Editing ISP Shield 2 Assembly Instructions
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== Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" == | == Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?" == | ||
− | {| | + | |
− | + | {| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" | | |
− | | | + | |Line |
− | | | + | |Ref Des |
− | | | + | |Description |
− | | | + | |Type |
− | | | + | |Vendor |
− | |- | + | |Vendor Part Number |
+ | |Quantity | ||
+ | |---- | ||
|1 | |1 | ||
+ | | n/a | ||
+ | |PCB for ISP Shield 2.0 | ||
+ | |Printed circuit board | ||
+ | |Evil Mad Science | ||
+ | |[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/tinykitlist/254 681] | ||
|1 | |1 | ||
− | | | + | |---- |
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
|2 | |2 | ||
− | |||
|R1 | |R1 | ||
− | |Reset line pull-up resistor | + | |Reset line pull-up resistor |
+ | |10k, 1/6 W | ||
|Digikey | |Digikey | ||
− | |10KETR-ND | + | |[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=10KETR-ND 10KETR-ND] |
− | |- | + | |1 |
+ | |---- | ||
|3 | |3 | ||
− | |||
|R2 thru R6 | |R2 thru R6 | ||
− | |Reset and LED load resistors | + | |Reset and LED load resistors |
+ | |1000 ohm, 1/4 W | ||
|Digikey | |Digikey | ||
− | |1.0KQBK-ND | + | |[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=1.0KQBK-ND 1.0KQBK-ND] |
− | |- | + | |5 |
+ | |---- | ||
|4 | |4 | ||
− | |||
|R7 | |R7 | ||
− | |Auto-reset overrride resistor | + | |Auto-reset overrride resistor |
+ | |100 ohm, 1/4 W | ||
|Digikey | |Digikey | ||
− | |100QBK-ND | + | |[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=100QBK-ND 100QBK-ND] |
− | |- | + | |1 |
+ | |---- | ||
|5 | |5 | ||
+ | |J5, J6 | ||
+ | |Target Power Enable, Auto-Reset Overrride (Header) | ||
+ | |6 pin right-angle header, 0.1” spacing | ||
+ | |Digikey | ||
+ | |[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=SAM1043-06-ND SAM1043-06-ND] | ||
|1 | |1 | ||
− | | | + | |---- |
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
|6 | |6 | ||
+ | |PROG, ERROR, PULSE, HELLO | ||
+ | |Indicator LED | ||
+ | |3mm, Diffused Yellow | ||
+ | |Evil Mad Science | ||
+ | |[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/89-led#3mmdiff 357] | ||
|4 | |4 | ||
− | | | + | |---- |
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
|7 | |7 | ||
− | + | |XTL | |
+ | |Crystal | ||
+ | |16 MHz | ||
+ | |Digikey | ||
+ | |[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=XC1721-ND XC1721-ND] | ||
|1 | |1 | ||
− | + | |---- | |
− | | | + | |8 |
− | C2, C3 | + | |C2, C3 |
− | | | + | |Capacitors for crystal |
− | Capacitors for crystal | + | |18pF, 50 V ceramic |
− | | | + | |Digikey |
− | |[http:// | + | |[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BC1004CT-ND BC1004CT-ND] |
− | |- | + | |2 |
+ | |---- | ||
|9 | |9 | ||
− | |||
|C1 | |C1 | ||
− | |Bypass Capacitor | + | |Bypass Capacitor |
+ | |0.1uF Capacitor | ||
|Digikey | |Digikey | ||
− | |BC1148TR-ND | + | |[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BC1148CT-ND BC1148TR-ND] |
− | |- | + | |1 |
+ | |---- | ||
|10 | |10 | ||
+ | |S1 | ||
+ | |Reset Switch | ||
+ | |Tactile pushbutton switch | ||
+ | |Digikey | ||
+ | |[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=679-2452-ND 679-2452-ND] | ||
|1 | |1 | ||
− | | | + | |---- |
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
|11 | |11 | ||
+ | |ISP6 | ||
+ | |6 pin ISP Header | ||
+ | |2x3 pin 0.1” spaced DIL header | ||
+ | |Digikey | ||
+ | |[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=609-3202-ND 609-3202-ND] | ||
|1 | |1 | ||
− | | | + | |---- |
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
|12 | |12 | ||
+ | |J1 thru J4 | ||
+ | |Header set, 6-pin (2 pcs), 8-pin (2 pcs) | ||
+ | |Stacking type header, 0.1” spacing | ||
+ | |Evil Mad Science | ||
+ | |[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/251 633] | ||
|1 | |1 | ||
− | | | + | |---- |
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
|13 | |13 | ||
+ | |U1 | ||
+ | |ZIF DIP Socket | ||
+ | |28 pin, 0.3" pin spacing | ||
+ | |Evil Mad Science | ||
+ | |[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/54-zif20 212] | ||
|1 | |1 | ||
− | | | + | |---- |
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
|14 | |14 | ||
+ | |J5, J6 (jumper) | ||
+ | |Target Power Enable, Auto-Reset Override (Jumper) | ||
+ | |2 pin jumper block, 0.1” spacing | ||
+ | |Digikey | ||
+ | |[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=A26242-ND A26242-ND] | ||
|2 | |2 | ||
− | | | + | |---- |
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
|} | |} | ||
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Here's what the bare circuit board looks like: | Here's what the bare circuit board looks like: | ||
− | http:// | + | http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/02.jpg |
We'll be adding components to the various locations labeled on the board. | We'll be adding components to the various locations labeled on the board. | ||
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=== 1. Install the 10k resistor and 100 ohm resistor === | === 1. Install the 10k resistor and 100 ohm resistor === | ||
− | http:// | + | http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/03.jpg |
There are three types of resistor in the kit: | There are three types of resistor in the kit: | ||
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When you've finished adding these two resistors, your board should look like this: | When you've finished adding these two resistors, your board should look like this: | ||
− | http:// | + | http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/04.jpg |
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=== 2. Install the 1k resistors === | === 2. Install the 1k resistors === | ||
− | http:// | + | http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/05.jpg |
Next, install the 1k resistors. There are five of these resistors, that go in locations R2, R3, R4, R5, R6-- the other places where resistors are visible in the photo above-- and are installed with the same technique as the last resistors. | Next, install the 1k resistors. There are five of these resistors, that go in locations R2, R3, R4, R5, R6-- the other places where resistors are visible in the photo above-- and are installed with the same technique as the last resistors. | ||
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http://shop.emscdn.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/07.jpg | http://shop.emscdn.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/07.jpg | ||
− | http:// | + | http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/08.jpg |
The pins are thick and do not bend easily. So, there is a trick that you can use to prevent the header from falling out of the board when you turn it over to solder it in place, and to make sure that it ends up squarely in place. | The pins are thick and do not bend easily. So, there is a trick that you can use to prevent the header from falling out of the board when you turn it over to solder it in place, and to make sure that it ends up squarely in place. | ||
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First, carefully solder just one pin to the board as shown above. (We suggest the one with the square pad.) Then, make sure the long pins on the header are parallel with the board and that the header is fully seated on the board: the black plastic block should be flush to the board. If this is not the case, carefully reheat the soldered joint and adjust the header as needed. Be careful-- it will be hot! | First, carefully solder just one pin to the board as shown above. (We suggest the one with the square pad.) Then, make sure the long pins on the header are parallel with the board and that the header is fully seated on the board: the black plastic block should be flush to the board. If this is not the case, carefully reheat the soldered joint and adjust the header as needed. Be careful-- it will be hot! | ||
− | |||
− | http:// | + | |
+ | http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/09.jpg | ||
Once the header is lined up flip the board over and solder all the other five pins to the board. (You can solder all six from the bottom, but remember to start with one of the holes that isn't the square-pad one!) Trimming the header pins on the back side is optional (they may interfere with the DC barrel jack on an Arduino board and prevent the shield from laying flat). | Once the header is lined up flip the board over and solder all the other five pins to the board. (You can solder all six from the bottom, but remember to start with one of the holes that isn't the square-pad one!) Trimming the header pins on the back side is optional (they may interfere with the DC barrel jack on an Arduino board and prevent the shield from laying flat). | ||
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Your board should look like this now: | Your board should look like this now: | ||
− | http:// | + | http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/10.jpg |
+ | |||
+ | |||
=== 4. The LEDs === | === 4. The LEDs === | ||
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Orientation is important: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''. | Orientation is important: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''. | ||
− | http:// | + | http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/12.jpg |
Solder them in place and clip the leads short. After inserting the LEDs but before soldering, you can bend the leads out at 45 degrees to hold an LED in place while you solder. | Solder them in place and clip the leads short. After inserting the LEDs but before soldering, you can bend the leads out at 45 degrees to hold an LED in place while you solder. | ||
− | http:// | + | http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/14.jpg |
+ | If everything is correct, the flat faces of each LED will appear as shown above. | ||
Your board should look like this: | Your board should look like this: | ||
− | http:// | + | http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/13.jpg |
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=== 5. The Crystal and Capacitors === | === 5. The Crystal and Capacitors === | ||
− | http:// | + | http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/15.jpg |
This quartz crystal is contained in a shiny metal can-- shaped like a stainless-steel twinkie rejected by a robot smurf -- with two prongs. The two prongs go in the outer two holes (not the middle hole) of location XTL on the circuit board. It is not directional; it can go in either way. As before, solder it in place and clip the leads. | This quartz crystal is contained in a shiny metal can-- shaped like a stainless-steel twinkie rejected by a robot smurf -- with two prongs. The two prongs go in the outer two holes (not the middle hole) of location XTL on the circuit board. It is not directional; it can go in either way. As before, solder it in place and clip the leads. | ||
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=== 6. 18 pF ceramic capacitors === | === 6. 18 pF ceramic capacitors === | ||
− | http:// | + | http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/16.jpg |
These are two tiny yellow devices, ''marked with a black stripe'' to label them. The go in locations C2 and C3, on either side of the crystal. They are not directional; they can go in either way. Solder both in place and trim their leads. | These are two tiny yellow devices, ''marked with a black stripe'' to label them. The go in locations C2 and C3, on either side of the crystal. They are not directional; they can go in either way. Solder both in place and trim their leads. | ||
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=== 7. 0.1 uF ceramic capacitor === | === 7. 0.1 uF ceramic capacitor === | ||
− | There | + | There is only one, and it goes in location C1. It looks just like the 18 pF capacitor, but without the black stripe. It is not directional; it can go in either way. Solder it in place and clip the leads. |
+ | |||
+ | |||
=== 8. Reset switch === | === 8. Reset switch === | ||
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Having added the capacitor in the last step and now the switch, your board should look like this: | Having added the capacitor in the last step and now the switch, your board should look like this: | ||
− | http:// | + | http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/17.jpg |
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Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. | Once you're sure the header is seated properly, solder the rest of the pins on the back. | ||
− | http:// | + | http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/18.jpg |
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Once everything is aligned, flip the board back over and solder the rest of the pins. Try to use a minimal amount of solder, so that solder does not wick down onto the pins, as that could potentially cause difficulty inserting the shield into an otherwise receptive Arduino board. | Once everything is aligned, flip the board back over and solder the rest of the pins. Try to use a minimal amount of solder, so that solder does not wick down onto the pins, as that could potentially cause difficulty inserting the shield into an otherwise receptive Arduino board. | ||
− | http:// | + | http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/19.jpg |
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Press the socket flush to the board. If you lower the lever, you can rest the board upside down on the ZIF socket while you solder the pins in place. The leads on the back side are short enough that they do not need to be trimmed. | Press the socket flush to the board. If you lower the lever, you can rest the board upside down on the ZIF socket while you solder the pins in place. The leads on the back side are short enough that they do not need to be trimmed. | ||
− | http:// | + | http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/21.jpg |
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Push the jumpers onto the six pin header at location J5 and J6. | Push the jumpers onto the six pin header at location J5 and J6. | ||
− | http:// | + | http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/22.jpg |
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=== 13. You're Done! === | === 13. You're Done! === | ||
− | http:// | + | http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/01.jpg |
− | http:// | + | http://cdn2.evilmadscience.com/wiki/ispshield/assy_v2/23.jpg |