Big Digit Driver Assembly Instructions
This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the Big Digit Driver.
- 1 Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?"
- 2 Assembly procedure
- 2.1 1. The circuit board
- 2.2 2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor
- 2.3 3. Decimal Point Load Resistors
- 2.4 4. Other Current Sense Resistors
- 2.5 5. Base resistors
- 2.6 6. LED Resistor
- 2.7 7. Zener Diodes
- 2.8 8. Optional: Schmitt Trigger Bypass
- 2.9 9. Optional: SPI header ground connections
- 2.10 10. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets
- 2.11 11. Digital Control Transistors
- 2.12 12. Five Volt Linear Regulator
- 2.13 13. Current Regulators
- 2.14 14. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor
- 2.15 15. Other Capacitors
- 2.16 16. Power Indicator Lamp
- 2.17 17. Screw Terminal Power Connectors
- 2.18 18. SPI headers
- 2.19 19. DC Power Barrel Jack
- 2.20 20. Insert Shift Register
- 2.21 21. Optional: Insert Schmitt Trigger
- 2.22 12. Display connector
- 2.23 13. You're done with the electrical stuff!
- 2.24 14. Attach The Display
- 2.25 15. Delrin Insulator
- 2.26 16. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display
- 2.27 17. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display
- 2.28 18. Really done this time!
Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?"
|Line||Ref Des||Description||Type||Vendor||Vendor Part Number||Quantity per Board|
|1||N/A||PCB||Big Digit Driver board||EMS||N/A||1|
|2||R25||Current Sense Resistor for DP||22 ohm, substituting 24 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistor||Digikey||24QBK-ND||1|
|3||R1 through R5||DP Load Resistors||68 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors||DigiKey||68QBK-ND||5|
|4||R11,R13,R15,R17,R19,R21,R23||Current Sense Resistors||16 ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors||Digikey||16QBK-ND||7|
|5||R12,R14,R16,R18,R20,R22,R24,R26,R27||Base Resistors, Power LED Resistor||1k ohm 1/4 watt carbon film resistors||Digikey||1.0KQBK-ND||9|
|6||D1, D2||Linear Regulator Load, DP Load (Diodes)||1N4740A, 10V, 1 watt||Digikey||1N4740A-ND||2|
|7||U9||Shift Register Socket||16 pin 0.3" Socket||Digikey||A100206-ND||1|
|8||U10||Schmitt Trigger Socket||14 pin 0.3" Socket||Digikey||3M5462-ND||1|
|9||JP1 thru JP5||Data Out Schmitt Trigger Bypass||Zero ohm 'Resistors'||Digikey||0.0QTR-ND||5|
|10||Q1 thru Q8||Digital Control Transistors||2N3904, NPN Transistor, 40V, TO-92||Digikey||2N3904-APCT-ND||8|
|11||U1 thru U8||Current Regulators||LM317L, Adjustable Linear Regulator, 0.1A, TO-92||Digikey||LM317LZ-ND||8|
|12||U11||Linear Regulator||TL750L05, 5V, 150mA, TO-92||Digikey||296-8002-5-ND||1|
|13||C2||Bypass Capacitor||10uF Ceramic Capacitor||Digikey||445-4816-ND||1|
|14||C1, C3, C4||Bypass Capacitors||0.1uF Ceramic Capacitor||Digikey||BC1148TR-ND||3|
|15||LED1||Power LED||3mm Yellow LED||Digikey||754-1212-ND||1|
|16||J2, J3||Screw Terminal||2 position euro-style screw terminal||DigiKey||ED2635-ND||2|
|17||J5, J6||SPI Headers||6 pin (2x3 DIL) 0.1" Header||Digikey||609-3202-ND||2|
|18||J4||Power Jack||2.1mm ID Barrel Jack||Digikey||CP-002AH-ND||1|
|19||U9||Shift Register||74HCT595, 8-bit 16DIP||Digikey||568-1560-5-ND||1|
|20||U10||Schmitt Trigger||74ACT14, 16DIP||Digikey||296-4368-5-ND||1|
|21||J1||Display Connector||11 Position/22 Contact 0.156" pitch board edge connector||Digikey||EBM11DSAN-ND||1|
|22||N/A||Display Top Standoffs||Standoff, 7/8" round||Digikey||1848K-ND||2|
|23||N/A||Display Bottom Standoffs||Standoff, round, 3/4"||DigiKey||3488K-ND||2|
|24||N/A||Display Top Standoff Washers||1/16" thick Nylon Washers, #6 screw||McMaster||90295A090||2|
|25||N/A||Display Bottom/Driver Board Standoffs||1/8" tall Nylon standoff||McMaster||94639A407||2|
|26||N/A||Display Bottom/Driver Board/Mounting Screws||Screw, Button Socket Cap 6-32 x 1/2"||McMaster||92949A148||6|
|27||N/A||Display Top||Screw, Button socket Cap 6-32 x 3/8"||McMaster||92949A146||2|
|28||N/A||Delrin Insulator||Delrin Insulator||EMS||N/A||1|
Looks a bit imposing, huh? Don't worry, looks can be deceiving. We'll show you where each part goes.
This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the Bulbdial clock assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like this one.
1. The circuit board
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.
When we refer to locations on the board and say things like 'look on the left-hand side of the board', we assume the board is being held with the silk-screen side up (we'll be calling this the 'front side') and with the text right side up.
2. Decimal Point Current Sense Resistor
Let's start with an easy one! Locate the 24 ohm resistor (color code: Red/Yellow/Black/Gold).
Bend the leads as shown.
This will go in location R25 - it's right above the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.
Drop it in place (location R25), and bend the leads over by about forty-five degrees on the back of the board. With these resistors the orientation doesn't matter.
Solder the leads and clip off the extra wire.
This is the general procedure we'll follow for all the parts in this kit.
3. Decimal Point Load Resistors
Let's finish off the decimal point resistors.
We'll be installing 68 ohm resistors (color code: Blue/Gray/Black/Gold) in locations R1 through R5.
All of these locations are immediately to the left of the power jack footprint on the right-hand side of the board.
Bend the leads...
Drop in place, bend the leads over on the backside...
Solder and clip!
4. Other Current Sense Resistors
Getting the hang of this? Great!
Next, let's install the 16 ohms (color code: Brown/Blue/Black/Gold) current sense resistors. These come as a segment from a large spool. Just pull them straight out and straighten the leads as needed.
Installation procedure for these is exactly the same as the resistors above. These will go in locations R11, R13, R15, R17, R19, R21, and R23 (in a big line across the middle of the board).
5. Base resistors
Next, locate all the 1k ohm resistors (color code: Brown/Black/Red/Gold) and install them into locations R12, R14, R16, R18, R20, R22, R24, and R26 (again, in a big line across the middle of the board).
You may have noticed that we didn't use all the 1k ohm resistors available. Thats okay, we'll use the last one in step 6!
6. LED Resistor
Last resistor, we promise!
It's a 1k ohm (Brown/Black/Red/Gold), exactly like the resistors in step five. This resistor goes in location R27, between the large IC footprint near the top-middle of the board.
This is what your board should look like now:
7. Zener Diodes
Be careful with these - the resistors we installed above could be installed in any orientation, but not so with these diodes!
Look at the board for a second, and locate locations D1 and D2 (upper left-hand side of the board). Notice the thick white lines inside the footprint, on the left of the box?
Take a look at the diodes. See how they have black lines wrapped around one end of the glass cylinder?
These are polarity markings - when installing these parts you need to match up the black line on the diode with the white line on the footprint, like so:
Installing the diode backward could cause your Big Digit Driver to be damaged when you plug it in! Double check the orientation of your diodes before you solder them.
Other than keeping an eye on the polarity, installing the diodes is pretty much the same as the resistors we installed above.
8. Optional: Schmitt Trigger Bypass
Big Digit Drivers can be linked in series via the SPI ports on either side of the board. For long runs of digits (three or more) we've included a footprint for a Schmitt trigger - this IC will 'boost' the signals that run down the series of drivers and helps eliminate synchronization issues due to noise and attenuation.
If, for whatever reason, you don't want to use the Schmitt trigger you can instead install four jumpers in locations JP1, JP2, and JP3 (look in the upper right-hand side of the board).
For this we'll use zero-ohm 'resistors' - they have no real color code, they look like resistors with a single black stripe instead of five or more. They're not really resistors either (well, they do have a resistance - like all wire - but it is very low!) and each could actually be replaced with a length of wire if you prefer.
They go in like the resistors and diodes in the steps above.
(Note that in the photo above, jumper JP4 is also installed. Jumper JP4 is covered in step 9 - in this step we're only discussing the jumpers above it.)
There is no harm is using the Schmitt trigger on short runs of digits and using the bypass jumpers may work just fine for longer runs, but DO NOT use both at the same time! Using both shouldn't cause any damage, but the behavior of digits down the line will be strange and unpredictable.
9. Optional: SPI header ground connections
Since Big Digit Drivers can be wired in series essentially indefinitely, we also include the option of isolating the board from the the ground line on the SPI headers.
We recommend that you install these jumpers unless you are positive that you need to isolate drivers for some reason. Isolating the ground lines will only be useful to people who are driving a large number of digits for two or more power supplies.
Once again we'll be using zero ohm 'resistors' - just like above in step 8. We'll be installing them in locations JP5 (upper left-hand side of the board, just below the diodes) and JP4 (upper right-hand side of the board, below the Schmitt trigger bypass).
10. Shift Register and Schmitt Trigger Sockets
We don't recommend soldering chips directly to the board, and the kit include sockets for your convenience.
There are two IC footprint (U9 and U10) and they are slightly different sizes (U9 is 16 pins, and U10 is 14 pins). Make sure you have the right socket for the right footprint! If it doesn't drop in, or if the socket doesn't seem to cover the entire footprint, double check that you have the correct socket.
Take a look at the board - notice the 'notch'/semicircle on one end of the footprint? This is a polarity marking. Match this mark with the notch in the end of of the socket.
Drop the socket into its respective footprint and flip the board over (you can either hold the socket in place or use the surface of a table/desk/bench to hold it in place). Now there is a bit of a trick to getting the socket flush the with the board. First, we bend over two pins in order to hold the socket mostly in place - notice how the bent pins are on opposite rows and opposite ends of the footprint.
Then, solder TWO pins - either the two bent pins or the pins directly across from them. Flip the board over and check that the socket is flush with the board. If not, apply light pressure to the socket on the 'high' end and reheat the solder joint. The socket should 'snap' into place. Remember to give the solder a moment to cool before you take your hand away!
At this point you can solder the rest of the pins. Trim what excess you can - it'll save wear-and-tear on the insulators when you mount the display.
Then repeat for the other socket.
11. Digital Control Transistors
These transistors are little black cylinders with one side flattened and have three leads coming out one end. They should come attached to a strip of paper tape, but double check their markings just to be sure. They should have the number '2N3904' on the flattened side of the cylinder.
We will be installing these into locations Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q6, Q7, and Q8 (in a line across the middle of the board). Note that orientation matters! Take a peek at the board. See how the footprint is a circle with a flat side? That flat side matches up with the flat side on the part itself (the side with the text on it) - in other words, the flat side of the part should be facing toward the top of the board.
You may have noticed that the transistors also come with pre-bent leads - all you need to do is cut them loose from the paper strip and drop them in place.
12. Five Volt Linear Regulator
These will look similar to the transistors in step 11, except: they will have the number '750L05' on them, do not come attached to paper tape, and do not have their leads pre-bent.
Make sure you have the right part! There is only one voltage regulator and it will look very similar to the current regulators used in step 13. We will install this part in location U11 (upper left-hand side of the board, look for the words '5 Volt Regulator').
Like with the transistors in step 11, orientation matters! Again, line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board). Getting the leads into the proper holes may prove a bit tricky - you may want to pre-bend them yourself before attempting to install the part.
13. Current Regulators
These regulators will look very similar to the 5 Volt Regulator in step 12. Identical, in fact, except that they will have the number 'LM317' on them.
Install these in locations U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6, U7, and U8. Once again, orientation matter! Be sure to line up the flat side of the regulator with the flat side of the footprint on the board (the flat side should be facing toward the top of the board).
14. Linear Regulator Output Capacitor
This part will be a little blue blob with two leads coming out of it.
We'll be installing it in location C2 (look in the upper left-hand side of the board, under the '5 Volt Regulator' label). Don't worry about orientation.
15. Other Capacitors
These parts will be yellow brown blobs with two wires coming out of them, and come on paper tape (similar to the tape the transistors came in).
These will go in locations C1, C3, and C4. Orientation doesn't matter with these parts, so you can just drop them in.
16. Power Indicator Lamp
The Big Digit Driver board has a power light. Nothing fancy, just a yellow LED. It goes in location LED1 - between the two IC footprint in the upper middle of the board.
Note that orientation matters for this part: the long lead goes into the square hole.
17. Screw Terminal Power Connectors
These are the green plastic blocks with screws in the top of them. You can install them in any orientation, but it's probably better to install them with the wire slots facing outwards.
These go in locations J2 and J3, on either sides of the board.
Getting them to stay in place when solder is a bit tricky - we recommend placing the connector pins-up on a flat surface and laying the board onto it.
Only solder one pin at first. Check to make sure the connector is lined up correctly before soldering the other pin.
18. SPI headers
These are also a bit tricky. The SPI header is a two by three block of straight pins. These should drop right into locations J5 and J6, on the left-hand and right-hand side of the board. Solder one pin on the back and then flip the board over. Make sure that the header is perpendicular to the board and the black plastic block is seated on the board. Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back.
19. DC Power Barrel Jack
This part goes in location J4, on the right-hand side of the board.
Use the solder sparingly - just enough to tack it down. Flooding the holes may cause solder to bridge the gap between the holes and cause a short circuit.
20. Insert Shift Register
The shift register is a 16 pin IC that has '74HCT595N' on it. It is the top chip in this photo:
You may need to fiddle with the pins a bit to get it to plug into the socket at U9. Carefully pressing the side of the pins against a flat, hard surface is a good way to do this.
Orientation matters with this part! See that notch on one end of the IC? That should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.
21. Optional: Insert Schmitt Trigger
If you didn't install the Schmitt trigger bypass jumpers in step 8 you should install the Schmitt trigger at this point.
The Schmitt trigger is the 14 pin IC that has 'SN74ACT14N' written on it. It is the bottom chip in this photo.
The schmitt trigger and it goes in location U10. Like the shift register, Orientation matters: the notch on one end of the IC should line up with the notch/semi-circle on the IC footprint on the board.
12. Display connector
This part is the huge blue card edge socket with pins at a right angle. It goes in location J1.
Make sure you put it in the correct side of the board! The socket actually sits on the back of the board, not the front (i.e. not the side with all the other components).
Make sure the socket is completely seated on the board before you solder it down. Clip off any excess wire.
13. You're done with the electrical stuff!
Good work, the board is finished. Now lets get it attached to a display, eh?
14. Attach The Display
The driver board slides onto the back of the display. The card edge connector at location J1 should be sufficient to align.
15. Delrin Insulator
The plastic insulator goes between the driver board and display. Note that the insulator has two holes - these line up with the middle pair of holes on the driver board (specifically, the holes that are slightly farther from the edges than the other four and line up with the mounting holes in the display).
Be careful with the insulator! It is resistant against punctures, but is actually rather brittle. Don't twist or warp it unnecessarily.
16. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Bottom of Display
To secure the driver board to the display we use a 1/8 inch nylon washer, 1/2 inch long 6-32 screw, and a 3/4 inch threaded standoff. The washer goes between the display and the driver board, either on top of or under the Delrin insulator (your choice). Pass the 1/2 inch screw through the display board, insulator, washer, and driver board. Screw the standoff onto it.
17. Board Spacers And Standoffs - Top of Display
To match the height of the stack-up on the bottom of the display, use the 1/16 inch nylon washer, 7/8 inch threaded standoff, and 3/8 inch 6-32 threaded screw. Pass the 3/8 inch screw through the display board and washer, and screw the standoff onto it.
18. Really done this time!
That's it, you're completely done! Hang it on a wall and plug it in! The kit includes four extra 1/2 inch 6-32 screws for mounting purposes.