Editing ISP Shield Assembly Instructions
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− | This | + | This is a work in progress, to be finished and posted the week of March 28, 2011. |
− | http://evilmadscience | + | This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/ISP_ShieldISP ISP Shield]]. |
+ | http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/catalog/emskits/ispshield/kit/imgmed/3.jpg | ||
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|PCB for ISP Shield | |PCB for ISP Shield | ||
|Printed circuit board | |Printed circuit board | ||
− | |Evil Mad | + | |Evil Mad Science |
− | |[http:// | + | |[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/tinykitlist/254 681] |
|1 | |1 | ||
|---- | |---- | ||
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|Indicator LED | |Indicator LED | ||
|3mm, Diffused Yellow | |3mm, Diffused Yellow | ||
− | |Evil Mad | + | |Evil Mad Science |
− | |[http:// | + | |[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/89-led#3mmdiff 357] |
|4 | |4 | ||
|---- | |---- | ||
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|Header set, 6-pin (2 pcs), 8-pin (2 pcs) | |Header set, 6-pin (2 pcs), 8-pin (2 pcs) | ||
|Stacking type header, 0.1” spacing | |Stacking type header, 0.1” spacing | ||
− | |Evil Mad | + | |Evil Mad Science |
− | |[http:// | + | |[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/251 633] |
|1 | |1 | ||
|---- | |---- | ||
|12 | |12 | ||
|U1 | |U1 | ||
− | |ZIF | + | |ZIF Dip Socket |
|28 pin, 0.3" pin spacing | |28 pin, 0.3" pin spacing | ||
− | |Evil Mad | + | |Evil Mad Science |
− | |[http:// | + | |[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/54-zif20 212] |
|1 | |1 | ||
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== Assembly procedure == | == Assembly procedure == | ||
− | We'll go line by line through the kit components. This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one]. | + | We'll go line by line through the kit components. This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [[http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock]] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [[http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one]]. |
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Here's what the bare circuit board looks like: | Here's what the bare circuit board looks like: | ||
− | http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/ | + | http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/catalog/emskits/ispshield/pcb/imgmed/1.jpg |
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there. | We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there. | ||
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You can see the smaller size of the resistor in this photo: | You can see the smaller size of the resistor in this photo: | ||
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− | http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/ | + | http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/catalog/emskits/ispshield/kit/imgmed/1.jpg |
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=== 5. LEDs === | === 5. LEDs === | ||
− | There are four LEDs included | + | There are four LEDs included iwth the kit, that go in the locations labeled PROG, ERROR, PULSE, and HELLO. Orientation is important: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''. Solder them in place and clip the leads short. After inserting the LEDs but before soldering, you can bend the leads out at 45 degrees to hold an LED in place while you solder. |
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These go in locations J1 through J4, and go straight through the board to provide connections to the Arduino board below. | These go in locations J1 through J4, and go straight through the board to provide connections to the Arduino board below. | ||
− | http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/ | + | http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/catalog/emskits/ispshield/kit/imgmed/2.jpg |
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To add these, we recommend inserting all four headers and then resting the board-- upside down --on the four headers, so that they sit flush to the board. Solder one end pin of each first. Then, flip it back over and make sure that all four pins are straight and flush to the board. This is important for good connections. Then, flip it upside down again and solder the rest of the pins. Try to avoid excess solder, so that solder does not wick either down into the hole (bad!) or onto the pins (also bad!). | To add these, we recommend inserting all four headers and then resting the board-- upside down --on the four headers, so that they sit flush to the board. Solder one end pin of each first. Then, flip it back over and make sure that all four pins are straight and flush to the board. This is important for good connections. Then, flip it upside down again and solder the rest of the pins. Try to avoid excess solder, so that solder does not wick either down into the hole (bad!) or onto the pins (also bad!). | ||
− | + | Do *not* trim the long leads short. :) | |
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− | Do *not* trim | ||
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− | === 13. Target power jumper === | + | === 13. Target power jumper === |
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− | http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/ | + | http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/catalog/emskits/ispshield/kit/imgmed/7.jpg http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/catalog/emskits/ispshield/kit/imgmed/8.jpg |
If you are going to use your ISP Shield to program chips that are not in the ZIF socket, you'll need to add a 6-pin ribbon cable to connect to an appropriate external target. The ISP shield can, optionally provide 5 V power to your target. If you want to do this, slide the jumper over the two pins labeled "Yup." If not, keep it in the "Nope" position. | If you are going to use your ISP Shield to program chips that are not in the ZIF socket, you'll need to add a 6-pin ribbon cable to connect to an appropriate external target. The ISP shield can, optionally provide 5 V power to your target. If you want to do this, slide the jumper over the two pins labeled "Yup." If not, keep it in the "Nope" position. | ||
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− | + | 14 n/a Optional resistor for auto-reset override 100 ohm, 1/4 W Digi-Key 100QBK-ND 1 |