Difference between revisions of "Art Controller Assembly Instructions"

Revision as of 13:44, 6 September 2012

Assembly procedure

We'll go line by line through the kit components. This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the Bulbdial clock assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like this one.

0. The simple relay shield kit

Here are all the components that make up the kit:

We'll be adding components to the various locations labeled on the board.

1. Install the three 1k ohm resistors

The 1k ohm resistors will be installed in location R1, R2 and R3. Shown here:

First, bend the resistor leads as shown:

Insert the first resistor in location R1 (Resistors are not directional and can be installed either way). You can bend the leads outward to keep the resistor in place while soldering. Solder both leads.

Make sure you have a good solder joint from the PCB pad to the resistor lead. The solder joint should be shiny without too much excess solder.

Clip the excess leads short on the back side. Then, install the second and third 1k ohm resistors at locations R2 and R3, in the same manner. Again, solder both pins and clip the excess leads short.

2. Install the two diodes

The diodes will be installed in locations D1 and D2, as shown here:

Again bend the leads as shown:

Install the diodes in positions D1 and D2. Diodes have polarity - be sure to match the stripes on the diode with the stripe on the PCB.

Just as we did with the resistors, bend the leads outward so they stay in place during soldering. Solder. Check for a good solder connection, then clip the excess leads.

3. The ceramic capacitors

The 0.1 uF capacitors will be installed in locations C2, C3 and C4, as shown here:

These are not directional and can be installed ether way. Just as before, bend the leads outward to hold the capacitor in place, solder and clip the excess leads.

4. The LEDs

The LED will be installed in locations D3 and D4, shown here:

Orientation is important: the long lead goes into the square hole.

Insert the LED but before soldering, you can bend the leads out at 45 degrees to hold an LED in place while you solder. Solder both leads and clip the leads short.

5. The electrolytic capacitors

The 10 uF, 50 V electrolytic capacitor will go in location C1:

This capacitor has polarity. It must be installed with the minus on the cap to the minus on the PCB.

Also, noting polarity, the 100 uF, 10 V electrolytic capacitor in location C5, as shown here:

Just as before, bend the leads outward, solder, and clip.

The board so far:

6. The transistor

The transistor will be installed in Q1, here:

Match the flat of the transistor to the flat on the PCB. The transistor will not sit flush but you can still bend the two outer legs to keep in place for soldering. Again, solder and clip the excess leads.

7. The regulator

The regulator will be installed in U1:

Bend the legs of the regulator back 45 degrees and place in location U1. Make certain that the back (silver side) of the regulator sits flush to the PCB and that the screw holes line up. Install the screw (item 10) and the kep nut (item 11) to hold the regulator in place. Solder and clip the excess leads.

8. The header and socket

The header will be installed in J4, here:

To add these, we recommend inserting the header and then resting the board-- upside down --on the header. Solder 'tack' one leg and verify that the header sits flush to the board before soldering the remaining pins.

For the DIP socket, shown here:

Install in the location marked ATtiny2313, make sure the half-moon of the socket matches that of the PCB.

Similar to the header, turn the PCB over and tack one end pin of each first and check to see that the socket is flush to the PCB before soldering the remainder of the pins:

9. The DIP switch

The DIP switch gets mounted here:

It is not directional. However, our recommendation would be to place the '1' of the DIP switch closest to the big '-' (minus) sign on the PCB. Similar to the header and socket, tack one pin, verify the DIP switch sits flush before soldering the remainder of the pins.

11. The terminal block

The green two-pin terminal blocks go in locations J1 and J2 -- with the holes facing outward:

Tack one of the pins to keep the component in place, turn the board over and check that the terminal block is straight and flush with the PCB before soldering the other pins.

The blue three-pin terminal block goes here -- also with the holes facing outward:

Repeat the procedure from the green terminal blocks.

12. The relay

Finally, add the relay (it can only go one way):

And solder in place:

That's it for soldering!

The final step is to insert the microcontroller. Be sure to orient the chip so the half-moon matches that of the socket and PCB.

And, you're done! That's it! Next, head back to the main Art Controller kit documentation page.