
|01100110<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|109<br />
|0x6D<br />
|01101101<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|125<br />
|0x7D<br />
|01111101<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|7<br />
|0x07<br />
|00000111<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|127<br />
|0x7F<br />
|01111111<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|111<br />
|0x6F<br />
|01101111<br />
|----<br />
|A<br />
|119<br />
|0x77<br />
|01110111<br />
|----<br />
|b<br />
|124<br />
|0x7C<br />
|01111100<br />
|----<br />
|C<br />
|57<br />
|0x39<br />
|00111001<br />
|----<br />
|d<br />
|94<br />
|0x5E<br />
|01011110<br />
|----<br />
|E<br />
|121<br />
|0x79<br />
|01111001<br />
|----<br />
|F<br />
|113<br />
|0x71<br />
|01110001<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Driving A Series Of Digits ==<br />
The BDD is designed to be used to drive a large number of digits from a single controller (Arduino or otherwise). As mentioned above, the BDD can carry up to five amps, allowing up to seven displays in series from a single power supply.<br />
To propagate data and clock signals down a series of displays BDD boards can be 'daisy chained' by connecting the 'output' SPI header of a display to the 'input' SPI header of the next display in the series. When looking at the silkscreen side of a BDD board (with the text right way up) the input SPI header is on the left-hand side. The output SPI header is on the right-hand side. Ensure that you have the data cables attached correctly. On the BDD, pin one of both SPI headers is marked with a large triangle. We recommend using the Schmitt trigger included with the BDD kit, even for short runs of digits. Refer to the [[Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions#21._Optional:_Insert_Schmitt_Trigger|assembly instructions]] for more information.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Code Examples ==<br />
=== Arduinio ===<br />
==== Test Pattern ====<br />
This block of code will turn half of the segments on, (other) half of the segments on, turn on all the segments, and then turn all segment off. Loops indefinitely. If used on a series of digits, you should see each stage of the pattern work its way down the line.<br />
<nowiki>//This sketch cycles through four states (half on, other half on, all on, all off) to test all segments of display.<br />
<br />
byte data = 0x00;<br />
int state = 0;<br />
<br />
<br />
void segout(byte data) { <br />
//Shift data out to shift register<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, data);<br />
<br />
//Pulse the latch clock to load the output<br />
digitalWrite(12, HIGH); <br />
digitalWrite(12, LOW);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void setup() { <br />
pinMode(13, OUTPUT); //SH_CP/SCK Shift register clock<br />
pinMode(12, OUTPUT); //SR_CP/MISO Latch Clock<br />
pinMode(11, OUTPUT); //DS/MOSI Serial data in<br />
<br />
//Blank out the register<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x00);<br />
digitalWrite(12, HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(12, LOW);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void loop() {<br />
switch (state) {<br />
case 0:<br />
data = 0xAA; //b10101010<br />
state = 1;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
case 1:<br />
data = 0x55; //b01010101<br />
state = 2;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
case 2:<br />
data = 0xFF; //b11111111<br />
state=3;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
case 3:<br />
data = 0x00; //b00000000<br />
state=0;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
}//End switch<br />
<br />
//Write the data to the shift register<br />
segout(data);<br />
<br />
delay(2000);<br />
<br />
}//End loop</nowiki></div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Using_The_Big_Digit_Driver&diff=930Using The Big Digit Driver2011-06-15T20:44:43Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page covers basic usage of the Evil Mad Science [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]] (BDD).<br />
<br />
<br />
== Power == <br />
A single 12 inch LED display (as sold by Evil Mad Science), when attached to a BDD, uses about 0.7 amps at 36 volts DC. Do not exceed 40 volts when using the BDD.<br />
<br />
The BDD has two methods for accepting power: a 2.1mm barrel jack (center positive), and a pair of screw terminals. The barrel jack has a power rating suitable only for powering a single digit and should NOT be used for powering a series of digits. The two screw terminals on the board are for attaching a power supply in permanent installations and for powering a series of digits in a 'daisy chain' configuration. Do not exceed five amps of current through any given board.<br />
<br />
Do not connect multiple power supplies to one BBD. If you are using a large number of digit in series, the series should be split into group of digits, each with their own power supply. Do not wire power supplies in parallel! This may damage your BDD's and/or the power supplies and/or you.<br />
<br />
For power a large number of digits, Evil Mad Science recommends using a power supply like the [http://www.meanwell.com/search/hlg-240/ Meanwell HLG-240-36].<br />
<br />
'''Note that Evil Mad Science LLC does not provide support for any power supply we do not sell. We recommend that users acquire the services of a professional electrician when installing or maintaining custom power wiring.'''<br />
<br />
<br />
== Communication ==<br />
The Big Digit Driver (BDD) was designed with the [http://arduino.cc/ Arduino] platform in mind and thus has a 6 pin (2x3 DIL) header that matches the SPI header found on most Arduino boards. The Arduino can manipulate the pins connected to its SPI header like any of its other pins, and the header makes a handy attachment point. To connect an Arduino to a BDD, use a suitable cable to connect the SPI header on the Arduino to the SPI header on the BDD. Take care to note the placement of pin one on both the Arduino and BDD. The BDD marks pin one on each of its SPI headers with a large triangle.<br />
<br />
The BDD contains a simple eight bit shift register hooked up to the header. Data is shifted in by setting the MOSI pin high or low, and then pulsing the SCK pin to clock the data in. The shift register we use (a 74595) also has a latch between the shift register and the outputs. This allows us to change the contents of the shift register but not 'display' that data until we've finished clocking in all the data. A pulse the MISO pin will copy data to the latches and thus the outputs.<br />
<br />
Here is an overview of the various signals used by the BDD:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|ATMega IC Pin<br />
|ATMega Port<br />
|Arduino Pin<br />
|SPI Symbol<br />
|BDD Shift Register Function<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|PB5<br />
|Digital 13<br />
|SCK<br />
|Register Clock<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|PB4<br />
|Digital 12<br />
|MISO<br />
|Latch Clock<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|PB3<br />
|Digital 11<br />
|MOSI<br />
|Serial Data In<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Data Format ==<br />
The display this driver was designed to work with has eight segments: seven segments to display digits zero through nine, and one segment for a decimal point. Each bit in the shift register controls a segment:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|Bit<br />
|7<br />
|6<br />
|5<br />
|4<br />
|3<br />
|2<br />
|1<br />
|0<br />
|----<br />
|Segment<br />
|DP<br />
|G<br />
|F<br />
|E<br />
|D<br />
|C<br />
|B<br />
|A<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/howto/segments.png<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The following table provides a list of characters and their associated bit pattern:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|Symbol<br />
|Decimal<br />
|Hex<br />
|Binary<br />
|----<br />
|0<br />
|63<br />
|0x3F<br />
|00111111<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|6<br />
|0x06<br />
|00000110<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|91<br />
|0x5B<br />
|01011011<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|79<br />
|0x4F<br />
|01001111<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|102<br />
|0x66<br />
|01100110<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|109<br />
|0x6D<br />
|01101101<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|125<br />
|0x7D<br />
|01111101<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|7<br />
|0x07<br />
|00000111<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|127<br />
|0x7F<br />
|01111111<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|111<br />
|0x6F<br />
|01101111<br />
|----<br />
|A<br />
|119<br />
|0x77<br />
|01110111<br />
|----<br />
|b<br />
|124<br />
|0x7C<br />
|01111100<br />
|----<br />
|C<br />
|57<br />
|0x39<br />
|00111001<br />
|----<br />
|d<br />
|94<br />
|0x5E<br />
|01011110<br />
|----<br />
|E<br />
|121<br />
|0x79<br />
|01111001<br />
|----<br />
|F<br />
|113<br />
|0x71<br />
|01110001<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Driving A Series Of Digits ==<br />
The BDD is designed to be used to drive a large number of digits from a single controller (Arduino or otherwise). As mentioned above, the BDD can carry up to five amps, allowing up to seven displays in series from a single power supply.<br />
To propagate data and clock signals down a series of displays BDD boards can be 'daisy chained' by connecting the 'output' SPI header of a display to the 'input' SPI header of the next display in the series. When looking at the silkscreen side of a BDD board (with the text right way up) the input SPI header is on the left-hand side. The output SPI header is on the right-hand side. Ensure that you have the data cables attached correctly. On the BDD, pin one of both SPI headers is marked with a large triangle. We recommend using the Schmitt trigger included with the BDD kit, even for short runs of digits. Refer to the [[Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions#21._Optional:_Insert_Schmitt_Trigger|assembly instructions]] for more information.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Code Examples ==<br />
=== Arduinio ===<br />
==== Test Pattern ====<br />
This block of code will turn half of the segments on, (other) half of the segments on, turn on all the segments, and then turn all segment off. Loops indefinitely. If used on a series of digits, you should see each stage of the pattern work its way down the line.<br />
<nowiki>//This sketch cycles through four states (half on, other half on, all on, all off) to test all segments of display.<br />
<br />
byte data = 0x00;<br />
int state = 0;<br />
<br />
<br />
void segout(byte data) { <br />
//Shift data out to shift register<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, data);<br />
<br />
//Pulse the latch clock to load the output<br />
digitalWrite(12, HIGH); <br />
digitalWrite(12, LOW);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void setup() { <br />
pinMode(13, OUTPUT); //SH_CP/SCK Shift register clock<br />
pinMode(12, OUTPUT); //SR_CP/MISO Latch Clock<br />
pinMode(11, OUTPUT); //DS/MOSI Serial data in<br />
<br />
//Blank out the register<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x00);<br />
digitalWrite(12, HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(12, LOW);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void loop() {<br />
switch (state) {<br />
case 0:<br />
data = 0xAA; //b10101010<br />
state = 1;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
case 1:<br />
data = 0x55; //b01010101<br />
state = 2;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
case 2:<br />
data = 0xFF; //b11111111<br />
state=3;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
case 3:<br />
data = 0x00; //b00000000<br />
state=0;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
}//End switch<br />
<br />
//Write the data to the shift register<br />
segout(data);<br />
<br />
delay(2000);<br />
<br />
}//End loop</nowiki></div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=929Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-15T20:19:39Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|Data Out Schmitt Trigger Bypass<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Evil Mad Science LLC<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
Looks a bit imposing, huh? Don't worry, looks can be deceiving. We'll show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_001.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_002.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one! Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_003.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_004.jpg<br />
<br />
This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board (location J4).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_005.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_006.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder the leads and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_007.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_008.jpg<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_009.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_010.jpg<br />
<br />
All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_012.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_011.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_013.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_014.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_015.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, let's install the 16 ohms (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold) current sense resistors. These come as a segment from a large spool. Just pull them straight out and straighten the leads as needed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_016.jpg<br />
<br />
Installation procedure for these is exactly the same as the resistors above. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board). Here's what they look like when installed:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_017.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_018.jpg<br />
<br />
Install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a line across the middle of the board, right above the resistors we installed in step 4). You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use the last one in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step five. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
This is what your board should look like now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_020.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_022.jpg<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have a black line wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_021.jpg<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_023.jpg<br />
<br />
Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in! Double check the orientation of your diodes before you solder them.<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes is pretty much the same as the resistors we installed above.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. Optional: Schmitt Trigger Bypass ===<br />
Big Digit Drivers can be linked in series via the SPI ports on either side of the board. For long runs of digits (three or more) we've included a footprint for a Schmitt trigger - this IC will 'boost' the signals that run down the series of drivers and helps eliminate synchronization issues due to noise and attenuation.<br />
<br />
If, for whatever reason, you don't want to use the Schmitt trigger you will need to install four jumpers in locations JP1, JP2, and JP3 (look in the upper right-hand side of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
For this we'll use zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire if you prefer.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_030.jpg<br />
<br />
They go in like the resistors and diodes in the steps above.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_032.jpg<br />
<br />
(Note that in the photo above, jumper JP4 is also installed. Jumper JP4 is covered in step 9 - in this step we're only discussing the three jumpers above it.)<br />
<br />
DO NOT use both the Schmitt trigger and bypass jumpers at the same time! Using both shouldn't cause any damage, but the behavior of digits down the line will be strange and unpredictable.<br />
<br />
There is no harm is using the Schmitt trigger on short runs of digits, so unless you have a specific reason to not use it we recommend install the Schmitt trigger instead of these jumpers.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Optional: SPI header ground connections ===<br />
Since Big Digit Drivers can be wired in series essentially indefinitely, we also include the option of isolating the board from the the ground line on the SPI headers. Isolating the ground lines will only be useful to people who are driving a large number of digits on multiple power supplies in specific circumstances, so we recommend that you install these jumpers unless you are completely sure that you need to isolate a Big Digit Driver from the SPI ground line.<br />
<br />
Once again we'll be using zero ohm 'resistors' - just like above in step 8. We'll be installing them in locations JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes) and JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board, below the Schmitt trigger bypass).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_031.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_032.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
We don't recommend soldering chips directly to the board, and the kit include sockets for your convenience.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_024.jpg<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint outline? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place). Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_026.jpg<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulator when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_027.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_028.jpg<br />
<br />
Then repeat for the other socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_029.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_033.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_034.jpg<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board. See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_035.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
This part will look similar to the transistors in step 11, except: they will have the number '750L05' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_038.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_039.jpg<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matters! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board). Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_040.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_041.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Current Regulators ===<br />
These regulators will look very similar to the 5 Volt Regulator in step 12. Identical, in fact, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_036.jpg<br />
<br />
Install these in a line just below the transistors, in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matter! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_037.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_042.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label). Don't worry about orientation.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_043.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_044.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Other Capacitors ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_046.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_047.jpg<br />
<br />
These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop them in.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_049.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_048.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_050.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_051.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_052.jpg<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_055.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_054.jpg<br />
<br />
Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_053.jpg<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_057.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_056.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board. Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_060.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_059.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_062.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_061.jpg<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_063.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_064.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_065.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. It is the top chip in this photo:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo)? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_067.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Optional: Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
If you didn't install the Schmitt trigger bypass jumpers in step 8 you should install the Schmitt trigger at this point.<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it. It is the bottom chip in this photo.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo above) should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_068.jpg<br />
<br />
Note: The behavior of a Big Digit Driver board with both a Schmitt trigger and Schmitt trigger bypass installed is undefined! Do not have both installed at the same time. Nothing will be damaged but you'll see some really weird results.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 22. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_069.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_070.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components). The connector faces 'upwards', toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_071.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_072.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 23. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_079.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing an insulator to prevent the Big Digit Driver board from coming on contact with the display and causing a short circuit. We'll also be attaching metal standoffs to the back of the display for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 24. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. Plugging the display into the edge connector should do a pretty good job lining up the mounting holes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_080.jpg<br />
<br />
=== 25. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_081.jpg<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 26. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch (3.2mm) thick nylon washer, 1/2 inch (12.7mm) long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch (19mm) tall threaded standoff. The washer goes between the display and the driver board, either on top of or under the Delrin insulator (your choice). On the bottom corners, pass a screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 27. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch (1.6mm) thick nylon washer, 7/8 inch (22.2mm) tall threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch (9.5mm) long 6-32 threaded screw. On the top corners, pass a screw through the display board and washer. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 28. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_082.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_083.jpg</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=928Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-15T20:03:36Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|Data Out Schmitt Trigger Bypass<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
Looks a bit imposing, huh? Don't worry, looks can be deceiving. We'll show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_001.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_002.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one! Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_003.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_004.jpg<br />
<br />
This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board (location J4).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_005.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_006.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder the leads and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_007.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_008.jpg<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_009.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_010.jpg<br />
<br />
All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_012.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_011.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_013.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_014.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_015.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, let's install the 16 ohms (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold) current sense resistors. These come as a segment from a large spool. Just pull them straight out and straighten the leads as needed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_016.jpg<br />
<br />
Installation procedure for these is exactly the same as the resistors above. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board). Here's what they look like when installed:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_017.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_018.jpg<br />
<br />
Install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a line across the middle of the board, right above the resistors we installed in step 4). You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use the last one in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step five. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
This is what your board should look like now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_020.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_022.jpg<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have a black line wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_021.jpg<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_023.jpg<br />
<br />
Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in! Double check the orientation of your diodes before you solder them.<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes is pretty much the same as the resistors we installed above.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. Optional: Schmitt Trigger Bypass ===<br />
Big Digit Drivers can be linked in series via the SPI ports on either side of the board. For long runs of digits (three or more) we've included a footprint for a Schmitt trigger - this IC will 'boost' the signals that run down the series of drivers and helps eliminate synchronization issues due to noise and attenuation.<br />
<br />
If, for whatever reason, you don't want to use the Schmitt trigger you will need to install four jumpers in locations JP1, JP2, and JP3 (look in the upper right-hand side of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
For this we'll use zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire if you prefer.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_030.jpg<br />
<br />
They go in like the resistors and diodes in the steps above.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_032.jpg<br />
<br />
(Note that in the photo above, jumper JP4 is also installed. Jumper JP4 is covered in step 9 - in this step we're only discussing the three jumpers above it.)<br />
<br />
DO NOT use both the Schmitt trigger and bypass jumpers at the same time! Using both shouldn't cause any damage, but the behavior of digits down the line will be strange and unpredictable.<br />
<br />
There is no harm is using the Schmitt trigger on short runs of digits, so unless you have a specific reason to not use it we recommend install the Schmitt trigger instead of these jumpers.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Optional: SPI header ground connections ===<br />
Since Big Digit Drivers can be wired in series essentially indefinitely, we also include the option of isolating the board from the the ground line on the SPI headers. Isolating the ground lines will only be useful to people who are driving a large number of digits on multiple power supplies in specific circumstances, so we recommend that you install these jumpers unless you are completely sure that you need to isolate a Big Digit Driver from the SPI ground line.<br />
<br />
Once again we'll be using zero ohm 'resistors' - just like above in step 8. We'll be installing them in locations JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes) and JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board, below the Schmitt trigger bypass).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_031.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_032.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
We don't recommend soldering chips directly to the board, and the kit include sockets for your convenience.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_024.jpg<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint outline? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place). Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_026.jpg<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulator when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_027.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_028.jpg<br />
<br />
Then repeat for the other socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_029.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_033.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_034.jpg<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board. See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_035.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
This part will look similar to the transistors in step 11, except: they will have the number '750L05' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_038.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_039.jpg<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matters! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board). Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_040.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_041.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Current Regulators ===<br />
These regulators will look very similar to the 5 Volt Regulator in step 12. Identical, in fact, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_036.jpg<br />
<br />
Install these in a line just below the transistors, in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matter! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_037.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_042.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label). Don't worry about orientation.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_043.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_044.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Other Capacitors ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_046.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_047.jpg<br />
<br />
These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop them in.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_049.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_048.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_050.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_051.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_052.jpg<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_055.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_054.jpg<br />
<br />
Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_053.jpg<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_057.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_056.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board. Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_060.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_059.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_062.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_061.jpg<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_063.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_064.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_065.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. It is the top chip in this photo:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo)? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_067.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Optional: Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
If you didn't install the Schmitt trigger bypass jumpers in step 8 you should install the Schmitt trigger at this point.<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it. It is the bottom chip in this photo.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo above) should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_068.jpg<br />
<br />
Note: The behavior of a Big Digit Driver board with both a Schmitt trigger and Schmitt trigger bypass installed is undefined! Do not have both installed at the same time. Nothing will be damaged but you'll see some really weird results.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 22. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_069.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_070.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components). The connector faces 'upwards', toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_071.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_072.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 23. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_079.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing an insulator to prevent the Big Digit Driver board from coming on contact with the display and causing a short circuit. We'll also be attaching metal standoffs to the back of the display for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 24. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. Plugging the display into the edge connector should do a pretty good job lining up the mounting holes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_080.jpg<br />
<br />
=== 25. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_081.jpg<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 26. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch (3.2mm) thick nylon washer, 1/2 inch (12.7mm) long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch (19mm) tall threaded standoff. The washer goes between the display and the driver board, either on top of or under the Delrin insulator (your choice). On the bottom corners, pass a screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 27. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch (1.6mm) thick nylon washer, 7/8 inch (22.2mm) tall threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch (9.5mm) long 6-32 threaded screw. On the top corners, pass a screw through the display board and washer. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 28. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_082.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_083.jpg</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=927Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-15T20:02:12Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|Data Out Schmitt Trigger Bypass<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
Looks a bit imposing, huh? Don't worry, looks can be deceiving. We'll show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_001.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_002.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one! Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_003.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_004.jpg<br />
<br />
This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board (location J4).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_005.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_006.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder the leads and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_007.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_008.jpg<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_009.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_010.jpg<br />
<br />
All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_012.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_011.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_013.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_014.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_015.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, let's install the 16 ohms (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold) current sense resistors. These come as a segment from a large spool. Just pull them straight out and straighten the leads as needed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_016.jpg<br />
<br />
Installation procedure for these is exactly the same as the resistors above. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board). Here's what they look like when installed:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_017.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_018.jpg<br />
<br />
Install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a line across the middle of the board, right above the resistors we installed in step 4). You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use the last one in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step five. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
This is what your board should look like now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_020.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_022.jpg<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have a black line wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_021.jpg<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_023.jpg<br />
<br />
Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in! Double check the orientation of your diodes before you solder them.<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes is pretty much the same as the resistors we installed above.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. Optional: Schmitt Trigger Bypass ===<br />
Big Digit Drivers can be linked in series via the SPI ports on either side of the board. For long runs of digits (three or more) we've included a footprint for a Schmitt trigger - this IC will 'boost' the signals that run down the series of drivers and helps eliminate synchronization issues due to noise and attenuation.<br />
<br />
If, for whatever reason, you don't want to use the Schmitt trigger you will need to install four jumpers in locations JP1, JP2, and JP3 (look in the upper right-hand side of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
For this we'll use zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire if you prefer.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_030.jpg<br />
<br />
They go in like the resistors and diodes in the steps above.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_032.jpg<br />
<br />
(Note that in the photo above, jumper JP4 is also installed. Jumper JP4 is covered in step 9 - in this step we're only discussing the three jumpers above it.)<br />
<br />
DO NOT use both the Schmitt trigger and bypass jumpers at the same time! Using both shouldn't cause any damage, but the behavior of digits down the line will be strange and unpredictable.<br />
<br />
There is no harm is using the Schmitt trigger on short runs of digits, so unless you have a specific reason to not use it we recommend install the Schmitt trigger instead of these jumpers.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Optional: SPI header ground connections ===<br />
Since Big Digit Drivers can be wired in series essentially indefinitely, we also include the option of isolating the board from the the ground line on the SPI headers. Isolating the ground lines will only be useful to people who are driving a large number of digits on multiple power supplies in specific circumstances, so we recommend that you install these jumpers unless you are completely sure that you need to isolate a Big Digit Driver from the SPI ground line.<br />
<br />
Once again we'll be using zero ohm 'resistors' - just like above in step 8. We'll be installing them in locations JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes) and JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board, below the Schmitt trigger bypass).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_031.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_032.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
We don't recommend soldering chips directly to the board, and the kit include sockets for your convenience.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_024.jpg<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint outline? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place). Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_026.jpg<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulator when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_027.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_028.jpg<br />
<br />
Then repeat for the other socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_029.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_033.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_034.jpg<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board. See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_035.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
This part will look similar to the transistors in step 11, except: they will have the number '750L05' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_038.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_039.jpg<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matters! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board). Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_040.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_041.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Current Regulators ===<br />
These regulators will look very similar to the 5 Volt Regulator in step 12. Identical, in fact, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_036.jpg<br />
<br />
Install these in a line just below the transistors, in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matter! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_037.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_042.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label). Don't worry about orientation.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_043.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_044.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Other Capacitors ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_046.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_047.jpg<br />
<br />
These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop them in.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_049.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_048.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_050.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_051.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_052.jpg<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_055.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_054.jpg<br />
<br />
Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_053.jpg<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_057.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_056.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board. Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_060.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_059.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_062.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_061.jpg<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_063.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_064.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_065.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. It is the top chip in this photo:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo)? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_067.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Optional: Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
If you didn't install the Schmitt trigger bypass jumpers in step 8 you should install the Schmitt trigger at this point.<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it. It is the bottom chip in this photo.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC (on the left end in the photo above) should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_068.jpg<br />
<br />
Note: The behavior of a Big Digit Driver board with both a Schmitt trigger and Schmitt trigger bypass installed is undefined! Do not have both installed at the same time. Nothing will be damaged but you'll see some really weird results.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 22. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_069.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_070.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components). The connector faces 'upwards', toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_071.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_072.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 23. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_079.jpg<br />
<br />
Next, we'll be installing an insulator to prevent the Big Digit Driver board from coming on contact with the display and causing a short circuit. We'll also be attaching metal standoffs to the back of the display for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 24. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. Plugging the display into the edge connector should do a pretty good job lining up the mounting holes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_080.jpg<br />
<br />
=== 25. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_081.jpg<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 26. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch (3.2mm) thick nylon washer, 1/2 inch (12.7mm) long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch (19mm) tall threaded standoff. The washer goes between the display and the driver board, either on top of or under the Delrin insulator (your choice). On the bottom corners, pass a screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 27. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch (1.6mm) thick nylon washer, 7/8 inch (22.2mm) tall threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch (9.5mm) long 6-32 threaded screw. On the top corners, pass a screw through the display board and washer. Screw a standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 28. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_082.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_083.jpg</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Using_The_Big_Digit_Driver&diff=918Using The Big Digit Driver2011-06-15T02:56:24Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page covers basic usage of the Evil Mad Science [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]] (BDD).<br />
<br />
<br />
== Power == <br />
A single 12 inch LED display (as sold by Evil Mad Science), when attached to a BDD, uses about 0.7 amps at 36 volts DC. Do not exceed 40 volts when using the BDD.<br />
<br />
The BDD has two methods for accepting power: a 2.1mm barrel jack (center positive), and a pair of screw terminals. The barrel jack has a power rating suitable only for powering a single digit and should NOT be used for powering a series of digits. The two screw terminals on the board are for powering a series of digits and they are intended to be used to 'daisy chain' power through multiple BDD boards. (That is, a power supply may be attached to one side of BDD-A, and BDD-B may be wired to the opposite side of BDD-A.) Do not exceed five amps of current through any given board - this is enough to run seven digits.<br />
<br />
Do not connect multiple power supplies to one BBD. If you are using a large number of digit in series, the series should be split into group of digits, each with their own power supply. Do not wire power supplies in parallel! This may damage your BDD's and/or the power supplies and/or you.<br />
<br />
(Power supply recommendations?)<br />
<br />
(Isolating board ground from SPI ground?)<br />
<br />
<br />
== Communication ==<br />
The Big Digit Driver (BDD) was designed with the [http://arduino.cc/ Arduino] platform in mind and thus has a 6 pin (2x3 DIL) header that matches the SPI header found on most Arduino boards. The Arduino can manipulate the pins connected to its SPI header like any of its other pins, and the header makes a handy attachment point. To connect an Arduino to a BDD, use a suitable cable to connect the SPI header on the Arduino to the SPI header on the BDD. Take care to note the placement of pin one on both the Arduino and BDD. The BDD marks pin one on each of its SPI headers with a large triangle.<br />
<br />
The BDD contains a simple eight bit shift register hooked up to the header. Data is shifted in by setting the MOSI pin high or low, and then pulsing the SCK pin to clock the data in. The shift register we use (a 74595) also has a latch between the shift register and the outputs. This allows us to change the contents of the shift register but not 'display' that data until we've finished clocking in all the data. A pulse the MISO pin will copy data to the latches and thus the outputs.<br />
<br />
Here is an overview of the various signals used by the BDD:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|ATMega IC Pin<br />
|ATMega Port<br />
|Arduino Pin<br />
|SPI Symbol<br />
|BDD Shift Register Function<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|PB5<br />
|Digital 13<br />
|SCK<br />
|Register Clock<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|PB4<br />
|Digital 12<br />
|MISO<br />
|Latch Clock<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|PB3<br />
|Digital 11<br />
|MOSI<br />
|Serial Data In<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Data Format ==<br />
The display this driver was designed to work with has eight segments: seven segments to display digits zero through nine, and one segment for a decimal point. Each bit in the shift register controls a segment:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|Bit<br />
|7<br />
|6<br />
|5<br />
|4<br />
|3<br />
|2<br />
|1<br />
|0<br />
|----<br />
|Segment<br />
|DP<br />
|G<br />
|F<br />
|E<br />
|D<br />
|C<br />
|B<br />
|A<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
(Segment diagram image here.)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The following table provides a list of characters and their associated bit pattern:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|Symbol<br />
|Decimal<br />
|Hex<br />
|Binary<br />
|----<br />
|0<br />
|63<br />
|0x3F<br />
|00111111<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|6<br />
|0x06<br />
|00000110<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|91<br />
|0x5B<br />
|01011011<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|79<br />
|0x4F<br />
|01001111<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|102<br />
|0x66<br />
|01100110<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|109<br />
|0x6D<br />
|01101101<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|125<br />
|0x7D<br />
|01111101<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|7<br />
|0x07<br />
|00000111<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|127<br />
|0x7F<br />
|01111111<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|111<br />
|0x6F<br />
|01101111<br />
|----<br />
|A<br />
|119<br />
|0x77<br />
|01110111<br />
|----<br />
|b<br />
|124<br />
|0x7C<br />
|01111100<br />
|----<br />
|C<br />
|57<br />
|0x39<br />
|00111001<br />
|----<br />
|d<br />
|94<br />
|0x5E<br />
|01011110<br />
|----<br />
|E<br />
|121<br />
|0x79<br />
|01111001<br />
|----<br />
|F<br />
|113<br />
|0x71<br />
|01110001<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Driving A Series Of Digits ==<br />
The BDD is designed to be used to drive a large number of digits from a single controller (Arduino or otherwise). As mentioned above, the BDD can carry up to five amps, allowing up to seven displays in series from a single power supply.<br />
To propagate data and clock signals down a series of displays BDD boards can be 'daisy chained' by connecting the 'output' SPI header of a display to the 'input' SPI header of the next display in the series. When looking at the silkscreen side of a BDD board (with the text right way up) the input SPI header is on the left-hand side. The output SPI header is on the right-hand side. Ensure that you have the data cables attached correctly. On the BDD, pin one of both SPI headers is marked with a large triangle. We recommend using the Schmitt trigger included with the BDD kit, even for short runs of digits. Refer to the [[Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions#21._Optional:_Insert_Schmitt_Trigger|assembly instructions]] for more information.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Code Examples ==<br />
=== Arduinio ===<br />
==== Test Pattern ====<br />
This block of code will turn half of the segments on, (other) half of the segments on, turn on all the segments, and then turn all segment off. Loops indefinitely. If used on a series of digits, you should see each stage of the pattern work its way down the line.<br />
<nowiki>//This sketch cycles through four states (half on, other half on, all on, all off) to test all segments of display.<br />
<br />
byte data = 0x00;<br />
int state = 0;<br />
<br />
<br />
void segout(byte data) { <br />
//Shift data out to shift register<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, data);<br />
<br />
//Pulse the latch clock to load the output<br />
digitalWrite(12, HIGH); <br />
digitalWrite(12, LOW);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void setup() { <br />
pinMode(13, OUTPUT); //SH_CP/SCK Shift register clock<br />
pinMode(12, OUTPUT); //SR_CP/MISO Latch Clock<br />
pinMode(11, OUTPUT); //DS/MOSI Serial data in<br />
<br />
//Blank out the register<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x00);<br />
digitalWrite(12, HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(12, LOW);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void loop() {<br />
switch (state) {<br />
case 0:<br />
data = 0xAA; //b10101010<br />
state = 1;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
case 1:<br />
data = 0x55; //b01010101<br />
state = 2;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
case 2:<br />
data = 0xFF; //b11111111<br />
state=3;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
case 3:<br />
data = 0x00; //b00000000<br />
state=0;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
}//End switch<br />
<br />
//Write the data to the shift register<br />
segout(data);<br />
<br />
delay(2000);<br />
<br />
}//End loop</nowiki></div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Using_The_Big_Digit_Driver&diff=915Using The Big Digit Driver2011-06-15T02:52:03Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page covers basic usage of the Evil Mad Science [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]] (BDD).<br />
<br />
<br />
== Power == <br />
A single 12 inch LED display (as sold by Evil Mad Science), when attached to a BDD, uses about 0.7 amps at 36 volts DC. Do not exceed 40 volts when using the BDD.<br />
<br />
The BDD has two methods for accepting power: a 2.1mm barrel jack (center positive), and a pair of screw terminals. The barrel jack has a power rating suitable only for powering a single digit and should NOT be used for powering a series of digits. The two screw terminals on the board are for powering a series of digits and they are intended to be used to 'daisy chain' power through multiple BDD boards. (That is, a power supply may be attached to one side of BDD-A, and BDD-B may be wired to the opposite side of BDD-A.) Do not exceed five amps of current through any given board - this is enough to run seven digits.<br />
<br />
Do not connect multiple power supplies to one BBD. If you are using a large number of digit in series, the series should be split into group of digits, each with their own power supply. Do not wire power supplies in parallel! This may damage your BDD's and/or the power supplies and/or you.<br />
<br />
(Power supply recommendations?)<br />
<br />
(Isolating board ground from SPI ground?)<br />
<br />
<br />
== Communication ==<br />
The Big Digit Driver (BDD) was designed with the [http://arduino.cc/ Arduino] platform in mind and thus has a 6 pin (2x3 DIL) header that matches the SPI header found on most Arduino boards. The Arduino can manipulate the pins connected to its SPI header like any of its other pins, and the header makes a handy attachment point. To connect an Arduino to a BDD, use a suitable cable to connect the SPI header on the Arduino to the SPI header on the BDD. Take care to note the placement of pin one on both the Arduino and BDD. The BDD marks pin one on each of its SPI headers with a large triangle.<br />
<br />
The BDD contains a simple eight bit shift register hooked up to the header. Data is shifted in by setting the MOSI pin high or low, and then pulsing the SCK pin to clock the data in. The shift register we use (a 74595) also has a latch between the shift register and the outputs. This allows us to change the contents of the shift register but not 'display' that data until we've finished clocking in all the data. A pulse the MISO pin will copy data to the latches and thus the outputs.<br />
<br />
Here is an overview of the various signals used by the BDD:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|ATMega IC Pin<br />
|ATMega Port<br />
|Arduino Pin<br />
|SPI Symbol<br />
|BDD Shift Register Function<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|PB5<br />
|Digital 13<br />
|SCK<br />
|Register Clock<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|PB4<br />
|Digital 12<br />
|MISO<br />
|Latch Clock<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|PB3<br />
|Digital 11<br />
|MOSI<br />
|Serial Data In<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Segments ==<br />
The display this driver was designed to work with has eight segments: seven segments to display digits zero through nine, and one segment for a decimal point. Each bit in the shift register controls a segment:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|Bit<br />
|7<br />
|6<br />
|5<br />
|4<br />
|3<br />
|2<br />
|1<br />
|0<br />
|----<br />
|Segment<br />
|DP<br />
|G<br />
|F<br />
|E<br />
|D<br />
|C<br />
|B<br />
|A<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
(Segment diagram image here.)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The following table provides a list of characters and their associated bit pattern:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|Symbol<br />
|Decimal<br />
|Hex<br />
|Binary<br />
|----<br />
|0<br />
|63<br />
|0x3F<br />
|00111111<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|6<br />
|0x06<br />
|00000110<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|91<br />
|0x5B<br />
|01011011<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|79<br />
|0x4F<br />
|01001111<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|102<br />
|0x66<br />
|01100110<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|109<br />
|0x6D<br />
|01101101<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|125<br />
|0x7D<br />
|01111101<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|7<br />
|0x07<br />
|00000111<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|127<br />
|0x7F<br />
|01111111<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|111<br />
|0x6F<br />
|01101111<br />
|----<br />
|A<br />
|119<br />
|0x77<br />
|01110111<br />
|----<br />
|b<br />
|124<br />
|0x7C<br />
|01111100<br />
|----<br />
|C<br />
|57<br />
|0x39<br />
|00111001<br />
|----<br />
|d<br />
|94<br />
|0x5E<br />
|01011110<br />
|----<br />
|E<br />
|121<br />
|0x79<br />
|01111001<br />
|----<br />
|F<br />
|113<br />
|0x71<br />
|01110001<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Driving A Series Of Digits ==<br />
The BDD is designed to be used to drive a large number of digits from a single controller (Arduino or otherwise). As mentioned above, the BDD can carry up to five amps, allowing up to seven displays in series from a single power supply.<br />
To propagate data and clock signals down a series of displays BDD boards can be 'daisy chained' by connecting the 'output' SPI header of a display to the 'input' SPI header of the next display in the series. When looking at the silkscreen side of a BDD board (with the text right way up) the input SPI header is on the left-hand side. The output SPI header is on the right-hand side. Ensure that you have the data cables attached correctly. On the BDD, pin one of both SPI headers is marked with a large triangle. We recommend using the Schmitt trigger included with the BDD kit, even for short runs of digits. Refer to the [[Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions#21._Optional:_Insert_Schmitt_Trigger|assembly instructions]] for more information.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Code Examples ==<br />
=== Arduinio ===<br />
==== Test Pattern ====<br />
This block of code will turn half of the segments on, (other) half of the segments on, turn on all the segments, and then turn all segment off. Loops indefinitely. If used on a series of digits, you should see each stage of the pattern work its way down the line.<br />
<nowiki>//This sketch cycles through four states (half on, other half on, all on, all off) to test all segments of display.<br />
<br />
byte data = 0x00;<br />
int state = 0;<br />
<br />
<br />
void segout(byte data) { <br />
//Shift data out to shift register<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, data);<br />
<br />
//Pulse the latch clock to load the output<br />
digitalWrite(12, HIGH); <br />
digitalWrite(12, LOW);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void setup() { <br />
pinMode(13, OUTPUT); //SH_CP/SCK Shift register clock<br />
pinMode(12, OUTPUT); //SR_CP/MISO Latch Clock<br />
pinMode(11, OUTPUT); //DS/MOSI Serial data in<br />
<br />
//Blank out the register<br />
shiftOut(11, 13, MSBFIRST, 0x00);<br />
digitalWrite(12, HIGH);<br />
digitalWrite(12, LOW);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void loop() {<br />
switch (state) {<br />
case 0:<br />
data = 0xAA; //b10101010<br />
state = 1;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
case 1:<br />
data = 0x55; //b01010101<br />
state = 2;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
case 2:<br />
data = 0xFF; //b11111111<br />
state=3;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
case 3:<br />
data = 0x00; //b00000000<br />
state=0;<br />
break;<br />
<br />
}//End switch<br />
<br />
//Write the data to the shift register<br />
segout(data);<br />
<br />
delay(2000);<br />
<br />
}//End loop</nowiki></div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Using_The_Big_Digit_Driver&diff=914Using The Big Digit Driver2011-06-15T02:35:15Z<p>Dhembry: Created page with "This page covers basic usage of the Evil Mad Science Big Digit Driver (BDD). == Power == A single 12 inch LED display (as sold by Evil Mad Science), when ..."</p>
<hr />
<div>This page covers basic usage of the Evil Mad Science [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]] (BDD).<br />
<br />
<br />
== Power == <br />
A single 12 inch LED display (as sold by Evil Mad Science), when attached to a BDD, uses about 0.7 amps at 36 volts DC. Do not exceed 40 volts when using the BDD.<br />
<br />
The BDD has two methods for accepting power: a 2.1mm barrel jack (center positive), and a pair of screw terminals. The barrel jack has a power rating suitable only for powering a single digit and should NOT be used for powering a series of digits. The two screw terminals on the board are for powering a series of digits and they are intended to be used to 'daisy chain' power through multiple BDD boards. (That is, a power supply may be attached to one side of BDD-A, and BDD-B may be wired to the opposite side of BDD-A.) Do not exceed five amps of current through any given board - this is enough to run seven digits.<br />
<br />
Do not connect multiple power supplies to one BBD. If you are using a large number of digit in series, the series should be split into group of digits, each with their own power supply. Do not wire power supplies in parallel! This may damage your BDD's and/or the power supplies and/or you.<br />
<br />
(Power supply recommendations?)<br />
<br />
(Isolating board ground from SPI ground?)<br />
<br />
<br />
== Communication ==<br />
The Big Digit Driver (BDD) was designed with the [http://arduino.cc/ Arduino] platform in mind and thus has a 6 pin (2x3 DIL) header that matches the SPI header found on most Arduino boards. The Arduino can manipulate the pins connected to its SPI header like any of its other pins, and the header makes a handy attachment point. To connect an Arduino to a BDD, use a suitable cable to connect the SPI header on the Arduino to the SPI header on the BDD. Take care to note the placement of pin one on both the Arduino and BDD. The BDD marks pin one on each of its SPI headers with a large triangle.<br />
<br />
The BDD contains a simple eight bit shift register hooked up to the header. Data is shifted in by setting the MOSI pin high or low, and then pulsing the SCK pin to clock the data in. The shift register we use (a 74595) also has a latch between the shift register and the outputs. This allows us to change the contents of the shift register but not 'display' that data until we've finished clocking in all the data. A pulse the MISO pin will copy data to the latches and thus the outputs.<br />
<br />
Here is an overview of the various signals used by the BDD:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|ATMega IC Pin<br />
|ATMega Port<br />
|Arduino Pin<br />
|SPI Symbol<br />
|BDD Shift Register Function<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|PB5<br />
|Digital 13<br />
|SCK<br />
|Register Clock<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|PB4<br />
|Digital 12<br />
|MISO<br />
|Latch Clock<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|PB3<br />
|Digital 11<br />
|MOSI<br />
|Serial Data In<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Segments ==<br />
The display this driver was designed to work with has eight segments: seven segments to display digits zero through nine, and one segment for a decimal point. Each bit in the shift register controls a segment:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|Bit<br />
|7<br />
|6<br />
|5<br />
|4<br />
|3<br />
|2<br />
|1<br />
|0<br />
|----<br />
|Segment<br />
|DP<br />
|G<br />
|F<br />
|E<br />
|D<br />
|C<br />
|B<br />
|A<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
(Segment diagram image here.)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The following table provides a list of characters and their associated bit pattern:<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" <br />
|Symbol<br />
|Decimal<br />
|Hex<br />
|Binary<br />
|----<br />
|0<br />
|63<br />
|0x3F<br />
|00111111<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|6<br />
|0x06<br />
|00000110<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|91<br />
|0x5B<br />
|01011011<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|79<br />
|0x4F<br />
|01001111<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|102<br />
|0x66<br />
|01100110<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|109<br />
|0x6D<br />
|01101101<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|125<br />
|0x7D<br />
|01111101<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|7<br />
|0x07<br />
|00000111<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|127<br />
|0x7F<br />
|01111111<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|111<br />
|0x6F<br />
|01101111<br />
|----<br />
|A<br />
|119<br />
|0x77<br />
|01110111<br />
|----<br />
|b<br />
|124<br />
|0x7C<br />
|01111100<br />
|----<br />
|C<br />
|57<br />
|0x39<br />
|00111001<br />
|----<br />
|d<br />
|94<br />
|0x5E<br />
|01011110<br />
|----<br />
|E<br />
|121<br />
|0x79<br />
|01111001<br />
|----<br />
|F<br />
|113<br />
|0x71<br />
|01110001<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Driving A Series Of Digits ==<br />
The BDD is designed to be used to drive a large number of digits from a single controller (Arduino or otherwise). As mentioned above, the BDD can carry up to five amps, allowing up to seven displays in series from a single power supply.<br />
To propagate data and clock signals down a series of displays BDD boards can be 'daisy chained' by connecting the 'output' SPI header of a display to the 'input' SPI header of the next display in the series. When looking at the silkscreen side of a BDD board (with the text right way up) the input SPI header is on the left-hand side. The output SPI header is on the right-hand side. Ensure that you have the data cables attached correctly. On the BDD, pin one of both SPI headers is marked with a large triangle. We recommend using the Schmitt trigger included with the BDD kit, even for short runs of digits. Refer to the [[Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions#21._Optional:_Insert_Schmitt_Trigger|assembly instructions]] for more information.</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=913Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-15T02:26:19Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|Data Out Schmitt Trigger Bypass<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
Looks a bit imposing, huh? Don't worry, looks can be deceiving. We'll show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_001.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_002.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one! Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_003.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_004.jpg<br />
<br />
This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_005.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_006.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder the leads and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_007.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_008.jpg<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_009.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_010.jpg<br />
<br />
All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_012.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_011.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_013.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_014.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_015.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, let's install the 16 ohms (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold) current sense resistors. These come as a segment from a large spool. Just pull them straight out and straighten the leads as needed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_016.jpg<br />
<br />
Installation procedure for these is exactly the same as the resistors above. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_017.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold) and install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a big line across the middle of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_018.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_019.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use the last one in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step five. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
This is what your board should look like now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_020.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_022.jpg<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have black lines wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_021.jpg<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_023.jpg<br />
<br />
Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in! Double check the orientation of your diodes before you solder them.<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes is pretty much the same as the resistors we installed above.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. Optional: Schmitt Trigger Bypass ===<br />
Big Digit Drivers can be linked in series via the SPI ports on either side of the board. For long runs of digits (three or more) we've included a footprint for a Schmitt trigger - this IC will 'boost' the signals that run down the series of drivers and helps eliminate synchronization issues due to noise and attenuation.<br />
<br />
If, for whatever reason, you don't want to use the Schmitt trigger you can instead install four jumpers in locations JP1, JP2, and JP3 (look in the upper right-hand side of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
For this we'll use zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire if you prefer.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_030.jpg<br />
<br />
They go in like the resistors and diodes in the steps above.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_032.jpg<br />
<br />
(Note that in the photo above, jumper JP4 is also installed. Jumper JP4 is covered in step 9 - in this step we're only discussing the three jumpers above it.)<br />
<br />
DO NOT use both the Schmitt trigger and bypass jumpers at the same time! Using both shouldn't cause any damage, but the behavior of digits down the line will be strange and unpredictable.<br />
<br />
There is no harm is using the Schmitt trigger on short runs of digits, so unless you have a specific reason to not use it we recommend install the trigger instead of these jumpers.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Optional: SPI header ground connections ===<br />
Since Big Digit Drivers can be wired in series essentially indefinitely, we also include the option of isolating the board from the the ground line on the SPI headers. Isolating the ground lines will only be useful to people who are driving a large number of digits on multiple power supplies, so we recommend that you install these jumpers unless you are completely sure that you need to isolate drivers for some reason.<br />
<br />
Once again we'll be using zero ohm 'resistors' - just like above in step 8. We'll be installing them in locations JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes) and JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board, below the Schmitt trigger bypass).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_031.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_032.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
We don't recommend soldering chips directly to the board, and the kit include sockets for your convenience.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_024.jpg<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place). Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_026.jpg<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulator when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_027.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_028.jpg<br />
<br />
Then repeat for the other socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_029.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_033.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_034.jpg<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board. See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_035.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 11, except: they will have the number '750L05' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_038.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_039.jpg<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matters! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board). Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_040.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_041.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Current Regulators ===<br />
These regulators will look very similar to the 5 Volt Regulator in step 12. Identical, in fact, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_036.jpg<br />
<br />
Install these in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matter! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_037.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_042.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label). Don't worry about orientation.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_043.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_044.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Other Capacitors ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_046.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_047.jpg<br />
<br />
These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop them in.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_049.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_048.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_050.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_051.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_052.jpg<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_055.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_054.jpg<br />
<br />
Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_053.jpg<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_057.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_056.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board. Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_060.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_059.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_062.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_061.jpg<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_063.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_064.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_065.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. It is the top chip in this photo:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_067.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Optional: Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
If you didn't install the Schmitt trigger bypass jumpers in step 8 you should install the Schmitt trigger at this point.<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it. It is the bottom chip in this photo.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
The schmitt trigger and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_068.jpg<br />
<br />
Note: The behavior of a Big Digit Driver board with both a Schmitt trigger and Schmitt trigger bypass installed is undefined! Do not have both installed at the same time. Nothing will be damaged but you'll see some really weird results.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 22. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_069.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_070.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components). The connector faces 'upwards', toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_071.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_072.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 23. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_079.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 24. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. Plugging the display into the edge connector should do a pretty good job lining up the mounting holes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_080.jpg<br />
<br />
=== 25. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_081.jpg<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 26. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch nylon washer, 1/2 inch long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch threaded standoff. The washer goes between the display and the driver board, either on top of or under the Delrin insulator (your choice). Pass the 1/2 inch screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw the standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 27. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch nylon washer, 7/8 inch threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch 6-32 threaded screw. Pass the 3/8 inch screw through the display board and washer, and screw the standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 28. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_082.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_083.jpg</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=907Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-14T23:23:47Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|Data Out Schmitt Trigger Bypass<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
Looks a bit imposing, huh? Don't worry, looks can be deceiving. We'll show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_001.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_002.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one! Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_003.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_004.jpg<br />
<br />
This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_005.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_006.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder the leads and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_007.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_008.jpg<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_009.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_010.jpg<br />
<br />
All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_012.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_011.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_013.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_014.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_015.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, let's install the 16 ohms (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold) current sense resistors. These come as a segment from a large spool. Just pull them straight out and straighten the leads as needed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_016.jpg<br />
<br />
Installation procedure for these is exactly the same as the resistors above. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_017.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold) and install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a big line across the middle of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_018.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_019.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use the last one in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step five. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
This is what your board should look like now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_020.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_022.jpg<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have black lines wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_021.jpg<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_023.jpg<br />
<br />
Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in! Double check the orientation of your diodes before you solder them.<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes is pretty much the same as the resistors we installed above.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. Optional: Schmitt Trigger Bypass ===<br />
Big Digit Drivers can be linked in series via the SPI ports on either side of the board. For long runs of digits (three or more) we've included a footprint for a Schmitt trigger - this IC will 'boost' the signals that run down the series of drivers and helps eliminate synchronization issues due to noise and attenuation.<br />
<br />
If, for whatever reason, you don't want to use the Schmitt trigger you can instead install four jumpers in locations JP1, JP2, and JP3 (look in the upper right-hand side of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
For this we'll use zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire if you prefer.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_030.jpg<br />
<br />
They go in like the resistors and diodes in the steps above.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_032.jpg<br />
<br />
(Note that in the photo above, jumper JP4 is also installed. Jumper JP4 is covered in step 9 - in this step we're only discussing the three jumpers above it.)<br />
<br />
DO NOT use both the Schmitt trigger and bypass jumpers at the same time! Using both shouldn't cause any damage, but the behavior of digits down the line will be strange and unpredictable.<br />
<br />
There is no harm is using the Schmitt trigger on short runs of digits, so unless you have a specific reason to not use it we recommend install the trigger instead of these jumpers.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Optional: SPI header ground connections ===<br />
Since Big Digit Drivers can be wired in series essentially indefinitely, we also include the option of isolating the board from the the ground line on the SPI headers. Isolating the ground lines will only be useful to people who are driving a large number of digits on multiple power supplies, so we recommend that you install these jumpers unless you are completely sure that you need to isolate drivers for some reason.<br />
<br />
Once again we'll be using zero ohm 'resistors' - just like above in step 8. We'll be installing them in locations JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes) and JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board, below the Schmitt trigger bypass).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_031.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_032.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
We don't recommend soldering chips directly to the board, and the kit include sockets for your convenience.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_024.jpg<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place). Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_026.jpg<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulator when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_027.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_028.jpg<br />
<br />
Then repeat for the other socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_029.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_033.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_034.jpg<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board. See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_035.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 11, except: they will have the number '750L05' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_038.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_039.jpg<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matters! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board). Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_040.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_041.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Current Regulators ===<br />
These regulators will look very similar to the 5 Volt Regulator in step 12. Identical, in fact, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_036.jpg<br />
<br />
Install these in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matter! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_037.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_042.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label). Don't worry about orientation.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_043.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_044.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Other Capacitors ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_046.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_047.jpg<br />
<br />
These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop them in.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_049.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_048.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_050.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_051.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_052.jpg<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_055.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_054.jpg<br />
<br />
Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_053.jpg<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_057.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_056.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board. Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_060.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_059.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_062.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_061.jpg<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_063.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_064.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_065.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. It is the top chip in this photo:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_067.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Optional: Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
If you didn't install the Schmitt trigger bypass jumpers in step 8 you should install the Schmitt trigger at this point.<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it. It is the bottom chip in this photo.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
The schmitt trigger and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_068.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 22. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_069.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_070.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components). The connector faces 'upwards', toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_071.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_072.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 23. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_079.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 24. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. Plugging the display into the edge connector should do a pretty good job lining up the mounting holes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_080.jpg<br />
<br />
=== 25. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_081.jpg<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 26. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch nylon washer, 1/2 inch long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch threaded standoff. The washer goes between the display and the driver board, either on top of or under the Delrin insulator (your choice). Pass the 1/2 inch screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw the standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 27. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch nylon washer, 7/8 inch threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch 6-32 threaded screw. Pass the 3/8 inch screw through the display board and washer, and screw the standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 28. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_082.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_083.jpg</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=906Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-14T23:21:47Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|Data Out Schmitt Trigger Bypass<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
Looks a bit imposing, huh? Don't worry, looks can be deceiving. We'll show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_001.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_002.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one! Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_003.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_004.jpg<br />
<br />
This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_005.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_006.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder the leads and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_007.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_008.jpg<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_009.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_010.jpg<br />
<br />
All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_012.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_011.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_013.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_014.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_015.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, let's install the 16 ohms (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold) current sense resistors. These come as a segment from a large spool. Just pull them straight out and straighten the leads as needed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_016.jpg<br />
<br />
Installation procedure for these is exactly the same as the resistors above. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_017.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold) and install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a big line across the middle of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_018.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_019.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use the last one in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step five. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
This is what your board should look like now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_020.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_022.jpg<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have black lines wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_021.jpg<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_023.jpg<br />
<br />
Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in! Double check the orientation of your diodes before you solder them.<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes is pretty much the same as the resistors we installed above.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. Optional: Schmitt Trigger Bypass ===<br />
Big Digit Drivers can be linked in series via the SPI ports on either side of the board. For long runs of digits (three or more) we've included a footprint for a Schmitt trigger - this IC will 'boost' the signals that run down the series of drivers and helps eliminate synchronization issues due to noise and attenuation.<br />
<br />
If, for whatever reason, you don't want to use the Schmitt trigger you can instead install four jumpers in locations JP1, JP2, and JP3 (look in the upper right-hand side of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
For this we'll use zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire if you prefer.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_030.jpg<br />
<br />
They go in like the resistors and diodes in the steps above.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_032.jpg<br />
<br />
(Note that in the photo above, jumper JP4 is also installed. Jumper JP4 is covered in step 9 - in this step we're only discussing the three jumpers above it.)<br />
<br />
DO NOT use both the Schmitt trigger and bypass jumpers at the same time! Using both shouldn't cause any damage, but the behavior of digits down the line will be strange and unpredictable.<br />
<br />
There is no harm is using the Schmitt trigger on short runs of digits, so unless you have a specific reason to not use it we recommend install the trigger instead of these jumpers.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Optional: SPI header ground connections ===<br />
Since Big Digit Drivers can be wired in series essentially indefinitely, we also include the option of isolating the board from the the ground line on the SPI headers. Isolating the ground lines will only be useful to people who are driving a large number of digits on multiple power supplies, so we recommend that you install these jumpers unless you are completely sure that you need to isolate drivers for some reason.<br />
<br />
Once again we'll be using zero ohm 'resistors' - just like above in step 8. We'll be installing them in locations JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes) and JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board, below the Schmitt trigger bypass).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_031.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_032.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
We don't recommend soldering chips directly to the board, and the kit include sockets for your convenience.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_024.jpg<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place). Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_026.jpg<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulator when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_027.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_028.jpg<br />
<br />
Then repeat for the other socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_029.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_033.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_034.jpg<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board. See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_035.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 11, except: they will have the number '750L05' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_038.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_039.jpg<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matters! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board). Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_040.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_041.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Current Regulators ===<br />
These regulators will look very similar to the 5 Volt Regulator in step 12. Identical, in fact, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_036.jpg<br />
<br />
Install these in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matter! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_037.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_042.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label). Don't worry about orientation.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_043.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_044.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Other Capacitors ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_046.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_047.jpg<br />
<br />
These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop them in.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_049.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_048.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_050.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_051.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_052.jpg<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_055.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_054.jpg<br />
<br />
Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_053.jpg<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_057.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_056.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board. Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_060.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_059.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_062.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_061.jpg<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_063.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_064.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_065.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. It is the top chip in this photo:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_067.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Optional: Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
If you didn't install the Schmitt trigger bypass jumpers in step 8 you should install the Schmitt trigger at this point.<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it. It is the bottom chip in this photo.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
The schmitt trigger and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_068.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 22. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_069.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_070.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_071.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_072.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 23. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_079.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 24. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. Plugging the display into the edge connector should do a pretty good job lining up the mounting holes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_080.jpg<br />
<br />
=== 25. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_081.jpg<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 26. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch nylon washer, 1/2 inch long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch threaded standoff. The washer goes between the display and the driver board, either on top of or under the Delrin insulator (your choice). Pass the 1/2 inch screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw the standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 27. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch nylon washer, 7/8 inch threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch 6-32 threaded screw. Pass the 3/8 inch screw through the display board and washer, and screw the standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 28. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_082.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_083.jpg</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=905Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-14T23:05:48Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|Data Out Schmitt Trigger Bypass<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
Looks a bit imposing, huh? Don't worry, looks can be deceiving. We'll show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_001.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_002.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one! Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_003.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_004.jpg<br />
<br />
This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_005.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_006.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder the leads and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_007.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_008.jpg<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_009.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_010.jpg<br />
<br />
All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_012.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_011.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_013.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_014.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_015.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, let's install the 16 ohms (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold) current sense resistors. These come as a segment from a large spool. Just pull them straight out and straighten the leads as needed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_016.jpg<br />
<br />
Installation procedure for these is exactly the same as the resistors above. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_017.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold) and install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a big line across the middle of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_018.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_019.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use the last one in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step five. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
This is what your board should look like now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_020.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_022.jpg<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have black lines wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_021.jpg<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_023.jpg<br />
<br />
Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in! Double check the orientation of your diodes before you solder them.<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes is pretty much the same as the resistors we installed above.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. Optional: Schmitt Trigger Bypass ===<br />
Big Digit Drivers can be linked in series via the SPI ports on either side of the board. For long runs of digits (three or more) we've included a footprint for a Schmitt trigger - this IC will 'boost' the signals that run down the series of drivers and helps eliminate synchronization issues due to noise and attenuation.<br />
<br />
If, for whatever reason, you don't want to use the Schmitt trigger you can instead install four jumpers in locations JP1, JP2, and JP3 (look in the upper right-hand side of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
For this we'll use zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire if you prefer.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_030.jpg<br />
<br />
They go in like the resistors and diodes in the steps above.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_032.jpg<br />
<br />
(Note that in the photo above, jumper JP4 is also installed. Jumper JP4 is covered in step 9 - in this step we're only discussing the jumpers above it.)<br />
<br />
There is no harm is using the Schmitt trigger on short runs of digits and using the bypass jumpers may work just fine for longer runs, but DO NOT use both at the same time! Using both shouldn't cause any damage, but the behavior of digits down the line will be strange and unpredictable.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Optional: SPI header ground connections ===<br />
Since Big Digit Drivers can be wired in series essentially indefinitely, we also include the option of isolating the board from the the ground line on the SPI headers.<br />
<br />
We recommend that you install these jumpers unless you are positive that you need to isolate drivers for some reason. Isolating the ground lines will only be useful to people who are driving a large number of digits for two or more power supplies.<br />
<br />
Once again we'll be using zero ohm 'resistors' - just like above in step 8. We'll be installing them in locations JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes) and JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board, below the Schmitt trigger bypass).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_031.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_032.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
We don't recommend soldering chips directly to the board, and the kit include sockets for your convenience.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_024.jpg<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place). Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_026.jpg<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulator when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_027.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_028.jpg<br />
<br />
Then repeat for the other socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_029.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_033.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_034.jpg<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board. See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_035.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 11, except: they will have the number '750L05' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_038.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_039.jpg<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matters! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board). Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_040.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_041.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Current Regulators ===<br />
These regulators will look very similar to the 5 Volt Regulator in step 12. Identical, in fact, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_036.jpg<br />
<br />
Install these in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matter! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_037.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_042.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label). Don't worry about orientation.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_043.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_044.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Other Capacitors ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_046.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_047.jpg<br />
<br />
These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop them in.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_049.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_048.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_050.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_051.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_052.jpg<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_055.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_054.jpg<br />
<br />
Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_053.jpg<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_057.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_056.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board. Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_060.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_059.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_062.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_061.jpg<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_063.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_064.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_065.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. It is the top chip in this photo:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_067.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Optional: Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
If you didn't install the Schmitt trigger bypass jumpers in step 8 you should install the Schmitt trigger at this point.<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it. It is the bottom chip in this photo.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
The schmitt trigger and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_068.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 22. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_069.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_070.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_071.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_072.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 23. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_079.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 24. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. Plugging the display into the edge connector should do a pretty good job lining up the mounting holes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_080.jpg<br />
<br />
=== 25. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_081.jpg<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 26. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch nylon washer, 1/2 inch long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch threaded standoff. The washer goes between the display and the driver board, either on top of or under the Delrin insulator (your choice). Pass the 1/2 inch screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw the standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 27. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch nylon washer, 7/8 inch threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch 6-32 threaded screw. Pass the 3/8 inch screw through the display board and washer, and screw the standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 28. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_082.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_083.jpg</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=904Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-14T23:01:09Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|Data Out Schmitt Trigger Bypass<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
Looks a bit imposing, huh? Don't worry, looks can be deceiving. We'll show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_001.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_002.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one! Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_003.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_004.jpg<br />
<br />
This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_005.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_006.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder the leads and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_007.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_008.jpg<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_009.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_010.jpg<br />
<br />
All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_012.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_011.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_013.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_014.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_015.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, let's install the 16 ohms (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold) current sense resistors. These come as a segment from a large spool. Just pull them straight out and straighten the leads as needed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_016.jpg<br />
<br />
Installation procedure for these is exactly the same as the resistors above. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_017.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold) and install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a big line across the middle of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_018.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_019.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use the last one in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step five. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
This is what your board should look like now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_020.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_022.jpg<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have black lines wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_021.jpg<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_023.jpg<br />
<br />
Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in! Double check the orientation of your diodes before you solder them.<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes is pretty much the same as the resistors we installed above.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. Optional: Schmitt Trigger Bypass ===<br />
Big Digit Drivers can be linked in series via the SPI ports on either side of the board. For long runs of digits (three or more) we've included a footprint for a Schmitt trigger - this IC will 'boost' the signals that run down the series of drivers and helps eliminate synchronization issues due to noise and attenuation.<br />
<br />
If, for whatever reason, you don't want to use the Schmitt trigger you can instead install four jumpers in locations JP1, JP2, and JP3 (look in the upper right-hand side of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
For this we'll use zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire if you prefer.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_030.jpg<br />
<br />
They go in like the resistors and diodes in the steps above.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_032.jpg<br />
<br />
(Note that in the photo above, jumper JP4 is also installed. Jumper JP4 is covered in step 9 - in this step we're only discussing the jumpers above it.)<br />
<br />
There is no harm is using the Schmitt trigger on short runs of digits and using the bypass jumpers may work just fine for longer runs, but DO NOT use both at the same time! Using both shouldn't cause any damage, but the behavior of digits down the line will be strange and unpredictable.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Optional: SPI header ground connections ===<br />
Since Big Digit Drivers can be wired in series essentially indefinitely, we also include the option of isolating the board from the the ground line on the SPI headers.<br />
<br />
We recommend that you install these jumpers unless you are positive that you need to isolate drivers for some reason. Isolating the ground lines will only be useful to people who are driving a large number of digits for two or more power supplies.<br />
<br />
Once again we'll be using zero ohm 'resistors' - just like above in step 8. We'll be installing them in locations JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes) and JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board, below the Schmitt trigger bypass).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_031.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_032.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
We don't recommend soldering chips directly to the board, and the kit include sockets for your convenience.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_024.jpg<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place). Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_026.jpg<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulator when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_027.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_028.jpg<br />
<br />
Then repeat for the other socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_029.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_033.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_034.jpg<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board. See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_035.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 11, except: they will have the number '750L05' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_038.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_039.jpg<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matters! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board). Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_040.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_041.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Current Regulators ===<br />
These regulators will look very similar to the 5 Volt Regulator in step 12. Identical, in fact, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_036.jpg<br />
<br />
Install these in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matter! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_037.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_042.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label). Don't worry about orientation.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_043.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_044.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Other Capacitors ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_046.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_047.jpg<br />
<br />
These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop them in.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_049.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_048.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_050.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_051.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_052.jpg<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_055.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_054.jpg<br />
<br />
Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_053.jpg<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_057.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_056.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board. Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_060.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_059.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_062.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_061.jpg<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_063.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_064.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_065.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. It is the top chip in this photo:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_067.jpg<br />
<br />
=== 21. Optional: Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
If you didn't install the Schmitt trigger bypass jumpers in step 8 you should install the Schmitt trigger at this point.<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it. It is the bottom chip in this photo.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_066.jpg<br />
<br />
The schmitt trigger and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, Orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_068.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_069.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_070.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_071.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_072.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_079.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. The card edge connector at location J1 should be sufficient to align.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_080.jpg<br />
<br />
=== 15. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_081.jpg<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch nylon washer, 1/2 inch long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch threaded standoff. The washer goes between the display and the driver board, either on top of or under the Delrin insulator (your choice). Pass the 1/2 inch screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw the standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch nylon washer, 7/8 inch threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch 6-32 threaded screw. Pass the 3/8 inch screw through the display board and washer, and screw the standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_082.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_083.jpg</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=903Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-14T22:54:52Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|Data Out Schmitt Trigger Bypass<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
Looks a bit imposing, huh? Don't worry, looks can be deceiving. We'll show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_001.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_002.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one! Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_003.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_004.jpg<br />
<br />
This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_005.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_006.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder the leads and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_007.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_008.jpg<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_009.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_010.jpg<br />
<br />
All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_012.jpg<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_011.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_013.jpg<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_014.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_015.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, let's install the 16 ohms (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold) current sense resistors. These come as a segment from a large spool. Just pull them straight out and straighten the leads as needed.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_016.jpg<br />
<br />
Installation procedure for these is exactly the same as the resistors above. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_017.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold) and install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a big line across the middle of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_018.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_019.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use the last one in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step five. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
This is what your board should look like now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_020.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_022.jpg<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have black lines wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_021.jpg<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_023.jpg<br />
<br />
Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in! Double check the orientation of your diodes before you solder them.<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes is pretty much the same as the resistors we installed above.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. Optional: Schmitt Trigger Bypass ===<br />
Big Digit Drivers can be linked in series via the SPI ports on either side of the board. For long runs of digits (three or more) we've included a footprint for a Schmitt trigger - this IC will 'boost' the signals that run down the series of drivers and helps eliminate synchronization issues due to noise and attenuation.<br />
<br />
If, for whatever reason, you don't want to use the Schmitt trigger you can instead install four jumpers in locations JP1, JP2, and JP3 (look in the upper right-hand side of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
For this we'll use zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire if you prefer.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_030.jpg<br />
<br />
They go in like the resistors and diodes in the steps above.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_032.jpg<br />
<br />
(Note that in the photo above, jumper JP4 is also installed. Jumper JP4 is covered in step 9 - in this step we're only discussing the jumpers above it.)<br />
<br />
There is no harm is using the Schmitt trigger on short runs of digits and using the bypass jumpers may work just fine for longer runs, but DO NOT use both at the same time! Using both shouldn't cause any damage, but the behavior of digits down the line will be strange and unpredictable.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Optional: SPI header ground connections ===<br />
Since Big Digit Drivers can be wired in series essentially indefinitely, we also include the option of isolating the board from the the ground line on the SPI headers.<br />
<br />
We recommend that you install these jumpers unless you are positive that you need to isolate drivers for some reason. Isolating the ground lines will only be useful to people who are driving a large number of digits for two or more power supplies.<br />
<br />
Once again we'll be using zero ohm 'resistors' - just like above in step 8. We'll be installing them in locations JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes) and JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board, below the Schmitt trigger bypass).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_031.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_032.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
We don't recommend soldering chips directly to the board, and the kit include sockets for your convenience.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_024.jpg<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_025.jpg<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place). Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_026.jpg<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulators when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_027.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_028.jpg<br />
<br />
Then repeat for the other socket.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_029.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_033.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_034.jpg<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board. See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_035.jpg<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 11, except: they will have the number '750L05' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_038.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_039.jpg<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matters! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board). Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_040.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_041.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Current Regulators ===<br />
These regulators will look very similar to the 5 Volt Regulator in step 12. Identical, in fact, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_036.jpg<br />
<br />
Install these in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matter! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_037.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_042.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label). Don't worry about orientation.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_043.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_044.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Other Capacitors ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_046.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_047.jpg<br />
<br />
These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop them in.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_048.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_049.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_050.jpg<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_051.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_052.jpg<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_055.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_054.jpg<br />
<br />
Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_053.jpg<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_057.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_056.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board. Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_060.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_059.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_062.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_061.jpg<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_063.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_064.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_065.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. It is the top chip in this photo:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_065.jpg<br />
<br />
You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_067.jpg<br />
<br />
=== 21. Optional: Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
If you didn't install the Schmitt trigger bypass jumpers in step 8 you should install the Schmitt trigger at this point.<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it. It is the bottom chip in this photo.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_065.jpg<br />
<br />
The schmitt trigger and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, Orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_068.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_069.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_070.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_071.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_072.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_079.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. The card edge connector at location J1 should be sufficient to align.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_080.jpg<br />
<br />
=== 15. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_081.jpg<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch nylon washer, 1/2 inch long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch threaded standoff. The washer goes between the display and the driver board, either on top of or under the Delrin insulator (your choice). Pass the 1/2 inch screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw the standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch nylon washer, 7/8 inch threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch 6-32 threaded screw. Pass the 3/8 inch screw through the display board and washer, and screw the standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_082.jpg<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/bdd/v0.9/assy/bdd_083.jpg</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=899Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-14T00:53:00Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|Data Out Schmitt Trigger Bypass<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
Looks a bit imposing, huh? Don't worry, looks can be deceiving. We'll show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
(Photo here.)<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one!<br />
<br />
Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold). This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
Solder the excess and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5. All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Next, let's install the current sense resistors for all the other segments. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board) and are 16 ohms resistors (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold) and install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a big line across the middle of the board).<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use it in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step five. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have black lines wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint. Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in!<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes in very similar to the resistors above: bend the leads, drop them in place, bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. Optional: Schmitt Trigger Bypass ===<br />
Big Digit Drivers can be linked in series via the SPI ports on either side of the board. For long runs of digits (three or more) we've included a footprint for a Schmitt trigger - this IC will 'boost' the signals that run down the series of drivers and helps eliminate synchronization issues due to noise and attenuation.<br />
<br />
If, for whatever reason, you don't want to use the Schmitt trigger you can instead install four jumpers in locations JP1, JP2, and JP3 (look in the upper right-hand side of the board). For this we'll use zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire if you prefer.<br />
<br />
They go in like the resistors in the steps above: bend the leads, drop in place, bend leads on back to hold them in place, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
There is no harm is using the Schmitt trigger on short runs of digits and using the bypass jumpers may work just fine for longer runs, but DO NOT use both at the same time! Using both shouldn't cause any damage, but the behavior of digits down the line will be strange and unpredictable.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Optional: SPI header ground connections ===<br />
Since Big Digit Drivers can be wired in series essentially indefinitely, we also include the option of isolating the board from the the ground line on the SPI headers.<br />
<br />
We recommend that you install these jumpers unless you are positive that you need to isolate drivers for some reason. Isolating the ground lines will only be useful to people who are driving a large number of digits for two or more power supplies.<br />
<br />
Once again we'll be using zero ohm 'resistors' - just like above in step 8. We'll be installing them in locations JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board, below the Schmitt trigger bypass) and JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
We don't recommend soldering chips directly to the board, and the kit include sockets for your convenience.<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place).<br />
<br />
Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulators when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board.<br />
<br />
See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
Like the other parts in the kit, bend the leads over on the back side of the board, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 11, except: they will have the number '750L05' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matter! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part. Otherwise, follow the same procedure here as will the other parts: install, bend the leads over on the back side of the board, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Current Regulators ===<br />
These regulators will look very similar to the 5 Volt Regulator in step 12. Identical, in fact, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them.<br />
<br />
Install these in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matter! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
As usual, install, bend the leads on the back, solder, and trim off the excess wire.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it. We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label).<br />
<br />
Orientation doesn't matter with this part, so you can just drop it in, bend the leads, solder, and trim any excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Other Capacitor ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in). These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4.<br />
<br />
Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop it in, bend the leads, solder, and trim any excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board. Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board.<br />
<br />
Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Optional: Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
If you didn't install the Schmitt trigger bypass jumpers in step 8 you should install the Schmitt trigger at this point.<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it, and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, Orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components).<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. The card edge connector at location J1 should be sufficient to align.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch nylon washer, 1/2 inch long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch threaded standoff. The washer goes between the display and the driver board, either on top of or under the Delrin insulator (your choice). Pass the 1/2 inch screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw the standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch nylon washer, 7/8 inch threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch 6-32 threaded screw. Pass the 3/8 inch screw through the display board and washer, and screw the standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=898Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-14T00:44:18Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[Big_Digit_Driver|Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|Data Out Schmitt Trigger Bypass<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
Looks a bit imposing, huh? Don't worry, looks can be deceiving. We'll show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
(Photo here.)<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one!<br />
<br />
Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold). This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
Solder the excess and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5. All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Next, let's install the current sense resistors for all the other segments. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board) and are 16 ohms resistors (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold) and install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a big line across the middle of the board).<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use it in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step five. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have black lines wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint. Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in!<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes in very similar to the resistors above: bend the leads, drop them in place, bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. Optional: Schmitt Trigger Bypass ===<br />
Big Digit Drivers can be linked in series via the SPI ports on either side of the board. For long runs of digits (three or more) we've included a footprint for a Schmitt trigger - this IC will 'boost' the signals that run down the series of drivers and helps eliminate synchronization issues due to noise and attenuation.<br />
<br />
If, for whatever reason, you don't want to use the Schmitt trigger you can instead install four jumpers in locations JP1, JP2, and JP3 (look in the upper right-hand side of the board). For this we'll use the zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire if you prefer.<br />
<br />
They go in like the resistors above: bend the leads, drop in place, bend leads on back to hold them in place, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
There is no harm is using the Schmitt trigger on short runs of digits and using the bypass jumpers may work just fine for longer runs, but DO NOT use both at the same time! Using both shouldn't cause any damage, but the behavior of digits down the line will be strange and unpredictable.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Optional: SPI header ground connections ===<br />
Since Big Digit Drivers can be wired in series essentially indefinitely, we also include the option of isolating the board from the the ground line on the SPI headers.<br />
<br />
We recommend that you install these jumpers unless you are positive that you need to isolate drivers for some reason. Isolating the ground lines will only be useful to people who are driving a large number of digits for two or more power supplies.<br />
<br />
Once again we'll be using zero ohm 'resistors' - just like above in step 8. We'll be installing them in locations JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board, below the Schmitt trigger bypass) and JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
We don't recommend soldering chips directly to the board, and the kit include sockets for your convenience.<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place).<br />
<br />
Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulators when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board.<br />
<br />
See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
Like the other parts in the kit, bend the leads over on the back side of the board, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 11, except: they will have the number '750L05' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matter! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part. Otherwise, follow the same procedure here as will the other parts: install, bend the leads over on the back side of the board, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Current Regulators ===<br />
These regulators will look very similar to the 5 Volt Regulator in step 12. Identical, in fact, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them.<br />
<br />
Install these in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matter! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
As usual, install, bend the leads on the back, solder, and trim off the excess wire.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it. We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label).<br />
<br />
Orientation doesn't matter with this part, so you can just drop it in, bend the leads, solder, and trim any excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Other Capacitor ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in). These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4.<br />
<br />
Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop it in, bend the leads, solder, and trim any excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board. Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board.<br />
<br />
Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Optional: Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
If you didn't install the Schmitt trigger bypass jumpers in step 8 you should install the Schmitt trigger at this point.<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it, and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, Orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components).<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. The card edge connector at location J1 should be sufficient to align.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch nylon washer, 1/2 inch long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch threaded standoff. The washer goes between the display and the driver board, either on top of or under the Delrin insulator (your choice). Pass the 1/2 inch screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw the standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch nylon washer, 7/8 inch threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch 6-32 threaded screw. Pass the 3/8 inch screw through the display board and washer, and screw the standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=897Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-14T00:43:25Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Big_Digit_Driver Big Digit Driver]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|Data Out Schmitt Trigger Bypass<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
Looks a bit imposing, huh? Don't worry, looks can be deceiving. We'll show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
(Photo here.)<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one!<br />
<br />
Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold). This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
Solder the excess and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5. All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Next, let's install the current sense resistors for all the other segments. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board) and are 16 ohms resistors (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold) and install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a big line across the middle of the board).<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use it in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step five. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have black lines wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint. Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in!<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes in very similar to the resistors above: bend the leads, drop them in place, bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. Optional: Schmitt Trigger Bypass ===<br />
Big Digit Drivers can be linked in series via the SPI ports on either side of the board. For long runs of digits (three or more) we've included a footprint for a Schmitt trigger - this IC will 'boost' the signals that run down the series of drivers and helps eliminate synchronization issues due to noise and attenuation.<br />
<br />
If, for whatever reason, you don't want to use the Schmitt trigger you can instead install four jumpers in locations JP1, JP2, and JP3 (look in the upper right-hand side of the board). For this we'll use the zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire if you prefer.<br />
<br />
They go in like the resistors above: bend the leads, drop in place, bend leads on back to hold them in place, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
There is no harm is using the Schmitt trigger on short runs of digits and using the bypass jumpers may work just fine for longer runs, but DO NOT use both at the same time! Using both shouldn't cause any damage, but the behavior of digits down the line will be strange and unpredictable.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Optional: SPI header ground connections ===<br />
Since Big Digit Drivers can be wired in series essentially indefinitely, we also include the option of isolating the board from the the ground line on the SPI headers.<br />
<br />
We recommend that you install these jumpers unless you are positive that you need to isolate drivers for some reason. Isolating the ground lines will only be useful to people who are driving a large number of digits for two or more power supplies.<br />
<br />
Once again we'll be using zero ohm 'resistors' - just like above in step 8. We'll be installing them in locations JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board, below the Schmitt trigger bypass) and JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
We don't recommend soldering chips directly to the board, and the kit include sockets for your convenience.<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place).<br />
<br />
Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulators when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board.<br />
<br />
See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
Like the other parts in the kit, bend the leads over on the back side of the board, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 11, except: they will have the number '750L05' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matter! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part. Otherwise, follow the same procedure here as will the other parts: install, bend the leads over on the back side of the board, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Current Regulators ===<br />
These regulators will look very similar to the 5 Volt Regulator in step 12. Identical, in fact, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them.<br />
<br />
Install these in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matter! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
As usual, install, bend the leads on the back, solder, and trim off the excess wire.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it. We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label).<br />
<br />
Orientation doesn't matter with this part, so you can just drop it in, bend the leads, solder, and trim any excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Other Capacitor ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in). These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4.<br />
<br />
Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop it in, bend the leads, solder, and trim any excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board. Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board.<br />
<br />
Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Optional: Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
If you didn't install the Schmitt trigger bypass jumpers in step 8 you should install the Schmitt trigger at this point.<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it, and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, Orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components).<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. The card edge connector at location J1 should be sufficient to align.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch nylon washer, 1/2 inch long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch threaded standoff. The washer goes between the display and the driver board, either on top of or under the Delrin insulator (your choice). Pass the 1/2 inch screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw the standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch nylon washer, 7/8 inch threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch 6-32 threaded screw. Pass the 3/8 inch screw through the display board and washer, and screw the standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=896Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-14T00:42:41Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Big_Digit_Driver Big Digit Driver].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|Data Out Schmitt Trigger Bypass<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
Looks a bit imposing, huh? Don't worry, looks can be deceiving. We'll show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
(Photo here.)<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one!<br />
<br />
Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold). This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
Solder the excess and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5. All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Next, let's install the current sense resistors for all the other segments. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board) and are 16 ohms resistors (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold) and install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a big line across the middle of the board).<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use it in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step five. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have black lines wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint. Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in!<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes in very similar to the resistors above: bend the leads, drop them in place, bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. Optional: Schmitt Trigger Bypass ===<br />
Big Digit Drivers can be linked in series via the SPI ports on either side of the board. For long runs of digits (three or more) we've included a footprint for a Schmitt trigger - this IC will 'boost' the signals that run down the series of drivers and helps eliminate synchronization issues due to noise and attenuation.<br />
<br />
If, for whatever reason, you don't want to use the Schmitt trigger you can instead install four jumpers in locations JP1, JP2, and JP3 (look in the upper right-hand side of the board). For this we'll use the zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire if you prefer.<br />
<br />
They go in like the resistors above: bend the leads, drop in place, bend leads on back to hold them in place, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
There is no harm is using the Schmitt trigger on short runs of digits and using the bypass jumpers may work just fine for longer runs, but DO NOT use both at the same time! Using both shouldn't cause any damage, but the behavior of digits down the line will be strange and unpredictable.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Optional: SPI header ground connections ===<br />
Since Big Digit Drivers can be wired in series essentially indefinitely, we also include the option of isolating the board from the the ground line on the SPI headers.<br />
<br />
We recommend that you install these jumpers unless you are positive that you need to isolate drivers for some reason. Isolating the ground lines will only be useful to people who are driving a large number of digits for two or more power supplies.<br />
<br />
Once again we'll be using zero ohm 'resistors' - just like above in step 8. We'll be installing them in locations JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board, below the Schmitt trigger bypass) and JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
We don't recommend soldering chips directly to the board, and the kit include sockets for your convenience.<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place).<br />
<br />
Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulators when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board.<br />
<br />
See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
Like the other parts in the kit, bend the leads over on the back side of the board, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 11, except: they will have the number '750L05' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matter! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part. Otherwise, follow the same procedure here as will the other parts: install, bend the leads over on the back side of the board, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Current Regulators ===<br />
These regulators will look very similar to the 5 Volt Regulator in step 12. Identical, in fact, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them.<br />
<br />
Install these in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matter! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
As usual, install, bend the leads on the back, solder, and trim off the excess wire.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it. We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label).<br />
<br />
Orientation doesn't matter with this part, so you can just drop it in, bend the leads, solder, and trim any excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Other Capacitor ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in). These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4.<br />
<br />
Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop it in, bend the leads, solder, and trim any excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board. Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board.<br />
<br />
Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Optional: Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
If you didn't install the Schmitt trigger bypass jumpers in step 8 you should install the Schmitt trigger at this point.<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it, and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, Orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components).<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. The card edge connector at location J1 should be sufficient to align.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch nylon washer, 1/2 inch long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch threaded standoff. The washer goes between the display and the driver board, either on top of or under the Delrin insulator (your choice). Pass the 1/2 inch screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw the standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch nylon washer, 7/8 inch threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch 6-32 threaded screw. Pass the 3/8 inch screw through the display board and washer, and screw the standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=895Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-14T00:41:30Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Big_Digit_Driver Big Digit Driver].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|Data Out Schmitt Trigger Bypass<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
Looks a bit imposing, huh? Don't worry, looks can be deceiving. We'll show you where each part goes.<br />
<br />
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
(Photo here.)<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one!<br />
<br />
Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold). This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
Solder the excess and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5. All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Next, let's install the current sense resistors for all the other segments. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board) and are 16 ohms resistors (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold) and install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a big line across the middle of the board).<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use it in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step five. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have black lines wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint. Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in!<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes in very similar to the resistors above: bend the leads, drop them in place, bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. Optional: Schmitt Trigger Bypass ===<br />
Big Digit Drivers can be linked in series via the SPI ports on either side of the board. For long runs of digits (three or more) we've included a footprint for a Schmitt trigger - this IC will 'boost' the signals that run down the series of drivers and helps eliminate synchronization issues due to noise and attenuation.<br />
<br />
If, for whatever reason, you don't want to use the Schmitt trigger you can instead install four jumpers in locations JP1, JP2, and JP3 (look in the upper right-hand side of the board). For this we'll use the zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire if you prefer.<br />
<br />
They go in like the resistors above: bend the leads, drop in place, bend leads on back to hold them in place, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
There is no harm is using the Schmitt trigger on short runs of digits and using the bypass jumpers may work just fine for longer runs, but DO NOT use both at the same time! Using both shouldn't cause any damage, but the behavior of digits down the line will be strange and unpredictable.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Optional: SPI header ground connections ===<br />
Since Big Digit Drivers can be wired in series essentially indefinitely, we also include the option of isolating the board from the the ground line on the SPI headers.<br />
<br />
We recommend that you install these jumpers unless you are positive that you need to isolate drivers for some reason. Isolating the ground lines will only be useful to people who are driving a large number of digits for two or more power supplies.<br />
<br />
Once again we'll be using zero ohm 'resistors' - just like above in step 8. We'll be installing them in locations JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board, below the Schmitt trigger bypass) and JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
We don't recommend soldering chips directly to the board, and the kit include sockets for your convenience.<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place).<br />
<br />
Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulators when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board.<br />
<br />
See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
Like the other parts in the kit, bend the leads over on the back side of the board, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 11, except: they will have the number '750L05' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matter! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part. Otherwise, follow the same procedure here as will the other parts: install, bend the leads over on the back side of the board, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Current Regulators ===<br />
These regulators will look very similar to the 5 Volt Regulator in step 12. Identical, in fact, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them.<br />
<br />
Install these in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matter! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
As usual, install, bend the leads on the back, solder, and trim off the excess wire.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it. We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label).<br />
<br />
Orientation doesn't matter with this part, so you can just drop it in, bend the leads, solder, and trim any excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Other Capacitor ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in). These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4.<br />
<br />
Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop it in, bend the leads, solder, and trim any excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board. Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board.<br />
<br />
Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Optional: Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
If you didn't install the Schmitt trigger bypass jumpers in step 8 you should install the Schmitt trigger at this point.<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it, and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, Orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components).<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. You're done with the electrical stuff! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Attach The Display ===<br />
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. The card edge connector at location J1 should be sufficient to align.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Delrin Insulator ===<br />
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display ===<br />
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch nylon washer, 1/2 inch long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch threaded standoff. The washer goes between the display and the driver board, either on top of or under the Delrin insulator (your choice). Pass the 1/2 inch screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw the standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display ===<br />
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch nylon washer, 7/8 inch threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch 6-32 threaded screw. Pass the 3/8 inch screw through the display board and washer, and screw the standoff onto it.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. Really done this time! ===<br />
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=894Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-13T23:45:47Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Big_Digit_Driver Big Digit Driver].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|Data Out Schmitt Trigger Bypass<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
We'll go line by line through the kit components. This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
(Photo here.)<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one!<br />
<br />
Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold). This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
Solder the excess and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5. All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Next, let's install the current sense resistors for all the other segments. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board) and are 16 ohms resistors (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold) and install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a big line across the middle of the board).<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use it in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step five. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have black lines wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint. Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in!<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes in very similar to the resistors above: bend the leads, drop them in place, bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. Optional: Schmitt Trigger Bypass ===<br />
The Big Digit Drivers can be linked in series via the SPI ports on either side of the board. For long runs of digits (three or more) we've included a footprint for a Schmitt trigger - this IC will 'boost' the signals that run down the series of drivers and helps eliminate synchronization issues due to noise and attenuation.<br />
<br />
If, for whatever reason, you don't want to use the Schmitt trigger you can instead install four jumpers in locations JP1, JP2, and JP3 (look in the upper right-hand side of the board). For this we'll use the zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire if you prefer.<br />
<br />
They go in like the resistors above: bend the leads, drop in place, bend leads on back to hold them in place, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
There is no harm is using the Schmitt trigger on short runs of digits and using the bypass jumpers may work just fine for longer runs, but DO NOT use both at the same time! Using both shouldn't cause any damage, but the behavior of digits down the line will be strange and unpredictable.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Optional: SPI header ground connections ===<br />
Since Big Digit Drivers can be wired in series essentially indefinitely, we also include the option of isolating the board from the the ground line on the SPI headers.<br />
<br />
We recommend that you install these jumpers unless you are positive that you need to isolate drivers for some reason. Isolating the ground lines will only be useful to people who are driving a large number of digits for two or more power supplies.<br />
<br />
Once again we'll be using zero ohm 'resistors' - just like above in step 8. We'll be installing them in locations JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board, below the Schmitt trigger bypass) and JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
We don't recommend soldering chips directly to the board, and the kit include sockets for your convenience.<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place).<br />
<br />
Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulators when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board.<br />
<br />
See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
Like the other parts in the kit, bend the leads over on the back side of the board, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 11, except: they will have the number '750L05' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matter! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part. Otherwise, follow the same procedure here as will the other parts: install, bend the leads over on the back side of the board, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Current Regulators ===<br />
These regulators will look very similar to the 5 Volt Regulator in step 12. Identical, in fact, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them.<br />
<br />
Install these in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matter! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
As usual, install, bend the leads on the back, solder, and trim off the excess wire.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it. We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label).<br />
<br />
Orientation doesn't matter with this part, so you can just drop it in, bend the leads, solder, and trim any excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Other Capacitor ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in). These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4.<br />
<br />
Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop it in, bend the leads, solder, and trim any excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board. Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board.<br />
<br />
Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Optional: Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
If you didn't install the Schmitt trigger bypass jumpers in step 8 you should install the Schmitt trigger at this point.<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it, and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, Orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components).<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. You're done! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Plug it in and have fun!</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions&diff=893Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions2011-06-13T23:41:48Z<p>Dhembry: Created page with "This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Big_Digit_Driver Big Digit Driver]. == Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the ..."</p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Big_Digit_Driver Big Digit Driver].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" ||Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|EMS Part #<br />
|Quantity per Board<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
|N/A<br />
|PCB<br />
|Big Digit Driver board<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|60-0027<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R25<br />
|Current Sense Resistor for DP<br />
|22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|24QBK-ND<br />
|10-0010<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R1 through R5<br />
|DP Load Resistors<br />
|68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|68QBK-ND<br />
|10-0019<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23<br />
|Current Sense Resistors<br />
|16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|16QBK-ND<br />
|10-0006<br />
|7<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27<br />
|Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor<br />
|1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1.0KQBK-ND<br />
|10-0007<br />
|9<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|D1, D2<br />
|Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)<br />
|1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1N4740A-ND<br />
|34-0012<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register Socket<br />
|16 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|A100206-ND<br />
|22-0008<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger Socket<br />
|14 pin 0.3" Socket<br />
|Digikey<br />
|3M5462-ND<br />
|22-0006<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|JP1 thru JP5<br />
|Data Out Schmitt Trigger Bypass<br />
|Zero ohm 'Resistors'<br />
|Digikey<br />
|0.0QTR-ND<br />
|10-0023<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|Q1 thru Q8<br />
|Digital Control Transistors<br />
|2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|2N3904-APCT-ND<br />
|34-0009<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|U1 thru U8<br />
|Current Regulators<br />
|LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|LM317LZ-ND<br />
|34-0010<br />
|8<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|U11<br />
|Linear Regulator<br />
|TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-8002-5-ND<br />
|34-0002<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|C2<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|10uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|445-4816-ND<br />
|11-0016<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|C1, C3, C4<br />
|Bypass Capacitors<br />
|0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|BC1148TR-ND <br />
|11-0001<br />
|3<br />
|----<br />
|15<br />
|LED1<br />
|Power LED<br />
|3mm Yellow LED<br />
|Digikey<br />
|754-1212-ND<br />
|33-0030<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|16<br />
|J2, J3<br />
|Screw Terminal<br />
|2 position euro-style screw terminal<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|ED2635-ND<br />
|25-0002<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|17<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|SPI Headers<br />
|6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|609-3202-ND<br />
|20-0005<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|18<br />
|J4<br />
|Power Jack<br />
|2.1mm ID Barrel Jack<br />
|Digikey<br />
|CP-002AH-ND<br />
|20-0015<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|19<br />
|U9<br />
|Shift Register<br />
|74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|568-1560-5-ND<br />
|31-0004<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|20<br />
|U10<br />
|Schmitt Trigger<br />
|74ACT14, 16DIP<br />
|Digikey<br />
|296-4368-5-ND<br />
|31-0006<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|21<br />
|J1<br />
|Display Connector<br />
|11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector<br />
|Digikey<br />
|EBM11DSAN-ND<br />
|29-0002<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|22<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, 7/8" round<br />
|Digikey<br />
|1848K-ND<br />
|51-0009<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|23<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom Standoffs<br />
|Standoff, round, 3/4"<br />
|DigiKey<br />
|3488K-ND<br />
|51-0012<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|24<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top Standoff Washers<br />
|1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw<br />
|McMaster<br />
|90295A090<br />
|51-0019<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|25<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs<br />
|1/8" tall Nylon standoff<br />
|McMaster<br />
|94639A407<br />
|51-0020<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|26<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws<br />
|Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A148<br />
|52-0030<br />
|6<br />
|----<br />
|27<br />
|N/A<br />
|Display Top<br />
|Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"<br />
|McMaster<br />
|92949A146<br />
|52-0011<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|28<br />
|N/A<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|Delrin Insulator<br />
|EMS<br />
|N/A<br />
|61-0026<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
We'll go line by line through the kit components. This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
(Photo here.)<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor ===<br />
Let's start with an easy one!<br />
<br />
Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold). This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Bend the leads as shown.<br />
<br />
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
Solder the excess and clip off the extra wire.<br />
<br />
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors ===<br />
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.<br />
<br />
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5. All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Bend the leads...<br />
<br />
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...<br />
<br />
Solder and clip!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. Other Current Sense Resistors === <br />
Next, let's install the current sense resistors for all the other segments. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board) and are 16 ohms resistors (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Base resistors ===<br />
Getting the hang of this? Great!<br />
<br />
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold) and install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a big line across the middle of the board).<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use it in step 6!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. LED Resistor ===<br />
Last resistor, we promise!<br />
<br />
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step five. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Zener Diodes ===<br />
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!<br />
<br />
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?<br />
<br />
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have black lines wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?<br />
<br />
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint. Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in!<br />
<br />
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes in very similar to the resistors above: bend the leads, drop them in place, bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. Optional: Schmitt Trigger Bypass ===<br />
The Big Digit Drivers can be linked in series via the SPI ports on either side of the board. For long runs of digits (three or more) we've included a footprint for a Schmitt trigger - this IC will 'boost' the signals that run down the series of drivers and helps eliminate synchronization issues due to noise and attenuation.<br />
<br />
If, for whatever reason, you don't want to use the Schmitt trigger you can instead install four jumpers in locations JP1, JP2, and JP3 (look in the upper right-hand side of the board). For this we'll use the zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire if you prefer.<br />
<br />
They go in like the resistors above: bend the leads, drop in place, bend leads on back to hold them in place, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
There is no harm is using the Schmitt trigger on short runs of digits and using the bypass jumpers may work just fine for longer runs, but DO NOT use both at the same time! Using both shouldn't cause any damage, but the behavior of digits down the line will be strange and unpredictable.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. Optional: SPI header ground connections ===<br />
Since Big Digit Drivers can be wired in series essentially indefinitely, we also include the option of isolating the board from the the ground line on the SPI headers.<br />
<br />
We recommend that you install these jumpers unless you are positive that you need to isolate drivers for some reason. Isolating the ground lines will only be useful to people who are driving a large number of digits for two or more power supplies.<br />
<br />
Once again we'll be using zero ohm 'resistors' - just like above in step 8. We'll be installing them in locations JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board, below the Schmitt trigger bypass) and JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets ===<br />
We don't recommend soldering chips directly to the board, and the kit include sockets for your convenience.<br />
<br />
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.<br />
<br />
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place).<br />
<br />
Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.<br />
<br />
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!<br />
<br />
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulators when you mount the display.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. Digital Control Transistors ===<br />
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.<br />
<br />
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board.<br />
<br />
See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.<br />
<br />
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.<br />
<br />
Like the other parts in the kit, bend the leads over on the back side of the board, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator ===<br />
These will look similar to the transistors in step 11, except: they will have the number '750L05' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.<br />
<br />
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').<br />
<br />
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matter! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part. Otherwise, follow the same procedure here as will the other parts: install, bend the leads over on the back side of the board, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. Current Regulators ===<br />
These regulators will look very similar to the 5 Volt Regulator in step 12. Identical, in fact, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them.<br />
<br />
Install these in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matter! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).<br />
<br />
As usual, install, bend the leads on the back, solder, and trim off the excess wire.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 14. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor ===<br />
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it. We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label).<br />
<br />
Orientation doesn't matter with this part, so you can just drop it in, bend the leads, solder, and trim any excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 15. Other Capacitor ===<br />
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in). These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4.<br />
<br />
Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop it in, bend the leads, solder, and trim any excess.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 16. Power Indicator Lamp ===<br />
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.<br />
<br />
Note that orientation matters for this part: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 17. Screw Terminal Power Connectors ===<br />
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.<br />
<br />
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board. Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.<br />
<br />
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 18. SPI headers ===<br />
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board.<br />
<br />
Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 19. DC Power Barrel Jack ===<br />
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.<br />
<br />
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 20. Insert Shift Register ===<br />
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.<br />
<br />
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 21. Optional: Insert Schmitt Trigger ===<br />
If you didn't install the Schmitt trigger bypass jumpers in step 8 you should install the Schmitt trigger at this point.<br />
<br />
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it, and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, Orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Display connector ===<br />
Almost done!<br />
<br />
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.<br />
<br />
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the ''back'' of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components).<br />
<br />
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. You're done! ===<br />
Good work, the board is finished. Plug it in and have fun!</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Big_Digit_Driver&diff=892Big Digit Driver2011-06-13T23:38:52Z<p>Dhembry: Created page with "This page is a central site for documentation of the Evil Mad Science Big Digit Driver kit. Main details about the Big Digit Driver kit: * Announcement article at Evil Mad Sci..."</p>
<hr />
<div>This page is a central site for documentation of the Evil Mad Science Big Digit Driver kit. <br />
<br />
<br />
Main details about the Big Digit Driver kit:<br />
* Announcement article at Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories - coming soon!<br />
* Store page at Evil Mad Science - coming soon!<br />
<br />
<br />
Essential Documentation:<br />
* Kit Assembly Instructions and Bill of Materials are [[Big_Digit_Driver_Assembly_Instructions|located here]].<br />
* Basic information on using the Big Digit Driver is [[Using_The_Big_Digit_Driver|over here]].<br />
<br />
<br />
Open Source Hardware documentation for the Big Digit Driver:<br />
* Electrical schematics are coming soon!<br />
* Circuit board design and electrical schematics in [http://www.gpleda.org/index.html gEDA] format are coming soon!<br />
<br />
Places for questions, answers, and sharing experiences: <br />
* [http://www.evilmadscientist.com/forum/index.php?forum=8 Forum] at Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories<br />
* [http://www.flickr.com/groups/evilmadscience/ Evil Mad Science Auxiliary Flickr Group] where you can share photos of your ISP Shields in action!</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Using_The_ISP_Shield_2&diff=885Using The ISP Shield 22011-06-04T01:10:28Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page covers basic usage of the Evil Mad Science [[ISP_Shield_2|ISP Shield 2.0]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== ...To program the Arduino Bootloader onto an ATmega168/ATmega328 ==<br />
<br />
#Attach the ISP Shield 2.0 to the Arduino<br />
#Connect the Arduino to your computer and bring up the Arduino IDE<br />
#If necessary, configure the Arduino IDE for your Arduino or Arduino clone<br />
#In the '''File''' menu, select '''Examples''', and open the '''ArduinoISP''' sketch<br />
#Upload this sketch to your Arduino or Arduino clone<br />
#At this time place an ATmega168 or ATmega328 into the ZIF socket on the ISP Shield 2.0 and lock it in place<br />
#In the '''Tools''' menu, select '''Board''', and select either:<br />
#* '''Arduino Duemilanove or Nano w/ ATmega328''' if you are programing an ATmega328<br />
#* '''Arduino Diecimila, Duemilanove, or Nano w/ ATmega168''' if you are programing an ATmega168<br />
#In the '''Tools''' menu, select '''Burn Bootloader''', and select '''w/ Arduino as ISP'''<br />
<br />
<br />
== ...To program the Arduino Bootloader onto an ATmega168/ATmega328 located on an external target board ==<br />
<br />
You can also use the ISP Shield 2.0 to program the Arduino bootloader onto an external target board, providing that the target is Arduino compatible and has a standard 6-pin* AVR ISP programming header. <br />
<br />
Follow the instructions above, however instead of placing a microcontroller into the ZIF socket connect the ISP Shield 2.0 to the target board with a 6 pin (2x3 DIL) ribbon cable. Be sure to get the orientation correct; pin 1 is marked with an arrow on the ISP Shield 2.0 circuit board.<br />
<br />
In addition, make sure that the target power jumper is set correctly on the ISP Shield 2.0. If your target board has its own power, the jumper (location J5) should be set to 'Nope', like so:<br />
<br />
http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/27.jpg<br />
<br />
It is important to make sure that your target is genuinely Arduino compatible, and that you select the appropriate target board type from the Arduino Tools menu.<br />
If you are programming an ATmega168 your target board will need the appropriate crystal and related capacitors.<br />
If you are programming an ATmega328 your target board may have an appropriate crystal and related capacitors. However if you wish to use the internal oscillator instead you need to install support for an additional hardware configuration. Check the [http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoToBreadboard From Arduino to a Microcontroller on a Breadboard] tutorial by the Arduino Team - under the '''Minimal Circuit (Eliminating the External Clock)''' section there are instructions for downloading and installing the '''ATmega328 on a breadboard (8 MHz internal clock)''' hardware configuration in the Arduino IDE. Once installed, select this Board type when programming an ATmega328 on an external target board that has no crystal.<br />
<br />
<br />
== ...To use the ISP Shield 2.0 in place of an AVR ISP ==<br />
<br />
The ArduinoISP sketch mimics the [http://www.atmel.com/ Atmel] [http://www.atmel.com/dyn/products/tools_card.asp?tool_id=2726 AVRISP] programmer. The Arduino IDE won't let you use it to upload sketches, but you can use [http://savannah.nongnu.org/projects/avrdude avrdude] to upload compiled programs to an ATmega168/ATmega328 via the ISP Shield 2.0 ZIF socket or either of the ISP headers.<br />
<br />
When using an Arduino and ArduinoISP in this capacity the avrdude programmer type should be set to 'avrisp'. If you are using Windows avrdude may not be able to use the Arduino unless it is attached to COM port 9 (COM9) or lower. To change the port number that a device is attached to first locate it in the Device Manager: in the '''System Properties''' control panel, select the '''Hardware''' tab, then click the '''Device Manager''' button, and finally expand the '''Ports (COM & LPT)''' item. Right click the appropriate device for your Arduino and select '''Properties''' option, select the '''Port Settings''' tab, and click the button labeled '''Advanced...'''. Select a new unused port in the '''COM Port Number''' drop-down selection box.<br />
<br />
Check the avrdude webpage for complete instructions and documentation regarding the use of avrdude.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Know Issue With Auto-Reset ==<br />
<br />
There is a [http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Code/MegaISP known issue] with auto-reset (a common feature on Arduino boards) and the ArduinoISP technique. You may, for example, get the "not in sync: resp=0x15" error message. If so, you may need to disable auto-reset. The ISP Shield 2.0 has a resistor on board for this eventuality.<br />
<br />
Locate header J6 on the ISP Shield 2.0 and connect a jumper across the top and middle pins to override auto-reset, like so:<br />
<br />
http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/28.jpg<br />
<br />
Connecting a jumper across the bottom two pins (or leaving the jumper off entirely) will allow the Arduino board to function normally:<br />
<br />
http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/29.jpg</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=ISP_Shield_2_Assembly_Instructions&diff=884ISP Shield 2 Assembly Instructions2011-06-04T01:00:09Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[ISP_Shield_2|ISP Shield 2.0]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
| n/a<br />
|PCB for ISP Shield 2.0<br />
|Printed circuit board<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/tinykitlist/254 681]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R1<br />
|Reset line pull-up resistor<br />
|10k, 1/6 W<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=10KETR-ND 10KETR-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R2 thru R6<br />
|Reset and LED load resistors<br />
|1000 ohm, 1/4 W<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=1.0KQBK-ND 1.0KQBK-ND]<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R7<br />
|Auto-reset overrride resistor<br />
|100 ohm, 1/4 W<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=100QBK-ND 100QBK-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|Target Power Enable, Auto-Reset Overrride (Header)<br />
|6 pin right-angle header, 0.1” spacing<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=SAM1043-06-ND SAM1043-06-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|PROG, ERROR, PULSE, HELLO<br />
|Indicator LED<br />
|3mm, Diffused Yellow<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/89-led#3mmdiff 357]<br />
|4<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|XTL<br />
|Crystal<br />
|16 MHz<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=XC1721-ND XC1721-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|C2, C3<br />
|Capacitors for crystal<br />
|18pF, 50 V ceramic<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BC1004CT-ND BC1004CT-ND]<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|C1<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|0.1uF Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BC1148CT-ND BC1148TR-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|S1<br />
|Reset Switch<br />
|Tactile pushbutton switch<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=679-2452-ND 679-2452-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|ISP6<br />
|6 pin ISP Header<br />
|2x3 pin 0.1” spaced DIL header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=609-3202-ND 609-3202-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|J1 thru J4<br />
|Header set, 6-pin (2 pcs), 8-pin (2 pcs)<br />
|Stacking type header, 0.1” spacing<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/251 633]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|U1<br />
|ZIF DIP Socket<br />
|28 pin, 0.3" pin spacing<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/54-zif20 212]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|J5, J6 (jumper)<br />
|Target Power Enable, Auto-Reset Override (Jumper)<br />
|2 pin jumper block, 0.1” spacing<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=A26242-ND A26242-ND]<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
We'll go line by line through the kit components. This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [[Bulbdial|Bulbdial clock]] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 0. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/02.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the various locations labeled on the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. Install the 10k resistor and 100 ohm resistor ===<br />
<br />
http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/03.jpg<br />
<br />
There are three types of resistor in the kit:<br />
* The 10k "pull-up" resistor is the one resistor that is ''physically smaller'' than the others. It has a color code of brown-black-orange-gold.<br />
* There is also only one 100 ohm resistor. That's the "middle" one in the picture above. It has a color code of brown-black-brown-gold. <br />
* There are five 1k resistors. Their color code is brown-black-red-gold. Rather than reading the color codes, just note that these are the ''five identical resistors''. In the kit, these may be taped or bagged to separate them from the other resistors.<br />
<br />
<br />
Install the 10k "pull-up" resistor (again, the smaller one) in location R1. Solder both pins, and clip the excess leads short on the back side. (Orientation: either way; resistors are not directional.) Then, install the 100 ohm resistor at location R7. Again, solder both pins and clip the excess leads short.<br />
<br />
When you've finished adding these two resistors, your board should look like this:<br />
<br />
http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/04.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Install the 1k resistors ===<br />
<br />
http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/05.jpg<br />
<br />
Next, install the 1k resistors. There are five of these resistors, that go in locations R2, R3, R4, R5, R6-- the other places where resistors are visible in the photo above-- and are installed with the same technique as the last resistors. <br />
<br />
The color code on these is Black-Brown-Red-Gold, but more importantly, these are the remaining ''five identical resistors''.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. The six pin right angle header ===<br />
<br />
<br />
This six-pin header is installed across locations J5 and J6. The short, angled end of the connector drops into the row of holes at location as shown:<br />
<br />
http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/07.jpg<br />
<br />
http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/08.jpg<br />
<br />
The pins are thick and do not bend easily. So, there is a trick that you can use to prevent the header from falling out of the board when you turn it over to solder it in place, and to make sure that it ends up squarely in place.<br />
<br />
First, carefully solder just one pin to the board as shown above. (We suggest the one with the square pad.) Then, make sure the long pins on the header are parallel with the board and that the header is fully seated on the board: the black plastic block should be flush to the board. If this is not the case, carefully reheat the soldered joint and adjust the header as needed. Be careful-- it will be hot!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/09.jpg<br />
<br />
Once the header is lined up flip the board over and solder all the other five pins to the board. (You can solder all six from the bottom, but remember to start with one of the holes that isn't the square-pad one!) Trimming the header pins on the back side is optional (they may interfere with the DC barrel jack on an Arduino board and prevent the shield from laying flat).<br />
<br />
<br />
Your board should look like this now:<br />
<br />
http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/10.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. The LEDs === <br />
There are four identical LEDs included with the kit, that go in the locations labeled PROG, ERROR, PULSE, and HELLO. <br />
<br />
Orientation is important: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''. <br />
<br />
http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/12.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
Solder them in place and clip the leads short. After inserting the LEDs but before soldering, you can bend the leads out at 45 degrees to hold an LED in place while you solder.<br />
<br />
http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/14.jpg<br />
<br />
If everything is correct, the flat faces of each LED will appear as shown above. <br />
<br />
<br />
Your board should look like this:<br />
<br />
http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/13.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. The Crystal and Capacitors ===<br />
<br />
http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/15.jpg<br />
<br />
This quartz crystal is contained in a shiny metal can-- shaped like a stainless-steel twinkie rejected by a robot smurf -- with two prongs. The two prongs go in the outer two holes (not the middle hole) of location XTL on the circuit board. It is not directional; it can go in either way. As before, solder it in place and clip the leads.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. 18 pF ceramic capacitors ===<br />
<br />
http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/16.jpg<br />
<br />
These are two tiny yellow devices, ''marked with a black stripe'' to label them. The go in locations C2 and C3, on either side of the crystal. They are not directional; they can go in either way. Solder both in place and trim their leads.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. 0.1 uF ceramic capacitor ===<br />
<br />
There is only one, and it goes in location C1. It looks just like the 18 pF capacitor, but without the black stripe. It is not directional; it can go in either way. Solder it in place and clip the leads.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. Reset switch ===<br />
<br />
There is only one, and it goes in location RESET. It ''snaps'' into the board-- make sure that it sits flush. It is not directional; it can go in either way. Solder it in place. The leads are short and do not need trimming.<br />
<br />
<br />
Having added the capacitor in the last step and now the switch, your board should look like this:<br />
<br />
http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/17.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. The 6-pin ISP Header ===<br />
The ISP header is a two by three block of straight pins. It should drop right into location ISP6.<br />
<br />
Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. <br />
<br />
Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back.<br />
<br />
http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/18.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. The 'Stackable' Headers ===<br />
The ISP Shield is intended to be used as a 'shield' with an Arduino or Arduino-compatible board, and so it comes with the appropriate 'stacking' headers.<br />
<br />
The six pin headers go in locations J2 and J4, while the eight pin headers go in locations J1 and J3.<br />
<br />
To add these, we recommend inserting all four headers and then resting the board-- upside down --on the four headers, so that they sit flush to the board. Solder one end pin of each first. Flip the board back over and check that the pins are perpendicular to the board. Make sure the headers aren't 'twisted' in their sockets - make sure the edges of the socket are parallel with the silkscreen outline on the board.<br />
<br />
If any header/socket isn't aligned correctly, heat up the solder on the single soldered pin and adjust the header/socket as needed.<br />
<br />
Once everything is aligned, flip the board back over and solder the rest of the pins. Try to use a minimal amount of solder, so that solder does not wick down onto the pins, as that could potentially cause difficulty inserting the shield into an otherwise receptive Arduino board.<br />
<br />
http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/19.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. The ZIF Socket ===<br />
This socket goes in location U1 on the circuit board. Orientation is very important: The side with the lever sits above the end of the chip with the "half moon" indentation on the circuit board drawing. In other words, the lever is on the side closer to where it says "ISP Shield."<br />
<br />
Press the socket flush to the board. If you lower the lever, you can rest the board upside down on the ZIF socket while you solder the pins in place. The leads on the back side are short enough that they do not need to be trimmed. <br />
<br />
http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/21.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Add Function Jumpers ===<br />
Push the jumpers onto the six pin header at location J5 and J6.<br />
<br />
http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/22.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. You're Done! ===<br />
<br />
http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/01.jpg<br />
<br />
http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/23.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
That's it! You did it! <br />
<br />
Next, go take a look at the [[Using The ISP Shield 2|usage instructions]].</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=ISP_Shield_2_Assembly_Instructions&diff=883ISP Shield 2 Assembly Instructions2011-06-04T00:53:25Z<p>Dhembry: 6-pin header trimming is optional</p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[ISP_Shield_2|ISP Shield 2.0]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
| n/a<br />
|PCB for ISP Shield 2.0<br />
|Printed circuit board<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/tinykitlist/254 681]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R1<br />
|Reset line pull-up resistor<br />
|10k, 1/6 W<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=10KETR-ND 10KETR-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R2 thru R6<br />
|Reset and LED load resistors<br />
|1000 ohm, 1/4 W<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=1.0KQBK-ND 1.0KQBK-ND]<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R7<br />
|Auto-reset overrride resistor<br />
|100 ohm, 1/4 W<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=100QBK-ND 100QBK-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|Target Power Enable, Auto-Reset Overrride (Header)<br />
|6 pin right-angle header, 0.1” spacing<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=SAM1043-06-ND SAM1043-06-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|PROG, ERROR, PULSE, HELLO<br />
|Indicator LED<br />
|3mm, Diffused Yellow<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/89-led#3mmdiff 357]<br />
|4<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|XTL<br />
|Crystal<br />
|16 MHz<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=XC1721-ND XC1721-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|C2, C3<br />
|Capacitors for crystal<br />
|18pF, 50 V ceramic<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BC1004CT-ND BC1004CT-ND]<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|C1<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|0.1uF Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BC1148CT-ND BC1148TR-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|S1<br />
|Reset Switch<br />
|Tactile pushbutton switch<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=679-2452-ND 679-2452-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|ISP6<br />
|6 pin ISP Header<br />
|2x3 pin 0.1” spaced DIL header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=609-3202-ND 609-3202-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|J1 thru J4<br />
|Header set, 6-pin (2 pcs), 8-pin (2 pcs)<br />
|Stacking type header, 0.1” spacing<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/251 633]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|U1<br />
|ZIF DIP Socket<br />
|28 pin, 0.3" pin spacing<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/54-zif20 212]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|J5, J6 (jumper)<br />
|Target Power Enable, Auto-Reset Override (Jumper)<br />
|2 pin jumper block, 0.1” spacing<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=A26242-ND A26242-ND]<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
We'll go line by line through the kit components. This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [[Bulbdial|Bulbdial clock]] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 0. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/02.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the various locations labeled on the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. Install the 10k resistor and 100 ohm resistor ===<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/03.jpg<br />
<br />
There are three types of resistor in the kit:<br />
* The 10k "pull-up" resistor is the one resistor that is ''physically smaller'' than the others. It has a color code of brown-black-orange-gold.<br />
* There is also only one 100 ohm resistor. That's the "middle" one in the picture above. It has a color code of brown-black-brown-gold. <br />
* There are five 1k resistors. Their color code is brown-black-red-gold. Rather than reading the color codes, just note that these are the ''five identical resistors''. In the kit, these may be taped or bagged to separate them from the other resistors.<br />
<br />
<br />
Install the 10k "pull-up" resistor (again, the smaller one) in location R1. Solder both pins, and clip the excess leads short on the back side. (Orientation: either way; resistors are not directional.) Then, install the 100 ohm resistor at location R7. Again, solder both pins and clip the excess leads short.<br />
<br />
When you've finished adding these two resistors, your board should look like this:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/04.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. Install the 1k resistors ===<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/05.jpg<br />
<br />
Next, install the 1k resistors. There are five of these resistors, that go in locations R2, R3, R4, R5, R6-- the other places where resistors are visible in the photo above-- and are installed with the same technique as the last resistors. <br />
<br />
The color code on these is Black-Brown-Red-Gold, but more importantly, these are the remaining ''five identical resistors''.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. The six pin right angle header ===<br />
<br />
<br />
This six-pin header is installed across locations J5 and J6. The short, angled end of the connector drops into the row of holes at location as shown:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/07.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/08.jpg<br />
<br />
The pins are thick and do not bend easily. So, there is a trick that you can use to prevent the header from falling out of the board when you turn it over to solder it in place, and to make sure that it ends up squarely in place.<br />
<br />
First, carefully solder just one pin to the board as shown above. (We suggest the one with the square pad.) Then, make sure the long pins on the header are parallel with the board and that the header is fully seated on the board: the black plastic block should be flush to the board. If this is not the case, carefully reheat the soldered joint and adjust the header as needed. Be careful-- it will be hot!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/09.jpg<br />
<br />
Once the header is lined up flip the board over and solder all the other five pins to the board. (You can solder all six from the bottom, but remember to start with one of the holes that isn't the square-pad one!) Trimming the header pins on the back side is optional (they may interfere with the DC barrel jack on an Arduino board and prevent the shield from laying flat).<br />
<br />
<br />
Your board should look like this now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/10.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. The LEDs === <br />
There are four identical LEDs included with the kit, that go in the locations labeled PROG, ERROR, PULSE, and HELLO. <br />
<br />
Orientation is important: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/12.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
Solder them in place and clip the leads short. After inserting the LEDs but before soldering, you can bend the leads out at 45 degrees to hold an LED in place while you solder.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/14.jpg<br />
<br />
If everything is correct, the flat faces of each LED will appear as shown above. <br />
<br />
<br />
Your board should look like this:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/13.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. The Crystal and Capacitors ===<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/15.jpg<br />
<br />
This quartz crystal is contained in a shiny metal can-- shaped like a stainless-steel twinkie rejected by a robot smurf -- with two prongs. The two prongs go in the outer two holes (not the middle hole) of location XTL on the circuit board. It is not directional; it can go in either way. As before, solder it in place and clip the leads.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. 18 pF ceramic capacitors ===<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/16.jpg<br />
<br />
These are two tiny yellow devices, ''marked with a black stripe'' to label them. The go in locations C2 and C3, on either side of the crystal. They are not directional; they can go in either way. Solder both in place and trim their leads.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. 0.1 uF ceramic capacitor ===<br />
<br />
There is only one, and it goes in location C1. It looks just like the 18 pF capacitor, but without the black stripe. It is not directional; it can go in either way. Solder it in place and clip the leads.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. Reset switch ===<br />
<br />
There is only one, and it goes in location RESET. It ''snaps'' into the board-- make sure that it sits flush. It is not directional; it can go in either way. Solder it in place. The leads are short and do not need trimming.<br />
<br />
<br />
Having added the capacitor in the last step and now the switch, your board should look like this:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/17.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. The 6-pin ISP Header ===<br />
The ISP header is a two by three block of straight pins. It should drop right into location ISP6.<br />
<br />
Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. <br />
<br />
Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/18.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. The 'Stackable' Headers ===<br />
The ISP Shield is intended to be used as a 'shield' with an Arduino or Arduino-compatible board, and so it comes with the appropriate 'stacking' headers.<br />
<br />
The six pin headers go in locations J2 and J4, while the eight pin headers go in locations J1 and J3.<br />
<br />
To add these, we recommend inserting all four headers and then resting the board-- upside down --on the four headers, so that they sit flush to the board. Solder one end pin of each first. Flip the board back over and check that the pins are perpendicular to the board. Make sure the headers aren't 'twisted' in their sockets - make sure the edges of the socket are parallel with the silkscreen outline on the board.<br />
<br />
If any header/socket isn't aligned correctly, heat up the solder on the single soldered pin and adjust the header/socket as needed.<br />
<br />
Once everything is aligned, flip the board back over and solder the rest of the pins. Try to use a minimal amount of solder, so that solder does not wick down onto the pins, as that could potentially cause difficulty inserting the shield into an otherwise receptive Arduino board.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/19.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. The ZIF Socket ===<br />
This socket goes in location U1 on the circuit board. Orientation is very important: The side with the lever sits above the end of the chip with the "half moon" indentation on the circuit board drawing. In other words, the lever is on the side closer to where it says "ISP Shield."<br />
<br />
Press the socket flush to the board. If you lower the lever, you can rest the board upside down on the ZIF socket while you solder the pins in place. The leads on the back side are short enough that they do not need to be trimmed. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/21.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 12. Add Function Jumpers ===<br />
Push the jumpers onto the six pin header at location J5 and J6.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/22.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 13. You're Done! ===<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/01.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/23.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
That's it! You did it! <br />
<br />
Next, go take a look at the [[Using The ISP Shield 2|usage instructions]].</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=ISP_Shield_2_Assembly_Instructions&diff=863ISP Shield 2 Assembly Instructions2011-06-01T02:19:30Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[ISP_Shield_2|ISP Shield 2.0]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
| n/a<br />
|PCB for ISP Shield 2.0<br />
|Printed circuit board<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/tinykitlist/254 681]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R1<br />
|Reset line pull-up resistor<br />
|10k, 1/6 W<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=10KETR-ND 10KETR-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R2 thru R6<br />
|Reset and LED load resistors<br />
|1000 ohm, 1/4 W<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=1.0KQBK-ND 1.0KQBK-ND]<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R7<br />
|Auto-reset overrride resistor<br />
|100 ohm, 1/4 W<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=100QBK-ND 100QBK-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|Target Power Enable, Auto-Reset Overrride (Header)<br />
|6 pin right-angle header, 0.1” spacing<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=SAM1043-06-ND SAM1043-06-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|PROG, ERROR, PULSE, HELLO<br />
|Indicator LED<br />
|3mm, Diffused Yellow<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/89-led#3mmdiff 357]<br />
|4<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|XTL<br />
|Crystal<br />
|16 MHz<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=XC1721-ND XC1721-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|C2, C3<br />
|Capacitors for crystal<br />
|18pF, 50 V ceramic<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BC1004CT-ND BC1004CT-ND]<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|C1<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|0.1uF Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BC1148CT-ND BC1148TR-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|S1<br />
|Reset Switch<br />
|Tactile pushbutton switch<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=679-2452-ND 679-2452-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|ISP6<br />
|6 pin ISP Header<br />
|2x3 pin 0.1” spaced DIL header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=609-3202-ND 609-3202-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|J1 thru J4<br />
|Header set, 6-pin (2 pcs), 8-pin (2 pcs)<br />
|Stacking type header, 0.1” spacing<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/251 633]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|U1<br />
|ZIF DIP Socket<br />
|28 pin, 0.3" pin spacing<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/54-zif20 212]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|J5, J6 (jumper)<br />
|Target Power Enable, Auto-Reset Override (Jumper)<br />
|2 pin jumper block, 0.1” spacing<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=A26242-ND A26242-ND]<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
We'll go line by line through the kit components. This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [[Bulbdial|Bulbdial clock]] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
(Assembly instructions will be posted by June 1, 2011. Not yet!)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 0. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/02.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The 10k ohm pull-up resistor and 100 ohm auto-reset override resistor ===<br />
The 10,000 ohm pull-up resistor is the smallest resistor in the kit. It has a color pattern of brown-black-orange-gold. Install it in location R1, solder both pins, and clip the excess leads short.<br />
<br />
The 100 ohm auto-reset override resistor has a color pattern of brown-black-brown-gold. Install it in location R7, solder both pins, and clip the excess leads short.<br />
<br />
These resistors may be orientated either way; resistors are not directional.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/04.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. The 1k ohm resistors ===<br />
There are five 1,000 ohm resistors. They have a color pattern of brown-black-red-gold.<br />
<br />
These go into locations R2, R3, R4, R5, and R6.<br />
<br />
Like the resistors above, these may be orientated either way.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/05.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. The six pin right angle header ===<br />
This six-pin header covers the two three-pin function select jumpers.<br />
<br />
The angled end of the header drops into the line of holes at location J5 and J6 as shown:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/07.jpg<br />
<br />
Carefully tack down one pin on the top of the board:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/08.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the long pins on the header are parallel with the board and that the header is fully seated on the board (the black plastic block should be resting on the board).<br />
<br />
If this isn't the case, carefully reheat the soldered joint and adjust the header as needed.<br />
<br />
Once the header is lined up flip the board over and solder all the pins, starting with the pin ''farthest'' from the first pin your soldered.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/09.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
Your board should look like this now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/10.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. The LEDs ===<br />
There are four LEDs to install.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/11.jpg<br />
<br />
Don't worry about mixing them up, they are all the same color. The LEDs go in locations labeled PULSE, PROG, HELLO, and ERROR.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/14.jpg<br />
<br />
Note that the orientation of the LED matters! The long lead on the LED is the positive (or anode) pin. The long pin goes in the hole with the square solder pad, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/12.jpg<br />
<br />
Simply drop each LED in, bend the leads, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
Do this four times and your board should look like this:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/13.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. The Crystal and Capacitors ===<br />
The crystal is the elongated silver can, and goes in location XTL. The orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/15.jpg<br />
<br />
The related capacitors go in locations C2 and C3, on either side of the crystal. The orientation of these doesn't matter either.<br />
<br />
Note the black stripe along the top of each capacitor! Make sure you're using the right ones.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/16.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. The Capacitor and The Switch ===<br />
There is one more capacitor, at location C1. It will look a lot like the capacitors at location C2 and C3 but will not have a black stripe. Don't forget to clip the excess leads on the capacitors.<br />
<br />
The reset switch goes in location RESET. <br />
<br />
You don't need to worry about orientation for either part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/17.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. The 6-pin ISP Header ===<br />
The ISP header is a two by three block of straight pins. It should drop right into location ISP6.<br />
<br />
Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. <br />
<br />
Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/18.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. The 'Stackable' Headers ===<br />
The ISP Shield is intended to be used as a 'shield' with an Arduino or Arduino-compatible board, and so it comes with the appropriate 'stacking' headers.<br />
<br />
The six pin variant goes in locations J2 and J4, while the eight pin variant goes in locations J1 and J3.<br />
<br />
To add these, we recommend inserting all four headers and then resting the board-- upside down --on the four headers, so that they sit flush to the board. Solder one end pin of each first. Flip the board back over and check that the pins are perpendicular to the board. Also make sure the headers aren't 'twisted' in their sockets - make sure the edges of the socket are parallel with the silkscreen outline on the board.<br />
<br />
If any header/socket isn't aligned correctly, heat up the solder on the single soldered pin and adjust the header/socket as needed.<br />
<br />
Once everything is aligned, flip the board back over and solder the rest of the pins. Try to use the minimum of solder, so that solder does not wick either down into the hole (bad!) or onto the pins (also bad!). <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/19.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. The ZIF Socket ===<br />
This socket goes in location U1 on the circuit board. Orientation is very important: The side with the lever sits above the end of the chip with the "half moon" indentation on the circuit board drawing. In other words, the lever is on the side closer to where it says "ISP Shield."<br />
<br />
Press the socket flush to the board. If you lower the lever, you can rest the board upside down on the ZIF socket while you solder the pins in place. The leads on the back side are short enough that they do not need to be trimmed. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/21.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Add Function Jumpers ===<br />
Push the jumpers onto the six pin header at location J5 and J6.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/22.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. You're Done! ===<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/01.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/23.jpg<br />
<br />
Congrats!</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Using_The_ISP_Shield_2&diff=862Using The ISP Shield 22011-06-01T02:16:16Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page covers basic usage of the Evil Mad Science [[ISP_Shield_2|ISP Shield 2.0]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== ...To program the Arduino Bootloader onto an ATmega168/ATmega328 ==<br />
<br />
#Attach the ISP Shield 2.0 to the Arduino<br />
#Connect the Arduino to your computer and bring up the Arduino IDE<br />
#If necessary, configure the Arduino IDE for your Arduino or Arduino clone<br />
#In the '''File''' menu, select '''Examples''', and open the '''ArduinoISP''' sketch<br />
#Upload this sketch to your Arduino or Arduino clone<br />
#At this time place an ATmega168 or ATmega328 into the ZIF socket on the ISP Shield 2.0 and lock it in place<br />
#In the '''Tools''' menu, select '''Board''', and select either:<br />
#* '''Arduino Duemilanove or Nano w/ ATmega328''' if you are programing an ATmega328<br />
#* '''Arduino Diecimila, Duemilanove, or Nano w/ ATmega168''' if you are programing an ATmega168<br />
#In the '''Tools''' menu, select '''Burn Bootloader''', and select '''w/ Arduino as ISP'''<br />
<br />
<br />
== ...To program the Arduino Bootloader onto an ATmega168/ATmega328 located on an external target board ==<br />
<br />
You can also use the ISP Shield 2.0 to program the Arduino bootloader onto an external target board, providing that the target is Arduino compatible and has a standard 6-pin* AVR ISP programming header. <br />
<br />
Follow the instructions above, however instead of placing a microcontroller into the ZIF socket connect the ISP Shield 2.0 to the target board with a 6 pin (2x3 DIL) ribbon cable. Be sure to get the orientation correct; pin 1 is marked with an arrow on the ISP Shield 2.0 circuit board.<br />
<br />
In addition, make sure that the target power jumper is set correctly on the ISP Shield 2.0. If your target board has its own power, the jumper (location J5) should be set to 'Nope', like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/27.jpg<br />
<br />
It is important to make sure that your target is genuinely Arduino compatible, and that you select the appropriate target board type from the Arduino Tools menu.<br />
If you are programming an ATmega168 your target board will need the appropriate crystal and related capacitors.<br />
If you are programming an ATmega328 your target board may have an appropriate crystal and related capacitors. However if you wish to use the internal oscillator instead you need to install support for an additional hardware configuration. Check the [http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoToBreadboard From Arduino to a Microcontroller on a Breadboard] tutorial by the Arduino Team - under the '''Minimal Circuit (Eliminating the External Clock)''' section there are instructions for downloading and installing the '''ATmega328 on a breadboard (8 MHz internal clock)''' hardware configuration in the Arduino IDE. Once installed, select this Board type when programming an ATmega328 on an external target board that has no crystal.<br />
<br />
<br />
== ...To use the ISP Shield 2.0 in place of an AVR ISP ==<br />
<br />
The ArduinoISP sketch mimics the [http://www.atmel.com/ Atmel] [http://www.atmel.com/dyn/products/tools_card.asp?tool_id=2726 AVRISP] programmer. The Arduino IDE won't let you use it to upload sketches, but you can use [http://savannah.nongnu.org/projects/avrdude avrdude] to upload compiled programs to an ATmega168/ATmega328 via the ISP Shield 2.0 ZIF socket or either of the ISP headers.<br />
<br />
When using an Arduino and ArduinoISP in this capacity the avrdude programmer type should be set to 'avrisp'. If you are using Windows avrdude may not be able to use the Arduino unless it is attached to COM port 9 (COM9) or lower. To change the port number that a device is attached to first locate it in the Device Manager: in the '''System Properties''' control panel, select the '''Hardware''' tab, then click the '''Device Manager''' button, and finally expand the '''Ports (COM & LPT)''' item. Right click the appropriate device for your Arduino and select '''Properties''' option, select the '''Port Settings''' tab, and click the button labeled '''Advanced...'''. Select a new unused port in the '''COM Port Number''' drop-down selection box.<br />
<br />
Check the avrdude webpage for complete instructions and documentation regarding the use of avrdude.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Know Issue With Auto-Reset ==<br />
<br />
There is a [http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Code/MegaISP known issue] with auto-reset (a common feature on Arduino boards) and the ArduinoISP technique. You may, for example, get the "not in sync: resp=0x15" error message. If so, you may need to disable auto-reset. The ISP Shield 2.0 has a resistor on board for this eventuality.<br />
<br />
Locate header J6 on the ISP Shield 2.0 and connect a jumper across the top and middle pins to override auto-reset, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/28.jpg<br />
<br />
Connecting a jumper across the bottom two pins (or leaving the jumper off entirely) will allow the Arduino board to function normally:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/29.jpg</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=ISP_Shield_2_Assembly_Instructions&diff=861ISP Shield 2 Assembly Instructions2011-06-01T01:29:58Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[ISP_Shield_2|ISP Shield 2.0]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
| n/a<br />
|PCB for ISP Shield 2.0<br />
|Printed circuit board<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/tinykitlist/254 681]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R1<br />
|Reset line pull-up resistor<br />
|10k, 1/6 W<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=10KETR-ND 10KETR-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R2 thru R6<br />
|Reset and LED load resistors<br />
|1000 ohm, 1/4 W<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=1.0KQBK-ND 1.0KQBK-ND]<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R7<br />
|Auto-reset overrride resistor<br />
|100 ohm, 1/4 W<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=100QBK-ND 100QBK-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|Target Power Enable, Auto-Reset Overrride (Header)<br />
|6 pin right-angle header, 0.1” spacing<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=SAM1043-06-ND SAM1043-06-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|PROG, ERROR, PULSE, HELLO<br />
|Indicator LED<br />
|3mm, Diffused Yellow<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/89-led#3mmdiff 357]<br />
|4<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|XTL<br />
|Crystal<br />
|16 MHz<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=XC1721-ND XC1721-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|C2, C3<br />
|Capacitors for crystal<br />
|18pF, 50 V ceramic<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BC1004CT-ND BC1004CT-ND]<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|C1<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|0.1uF Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BC1148CT-ND BC1148TR-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|S1<br />
|Reset Switch<br />
|Tactile pushbutton switch<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=679-2452-ND 679-2452-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|ISP6<br />
|6 pin ISP Header<br />
|2x3 pin 0.1” spaced DIL header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=609-3202-ND 609-3202-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|J1 thru J4<br />
|Header set, 6-pin (2 pcs), 8-pin (2 pcs)<br />
|Stacking type header, 0.1” spacing<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/251 633]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|U1<br />
|ZIF DIP Socket<br />
|28 pin, 0.3" pin spacing<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/54-zif20 212]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|J5, J6 (jumper)<br />
|Target Power Enable, Auto-Reset Override (Jumper)<br />
|2 pin jumper block, 0.1” spacing<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=A26242-ND A26242-ND]<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
We'll go line by line through the kit components. This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [[Bulbdial|Bulbdial clock]] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
(Assembly instructions will be posted by June 1, 2011. Not yet!)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 0. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/02.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The 10k ohm pull-up resistor and 100 ohm auto-reset override resistor ===<br />
The 10,000 ohm pull-up resistor is the smallest resistor in the kit. It has a color pattern of brown-black-orange-gold. Install it in location R1, solder both pins, and clip the excess leads short.<br />
<br />
The 100 ohm auto-reset override resistor has a color pattern of brown-black-brown-gold. Install it in location R7, solder both pins, and clip the excess leads short.<br />
<br />
These resistors may be orientated either way; resistors are not directional.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/04.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. The 1k ohm resistors ===<br />
There are five 1,000 ohm resistors. They have a color pattern of brown-black-red-gold.<br />
<br />
These go into locations R2, R3, R4, R5, and R6.<br />
<br />
Like the resistors above, these may be orientated either way.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/05.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. The six pin right angle header ===<br />
This six-pin header covers the two three-pin function select jumpers.<br />
<br />
The angled end of the header drops into the line of holes at location J5 and J6 as shown:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/07.jpg<br />
<br />
Carefully tack down one pin on the top of the board:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/08.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the long pins on the header are parallel with the board and that the header is fully seated on the board (the black plastic block should be resting on the board).<br />
<br />
If this isn't the case, carefully reheat the soldered joint and adjust the header as needed.<br />
<br />
Once the header is lined up flip the board over and solder all the pins, starting with the pin ''farthest'' from the first pin your soldered.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/09.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
Your board should look like this now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/10.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. LEDs ===<br />
There are four LEDs to install.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/11.jpg<br />
<br />
Don't worry about mixing them up, they are all the same color. The LEDs go in locations labeled PULSE, PROG, HELLO, and ERROR.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/14.jpg<br />
<br />
Note that the orientation of the LED matters! The long lead on the LED is the positive (or anode) pin. The long pin goes in the hole with the square solder pad, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/12.jpg<br />
<br />
Simply drop each LED in, bend the leads, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
Do this four times and your board should look like this:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/13.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Crystal and Capacitors ===<br />
The crystal is the elongated silver can, and goes in location XTL. The orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/15.jpg<br />
<br />
The related capacitors go in locations C2 and C3, on either side of the crystal. The orientation of these doesn't matter either.<br />
<br />
Note the black stripe along the top of each capacitor! Make sure you're using the right ones.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/16.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. Capacitor and Switch ===<br />
There is one more capacitor, at location C1. It will look a lot like the capacitors at location C2 and C3 but will not have a black stripe. Don't forget to clip the excess leads on the capacitors.<br />
<br />
The reset switch goes in location RESET. <br />
<br />
You don't need to worry about orientation for either part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/17.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. 6-pin ISP Header ===<br />
The ISP header is a two by three block of straight pins. It should drop right into location ISP6.<br />
<br />
Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. <br />
<br />
Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/18.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. The 'Stackable' Headers ===<br />
The ISP Shield is intended to be used as a 'shield' with an Arduino or Arduino-compatible board, and so it comes with the appropriate 'stacking' headers.<br />
<br />
The six pin variant goes in locations J2 and J4, while the eight pin variant goes in locations J1 and J3.<br />
<br />
To add these, we recommend inserting all four headers and then resting the board-- upside down --on the four headers, so that they sit flush to the board. Solder one end pin of each first. Flip the board back over and check that the pins are perpendicular to the board. Also make sure the headers aren't 'twisted' in their sockets - make sure the edges of the socket are parallel with the silkscreen outline on the board.<br />
<br />
If any header/socket isn't aligned correctly, heat up the solder on the single soldered pin and adjust the header/socket as needed.<br />
<br />
Once everything is aligned, flip the board back over and solder the rest of the pins. Try to use the minimum of solder, so that solder does not wick either down into the hole (bad!) or onto the pins (also bad!). <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/19.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. ZIF Socket ===<br />
This socket goes in location U1 on the circuit board. Orientation is very important: The side with the lever sits above the end of the chip with the "half moon" indentation on the circuit board drawing. In other words, the lever is on the side closer to where it says "ISP Shield."<br />
<br />
Press the socket flush to the board. If you lower the lever, you can rest the board upside down on the ZIF socket while you solder the pins in place. The leads on the back side are short enough that they do not need to be trimmed. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/21.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Add Function Jumper Blocks ===<br />
Push the jumper blocks onto the six pin header at location J5 and J6.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/22.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. You're Done! ===<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/01.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/23.jpg<br />
<br />
Congrats!</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=ISP_Shield_2_Assembly_Instructions&diff=860ISP Shield 2 Assembly Instructions2011-06-01T00:58:50Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[ISP_Shield_2|ISP Shield 2.0]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
| n/a<br />
|PCB for ISP Shield 2.0<br />
|Printed circuit board<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/tinykitlist/254 681]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R1<br />
|Reset line pull-up resistor<br />
|10k, 1/6 W<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=10KETR-ND 10KETR-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R2 thru R6<br />
|Reset and LED load resistors<br />
|1000 ohm, 1/4 W<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=1.0KQBK-ND 1.0KQBK-ND]<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R7<br />
|Auto-reset overrride resistor<br />
|100 ohm, 1/4 W<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=100QBK-ND 100QBK-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|Target Power Enable, Auto-Reset Overrride (Header)<br />
|6 pin right-angle header, 0.1” spacing<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=SAM1043-06-ND SAM1043-06-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|PROG, ERROR, PULSE, HELLO<br />
|Indicator LED<br />
|3mm, Diffused Yellow<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/89-led#3mmdiff 357]<br />
|4<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|XTL<br />
|Crystal<br />
|16 MHz<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=XC1721-ND XC1721-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|C2, C3<br />
|Capacitors for crystal<br />
|18pF, 50 V ceramic<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BC1004CT-ND BC1004CT-ND]<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|C1<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|0.1uF Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BC1148CT-ND BC1148TR-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|S1<br />
|Reset Switch<br />
|Tactile pushbutton switch<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=679-2452-ND 679-2452-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|ISP6<br />
|6 pin ISP Header<br />
|2x3 pin 0.1” spaced DIL header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=609-3202-ND 609-3202-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|J1 thru J4<br />
|Header set, 6-pin (2 pcs), 8-pin (2 pcs)<br />
|Stacking type header, 0.1” spacing<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/251 633]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|U1<br />
|ZIF DIP Socket<br />
|28 pin, 0.3" pin spacing<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/54-zif20 212]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|J5, J6 (jumper)<br />
|Target Power Enable, Auto-Reset Override (Jumper)<br />
|2 pin jumper block, 0.1” spacing<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=A26242-ND A26242-ND]<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
We'll go line by line through the kit components. This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [[Bulbdial|Bulbdial clock]] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
(Assembly instructions will be posted by June 1, 2011. Not yet!)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 0. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/02.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The 10k ohm pull-up resistor and 100 ohm auto-reset override resistor ===<br />
The 10,000 ohm pull-up resistor is the smallest resistor in the kit. It has a color pattern of brown-black-orange-gold. Install it in location R1, solder both pins, and clip the excess leads short.<br />
<br />
The 100 ohm auto-reset override resistor has a color pattern of brown-black-brown-gold. Install it in location R7, solder both pins, and clip the excess leads short.<br />
<br />
These resistors may be orientated either way; resistors are not directional.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/04.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. The 1k ohm resistors ===<br />
There are five 1,000 ohm resistors. They have a color pattern of brown-black-red-gold.<br />
<br />
These go into locations R2, R3, R4, R5, and R6.<br />
<br />
Like the resistors above, these may be orientated either way.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/05.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. The six pin right angle header ===<br />
This six-pin header covers the two three-pin function select jumpers.<br />
<br />
The angled end of the header drops into the line of holes at location J5 and J6 as shown:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/07.jpg<br />
<br />
Carefully tack down one pin on the top of the board:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/08.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the long pins on the header are parallel with the board and that the header is fully seated on the board (the black plastic block should be resting on the board).<br />
<br />
If this isn't the case, carefully reheat the soldered joint and adjust the header as needed.<br />
<br />
Once the header is lined up flip the board over and solder all the pins, starting with the pin ''farthest'' from the first pin your soldered.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/09.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
Your board should look like this now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/10.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. LEDs ===<br />
There are four LEDs to install.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/11.jpg<br />
<br />
Don't worry about mixing them up, they are all the same color. The LEDs go in locations labeled PULSE, PROG, HELLO, and ERROR.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/14.jpg<br />
<br />
Note that the orientation of the LED matters! The long lead on the LED is the positive (or anode) pin. The long pin goes in the hole with the square solder pad, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/12.jpg<br />
<br />
Simply drop each LED in, bend the leads, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
Do this four times and your board should look like this:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/13.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Crystal and Capacitors ===<br />
The crystal is the elongated silver can, and goes in location XTL. The orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/15.jpg<br />
<br />
The related capacitors go in locations C2 and C3, on either side of the crystal. The orientation of these doesn't matter either.<br />
<br />
Note the black stripe along the top of each capacitor! Make sure you're using the right ones.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/16.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. Capacitor and Switch ===<br />
There is one more capacitor, at location C1. It will look a lot like the capacitors at location C2 and C3 but will not have a black stripe. Don't forget to clip the excess leads on the capacitors.<br />
<br />
The reset switch goes in location RESET. <br />
<br />
You don't need to worry about orientation for either part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/17.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. 6-pin ISP Header ===<br />
The ISP header is a two by three block of straight pins. It should drop right into location ISP6.<br />
<br />
Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. <br />
<br />
Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/18.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. The 'Stackable' Headers ===<br />
The ISP Shield is intended to be used as a 'shield' with an Arduino or Arduino-compatible board, and so it comes with the appropriate 'stacking' headers.<br />
<br />
The six pin variant goes in locations J2 and J4, while the eight pin variant goes in locations J1 and J3.<br />
<br />
To add these, we recommend inserting all four headers and then resting the board-- upside down --on the four headers, so that they sit flush to the board. Solder one end pin of each first. Flip the board back over and check that the pins are perpendicular to the board. Also make sure the headers aren't 'twisted' in their sockets - make sure the edges of the socket are parallel with the silkscreen outline on the board.<br />
<br />
If any header/socket isn't aligned correctly, heat up the solder on the single soldered pin and adjust the header/socket as needed.<br />
<br />
Once everything is aligned, flip the board back over and solder the rest of the pins. Try to use the minimum of solder, so that solder does not wick either down into the hole (bad!) or onto the pins (also bad!). <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/19.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. ZIF Socket ===<br />
This socket goes in location U1 on the circuit board. Orientation is very important: The side with the lever sits above the end of the chip with the "half moon" indentation on the circuit board drawing. In other words, the lever is on the side closer to where it says "ISP Shield."<br />
<br />
Press the socket flush to the board. If you lower the lever, you can rest the board upside down on the ZIF socket while you solder the pins in place. The leads on the back side are short enough that they do not need to be trimmed. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/21.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Add Function Jumper Blocks ===<br />
Push the jumper blocks onto the six pin header at location J5 and J6.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/22.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. You're Done! ===<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/23.jpg<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/01.jpg<br />
<br />
Congrats!</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=ISP_Shield_2_Assembly_Instructions&diff=859ISP Shield 2 Assembly Instructions2011-06-01T00:42:18Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[ISP_Shield_2|ISP Shield 2.0]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
| n/a<br />
|PCB for ISP Shield 2.0<br />
|Printed circuit board<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/tinykitlist/254 681]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R1<br />
|Reset line pull-up resistor<br />
|10k, 1/6 W<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=10KETR-ND 10KETR-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R2 thru R6<br />
|Reset and LED load resistors<br />
|1000 ohm, 1/4 W<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=1.0KQBK-ND 1.0KQBK-ND]<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R7<br />
|Auto-reset overrride resistor<br />
|100 ohm, 1/4 W<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=100QBK-ND 100QBK-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|Target Power Enable, Auto-Reset Overrride (Header)<br />
|6 pin right-angle header, 0.1” spacing<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=SAM1043-06-ND SAM1043-06-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|PROG, ERROR, PULSE, HELLO<br />
|Indicator LED<br />
|3mm, Diffused Yellow<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/89-led#3mmdiff 357]<br />
|4<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|XTL<br />
|Crystal<br />
|16 MHz<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=XC1721-ND XC1721-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|C2, C3<br />
|Capacitors for crystal<br />
|18pF, 50 V ceramic<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BC1004CT-ND BC1004CT-ND]<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|C1<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|0.1uF Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BC1148CT-ND BC1148TR-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|S1<br />
|Reset Switch<br />
|Tactile pushbutton switch<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=679-2452-ND 679-2452-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|ISP6<br />
|6 pin ISP Header<br />
|2x3 pin 0.1” spaced DIL header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=609-3202-ND 609-3202-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|J1 thru J4<br />
|Header set, 6-pin (2 pcs), 8-pin (2 pcs)<br />
|Stacking type header, 0.1” spacing<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/251 633]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|U1<br />
|ZIF DIP Socket<br />
|28 pin, 0.3" pin spacing<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/54-zif20 212]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|J5, J6 (jumper)<br />
|Target Power Enable, Auto-Reset Override (Jumper)<br />
|2 pin jumper block, 0.1” spacing<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=A26242-ND A26242-ND]<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
We'll go line by line through the kit components. This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [[Bulbdial|Bulbdial clock]] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
(Assembly instructions will be posted by June 1, 2011. Not yet!)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 0. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/02.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The 10k ohm pull-up resistor and 100 ohm auto-reset override resistor ===<br />
The 10,000 ohm pull-up resistor is the smallest resistor in the kit. It has a color pattern of brown-black-orange-gold. Install it in location R1, solder both pins, and clip the excess leads short.<br />
<br />
The 100 ohm auto-reset override resistor has a color pattern of brown-black-brown-gold. Install it in location R7, solder both pins, and clip the excess leads short.<br />
<br />
These resistors may be orientated either way; resistors are not directional.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/04.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. The 1k ohm resistors ===<br />
There are five 1,000 ohm resistors. They have a color pattern of brown-black-red-gold.<br />
<br />
These go into locations R2, R3, R4, R5, and R6.<br />
<br />
Like the resistors above, these may be orientated either way.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/05.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. The six pin right angle header ===<br />
This six-pin header covers the two three-pin function select jumpers.<br />
<br />
The angled end of the header drops into the line of holes at location J5 and J6 as shown:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/07.jpg<br />
<br />
Carefully tack down one pin on the top of the board:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/08.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the long pins on the header are parallel with the board and that the header is fully seated on the board (the black plastic block should be resting on the board).<br />
<br />
If this isn't the case, carefully reheat the soldered joint and adjust the header as needed.<br />
<br />
Once the header is lined up flip the board over and solder all the pins, starting with the pin ''farthest'' from the first pin your soldered.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/09.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
Your board should look like this now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/10.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. LEDs ===<br />
There are four LEDs to install.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/11.jpg<br />
<br />
Don't worry about mixing them up, they are all the same color. The LEDs go in locations labeled PULSE, PROG, HELLO, and ERROR.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/14.jpg<br />
<br />
Note that the orientation of the LED matters! The long lead on the LED is the positive (or anode) pin. The long pin goes in the hole with the square solder pad, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/12.jpg<br />
<br />
Simply drop each LED in, bend the leads, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
Do this four times and your board should look like this:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/13.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. Crystal and Capacitors ===<br />
The crystal is the elongated silver can, and goes in location XTL. The orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/15.jpg<br />
<br />
The related capacitors go in locations C2 and C3, on either side of the crystal. The orientation of these doesn't matter either.<br />
<br />
Note the black stripe along the top of each capacitor! Make sure you're using the right ones.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/16.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. Capacitor and Switch ===<br />
There is one more capacitor, at location C1. It will look a lot like the capacitors at location C2 and C3 but will not have a black stripe. Don't forget to clip the excess leads on the capacitors.<br />
<br />
The reset switch goes in location RESET. <br />
<br />
You don't need to worry about orientation for either part.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/17.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. 6-pin ISP Header ===<br />
The ISP header is a two by three block of straight pins. It should drop right into location ISP6.<br />
<br />
Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. <br />
<br />
Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/18.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 8. The 'Stackable' Headers ===<br />
The ISP Shield is intended to be used as a 'shield' with an Arduino or Arduino-compatible board, and so it comes with the appropriate 'stacking' headers.<br />
<br />
The six pin variant goes in locations J2 and J4, while the eight pin variant goes in locations J1 and J3.<br />
<br />
To add these, we recommend inserting all four headers and then resting the board-- upside down --on the four headers, so that they sit flush to the board. Solder one end pin of each first. Flip the board back over and check that the pins are perpendicular to the board. Also make sure the headers aren't 'twisted' in their sockets - make sure the edges of the socket are parallel with the silkscreen outline on the board.<br />
<br />
If any header/socket isn't aligned correctly, heat up the solder on the single soldered pin and adjust the header/socket as needed.<br />
<br />
Once everything is aligned, flip the board back over and solder the rest of the pins. Try to use the minimum of solder, so that solder does not wick either down into the hole (bad!) or onto the pins (also bad!). <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/19.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 9. ZIF Socket ===<br />
This socket goes in location U1 on the circuit board. Orientation is very important: The side with the lever sits above the end of the chip with the "half moon" indentation on the circuit board drawing. In other words, the lever is on the side closer to where it says "ISP Shield."<br />
<br />
Press the socket flush to the board. If you lower the lever, you can rest the board upside down on the ZIF socket while you solder the pins in place. The leads on the back side are short enough that they do not need to be trimmed. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/21.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 10. Add Function Jumper Blocks ===<br />
Push the jumper blocks onto the six pin header at location J5 and J6.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/22.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 11. You're Done! ===<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/23.jpg<br />
<br />
Congrats!</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=ISP_Shield_2_Assembly_Instructions&diff=858ISP Shield 2 Assembly Instructions2011-05-31T23:36:20Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div>This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [[ISP_Shield_2|ISP Shield 2.0]].<br />
<br />
== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" ==<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" |<br />
|Line<br />
|Ref Des<br />
|Description<br />
|Type<br />
|Vendor<br />
|Vendor Part Number<br />
|Quantity<br />
|----<br />
|1<br />
| n/a<br />
|PCB for ISP Shield 2.0<br />
|Printed circuit board<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/tinykitlist/254 681]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|2<br />
|R1<br />
|Reset line pull-up resistor<br />
|10k, 1/6 W<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=10KETR-ND 10KETR-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|3<br />
|R2 thru R6<br />
|Reset and LED load resistors<br />
|1000 ohm, 1/4 W<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=1.0KQBK-ND 1.0KQBK-ND]<br />
|5<br />
|----<br />
|4<br />
|R7<br />
|Auto-reset overrride resistor<br />
|100 ohm, 1/4 W<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=100QBK-ND 100QBK-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|5<br />
|J5, J6<br />
|Target Power Enable, Auto-Reset Overrride (Header)<br />
|6 pin right-angle header, 0.1” spacing<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=SAM1043-06-ND SAM1043-06-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|6<br />
|PROG, ERROR, PULSE, HELLO<br />
|Indicator LED<br />
|3mm, Diffused Yellow<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/89-led#3mmdiff 357]<br />
|4<br />
|----<br />
|7<br />
|XTL<br />
|Crystal<br />
|16 MHz<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=XC1721-ND XC1721-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|8<br />
|C2, C3<br />
|Capacitors for crystal<br />
|18pF, 50 V ceramic<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BC1004CT-ND BC1004CT-ND]<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|9<br />
|C1<br />
|Bypass Capacitor<br />
|0.1uF Capacitor<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BC1148CT-ND BC1148TR-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|10<br />
|S1<br />
|Reset Switch<br />
|Tactile pushbutton switch<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=679-2452-ND 679-2452-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|11<br />
|ISP6<br />
|6 pin ISP Header<br />
|2x3 pin 0.1” spaced DIL header<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=609-3202-ND 609-3202-ND]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|12<br />
|J1 thru J4<br />
|Header set, 6-pin (2 pcs), 8-pin (2 pcs)<br />
|Stacking type header, 0.1” spacing<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/251 633]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|13<br />
|U1<br />
|ZIF DIP Socket<br />
|28 pin, 0.3" pin spacing<br />
|Evil Mad Science<br />
|[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/54-zif20 212]<br />
|1<br />
|----<br />
|14<br />
|J5, J6 (jumper)<br />
|Target Power Enable, Auto-Reset Override (Jumper)<br />
|2 pin jumper block, 0.1” spacing<br />
|Digikey<br />
|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=A26242-ND A26242-ND]<br />
|2<br />
|----<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Assembly procedure ==<br />
<br />
We'll go line by line through the kit components. This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [[Bulbdial|Bulbdial clock]] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one].<br />
<br />
<br />
(Assembly instructions will be posted by June 1, 2011. Not yet!)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 1. The circuit board ===<br />
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/02.jpg<br />
<br />
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 2. The 10k ohm pull-up resistor and 100 ohm auto-reset override resistor ===<br />
The 10,000 ohm pull-up resistor is the smallest resistor in the kit. It has a color pattern of brown-black-orange-gold. Install it in location R1, solder both pins, and clip the excess leads short.<br />
<br />
The 100 ohm auto-reset override resistor has a color pattern of brown-black-brown-gold. Install it in location R7, solder both pins, and clip the excess leads short.<br />
<br />
These resistors may be orientated either way; resistors are not directional.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/04.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 3. The 1k ohm resistors ===<br />
There are five 1,000 ohm resistors. They have a color pattern of brown-black-red-gold.<br />
<br />
These go into locations R2, R3, R4, R5, and R6.<br />
<br />
Like the resistors above, these may be orientated either way.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/05.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 4. The six pin right angle header ===<br />
This six-pin header covers the two three-pin function select jumpers.<br />
<br />
The angled end of the header drops into the line of holes at location J5 and J6 as shown:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/07.jpg<br />
<br />
Carefully tack down one pin on the top of the board:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/08.jpg<br />
<br />
Make sure the long pins on the header are parallel with the board and that the header is fully seated on the board (the black plastic block should be resting on the board).<br />
<br />
If this isn't the case, carefully reheat the soldered joint and adjust the header as needed.<br />
<br />
Once the header is lined up flip the board over and solder all the pins, starting with the pin ''farthest'' from the first pin your soldered.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/09.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
Your board should look like this now:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/10.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 5. LEDs ===<br />
There are four LEDs to install.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/11.jpg<br />
<br />
Don't worry about mixing them up, they are all the same color. The LEDs go in locations labeled PULSE, PROG, HELLO, and ERROR.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/14.jpg<br />
<br />
Note that the orientation of the LED matters! The long lead on the LED is the positive (or anode) pin. The long pin goes in the hole with the square solder pad, like so:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/12.jpg<br />
<br />
Simply drop each LED in, bend the leads, solder, and clip off the excess.<br />
<br />
Do this four times and your board should look like this:<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/13.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 6. Crystal and Capacitors ===<br />
The crystal is the elongated silver can, and goes in location XTL. The orientation doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/15.jpg<br />
<br />
The related capacitors go in locations C2 and C3, on either side of the crystal. The orientation of these doesn't matter either.<br />
<br />
Note the black stripe along the top of each capacitor! Make sure you're using the right ones.<br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/16.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
=== 7. Capacitor and Switch ===<br />
There is one more capacitor, at location C1. It will look a lot like the capacitors at location C2 and C3 but will not have a black stripe.<br />
<br />
The reset switch goes in location RESET. <br />
<br />
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/17.jpg</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Main_Page&diff=851Main Page2011-05-24T01:48:32Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div><h1>'''Evil Mad Science Wiki'''</h1><br />
<br />
The Evil Mad Science Wiki is a new documentation resource for kits and other products at [http://evilmadscience.com/ Evil Mad Science]. It is intended to be a platform for in-depth tutorials that are longer than appropriate for [http://www.evilmadscientist.com/ Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories], where most of our documentation is currently hosted. Only a few of our kits are documented here so far, but we'll be moving more and more of the documentation here as time goes on.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Project documentation ==<br />
<br />
'''[[The Original Egg-Bot Kit|The Original Egg-Bot Kit]]'''<br />
<br />
'''[[Bulbdial|The Bulbdial Clock Kit]]'''<br />
<br />
'''[[Peggy_2|Peggy 2 and Peggy 2LE]]'''<br />
<br />
'''[[Meggy_Jr_RGB|Meggy Jr RGB]]'''<br />
<br />
'''[[ISP_Shield|Evil Mad Science ISP Shield]]'''<br />
<br />
<br />
Others to be added at a later date. :) <br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
''Note 1:'' This site is for documentation, not technical support. If you have specific support needs please check the documentation specific to your project, both at [http://www.evilmadscientist.com/ Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories] and here (if applicable), seek help [http://www.evilmadscientist.com/forum/ in the forums] related to your project, or <br />
contact Evil Mad Science directly through [http://evilmadscience.com/contact?Itemid=62 our contact form].<br />
<br />
''Note 2:'' While this site is intended to provide accurate documentation, it is also publicly editable, to encourage sharing of helpful tips and other relevant knowledge. Please exercise common sense.</div>Dhembryhttps://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/index.php?title=Main_Page&diff=850Main Page2011-05-20T01:11:16Z<p>Dhembry: </p>
<hr />
<div><h1>'''Evil Mad Science Wiki'''</h1><br />
<br />
The Evil Mad Science Wiki is a new documentation resource for kits and other products at [http://evilmadscience.com/ Evil Mad Science]. It is intended to be a platform for in-depth tutorials that are longer than appropriate for [http://www.evilmadscientist.com/ Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories], where most of our documentation is currently hosted. Only a few of our kits are documented here so far, but we'll be moving more and more of the documentation here as time goes on.<br />
<br />
<br />
== Project documentation ==<br />
<br />
'''[[The Original Egg-Bot Kit|The Original Egg-Bot Kit]]'''<br />
<br />
'''[[Bulbdial|The Bulbdial Clock Kit]]'''<br />
<br />
'''[[Peggy_2|Peggy 2 and Peggy 2LE]]'''<br />
<br />
'''[[Meggy_Jr_RGB|Meggy Jr RGB]]'''<br />
<br />
'''[[ISP_Shield|Evil Mad Science ISP Shield]]''' and '''[[ISP_Shield_2|ISP Shield 2]]'''<br />
<br />
<br />
Others to be added at a later date. :) <br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
''Note 1:'' This site is for documentation, not technical support. If you have specific support needs please check the documentation specific to your project, both at [http://www.evilmadscientist.com/ Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories] and here (if applicable), seek help [http://www.evilmadscientist.com/forum/ in the forums] related to your project, or <br />
contact Evil Mad Science directly through [http://evilmadscience.com/contact?Itemid=62 our contact form].<br />
<br />
''Note 2:'' While this site is intended to provide accurate documentation, it is also publicly editable, to encourage sharing of helpful tips and other relevant knowledge. Please exercise common sense.</div>Dhembry