Difference between revisions of "Relay Shield Assembly Instructions"

From Evil Mad Scientist Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search
(Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?")
(update to scientist)
 
Line 11: Line 11:
 
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|''' Vendor Part Number '''
 
| align="center" style="background:#f0f0f0;"|''' Vendor Part Number '''
 
|-
 
|-
| 1||1||PCB||Circuit board, Simple Relay Shield||Evil Mad Science||[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/tinykitlist/548 9600033]
+
| 1||1||PCB||Circuit board, Simple Relay Shield||Evil Mad Scientist||[http://shop.evilmadscientist.com/productsmenu/tinykitlist/548 9600033]
 
|-
 
|-
 
| 2||2||R1, R2||1000 ohm 1/4 W Resistor||Digi-Key||Digi-Key 1.0KQBK-ND
 
| 2||2||R1, R2||1000 ohm 1/4 W Resistor||Digi-Key||Digi-Key 1.0KQBK-ND
Line 17: Line 17:
 
| 3||2||D1,D2||1N5817 Diode, Schottky ||Digi-Key||Digi-Key 1N5817-TPCT-ND
 
| 3||2||D1,D2||1N5817 Diode, Schottky ||Digi-Key||Digi-Key 1N5817-TPCT-ND
 
|-
 
|-
| 4||1||D3||Red T1 LED||Evil Mad Science||[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/336 9330026]
+
| 4||1||D3||Red T1 LED||Evil Mad Scientist||[http://shop.evilmadscientist.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/336 9330026]
 
|-
 
|-
 
| 5||1||C2||100 uF 10 V Capacitor, electrolytic||Digi-Key||Digi-Key P963-ND
 
| 5||1||C2||100 uF 10 V Capacitor, electrolytic||Digi-Key||Digi-Key P963-ND
Line 25: Line 25:
 
| 7||1||Q1||2N4401 Transistor, NPN||Digi-Key||2N4401D26ZCT-ND
 
| 7||1||Q1||2N4401 Transistor, NPN||Digi-Key||2N4401D26ZCT-ND
 
|-
 
|-
| 8||1||J1-J4||6/8-pin female stacking header set||Evil Mad Science||[http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/251 633]
+
| 8||1||J1-J4||6/8-pin female stacking header set||Evil Mad Scientist||[http://shop.evilmadscientist.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/251 633]
 
|-
 
|-
 
| 9||1||J5||3-pos, 5.08 mm Term block||Digi-Key||ED2610-ND
 
| 9||1||J5||3-pos, 5.08 mm Term block||Digi-Key||ED2610-ND

Latest revision as of 13:21, 15 November 2012

This page walks through the process of assembling the Simple Relay Shield Kit.

Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?"[edit]

 Line   Qty   Reference   Value   Vendor   Vendor Part Number 
1 1 PCB Circuit board, Simple Relay Shield Evil Mad Scientist 9600033
2 2 R1, R2 1000 ohm 1/4 W Resistor Digi-Key Digi-Key 1.0KQBK-ND
3 2 D1,D2 1N5817 Diode, Schottky Digi-Key Digi-Key 1N5817-TPCT-ND
4 1 D3 Red T1 LED Evil Mad Scientist 9330026
5 1 C2 100 uF 10 V Capacitor, electrolytic Digi-Key Digi-Key P963-ND
6 1 C1 0.1 uF 25 V Capacitor, ceramic Digi-Key BC1148TR-ND
7 1 Q1 2N4401 Transistor, NPN Digi-Key 2N4401D26ZCT-ND
8 1 J1-J4 6/8-pin female stacking header set Evil Mad Scientist 633
9 1 J5 3-pos, 5.08 mm Term block Digi-Key ED2610-ND
10 1 Relay G5LA-14 DC5 SPDT, 5A Digi-Key Z2560-ND

Assembly procedure[edit]

We'll go line by line through the kit components. This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the Bulbdial clock assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like this one.



0. The simple relay shield kit[edit]

Here are all the components that make up the kit:

1.jpg

We'll be adding components to the various locations labeled on the board.

1. Install the two 1k ohm resistors[edit]

2.jpg

The 1k ohm resistors will be installed in location R1 and R2. Shown here:

3.jpg


First, bend the resistor leads as shown:

4.jpg


Insert the first resistor in location R1 (Resistors are not directional and can be installed either way):

5.jpg


Bend the leads outward to keep the resistor in place while soldering:

6.jpg


Solder both leads:

7.jpg


Make sure you have a good solder joint from the PCB pad to the resistor lead. The solder joint should be shiny without too much excess solder.

9.jpg


Clip the excess leads short on the back side.

10.jpg

11.jpg

Then, install the second 1k ohm resistor at location R2, in the same manner. Again, solder both pins and clip the excess leads short.


When you've finished adding these two resistors, your board should look like this:

12.jpg


2. Install the two diodes[edit]

13.jpg

The diodes will be installed in locations D1 and D2, as shown here:

14.jpg


Bend the leads as shown:

15.jpg


Install the diodes in positions D1 and D2. Diodes have polarity - be sure to match the stripes on the diode with the stripe on the PCB.

16.jpg


Just as we did with the resistors, bend the leads outward so they stay in place during soldering. Solder. Check for a good solder connection and clip the excess leads.


3. The LED[edit]

17.jpg

The LED will be installed in location D3, shown here:


18.jpg

Orientation is important: the long lead goes into the square hole.

19.jpg


Insert the LED but before soldering, you can bend the leads out at 45 degrees to hold an LED in place while you solder. Solder both leads and clip the leads short.

Your board should look like this:

20.jpg


4. The capacitors[edit]

21.jpg


The electrolytic capacitor will go in location C2:

22.jpg


This capacitor has polarity. It must be installed with the minus on the cap to the minus on the PCB, as shown here:

23.jpg


Just as before, bend the leads outward, solder, and clip.


Next, we'll add the ceramic cap to location C1:

24.jpg

This one can be installed in either direction.


The board so far:

25.jpg


5. The transistor[edit]

27.jpg


The transistor will be installed in Q1, here:

26.jpg


Match the flat of the transistor to the flat on the PCB. The transistor will not sit flush but you can still bend the two outer legs to keep in place for soldering. Once soldered, it will look like this:

28.jpg

6. The 'Stackable' Headers[edit]

The Simple Relay Shield is intended to be used as a 'shield' with an Arduino or Arduino-compatible board, and so it comes with the appropriate 'stacking' headers.

29.jpg


The headers will be installed in the outermost holes. The two 6-pin headers on one side, 8-pins on the other, as shown here:

30.jpg


To add these, we recommend inserting all four headers and then resting the board-- upside down --on the four headers, so that they sit flush to the board.

32.jpg


Solder one end pin of each first.

33.jpg


Flip the board back over and check that the pins are perpendicular to the board. Make sure the headers aren't 'twisted' in their sockets - make sure the edges of the socket are parallel with the silkscreen outline on the board.

If any header/socket isn't aligned correctly, heat up the solder on the single soldered pin and adjust the header/socket as needed.

Once everything is aligned, flip the board back over and solder the rest of the pins. Try to use a minimal amount of solder, so that solder does not wick down onto the pins, as that could potentially cause difficulty inserting the shield into an otherwise receptive Arduino board. Do not clip these leads.

34.jpg

The board so far:

35.jpg


11. The terminal block[edit]

The terminal block goes in location J5 -- with the holes facing outward, as shown:

36.jpg


Similar to the headers, solder 'tack' one of the pins to keep the component in place, turn the board over and check that the terminal block is straight and flush with the PCB before soldering all three pins.

37.jpg


12. The relay[edit]

Finally, add the relay (It can only go in one way), and solder in place:

38.jpg


And, you're done! That's it! Next, head back to the main Simple Relay Shield kit documentation page.