Difference between revisions of "ISP Shield Assembly Instructions"
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|XTL | |XTL | ||
|Crystal | |Crystal | ||
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|C2, C3 | |C2, C3 | ||
|Capacitors for crystal | |Capacitors for crystal | ||
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|[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BC1004CT-ND BC1004CT-ND] | |[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BC1004CT-ND BC1004CT-ND] | ||
|2 | |2 | ||
+ | |---- | ||
+ | |8 | ||
+ | |C1 | ||
+ | |Bypass Capacitor | ||
+ | |0.1uF Capacitor | ||
+ | |Digikey | ||
+ | |[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=BC1148CT-ND BC1148TR-ND] | ||
+ | |1 | ||
|---- | |---- | ||
|9 | |9 | ||
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== Assembly procedure == | == Assembly procedure == | ||
+ | We'll go line by line through the kit components. This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [[http://wiki.evilmadscience.com/Bulbdial Bulbdial clock]] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [[http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/ this one]]. | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | === 1. The circuit board. === | ||
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like: | Here's what the bare circuit board looks like: | ||
http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/catalog/emskits/ispshield/pcb/imgmed/1.jpg | http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/catalog/emskits/ispshield/pcb/imgmed/1.jpg | ||
− | We'll go line | + | We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there. |
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | === 2. 10 k pull-up resistor === | ||
+ | |||
+ | This is the one ''smaller'' resistor. Install it in location R1, solder both pins, and clip the excess leads short. Orientation: either way; resistors are not directional. | ||
+ | |||
+ | You can see the smaller size of the resistor in this photo: | ||
+ | |||
+ | http://evilmadscience.s3.amazonaws.com/catalog/emskits/ispshield/kit/imgmed/1.jpg | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | === 3. 1 k resistors === | ||
+ | |||
+ | There are five of these resistors, that go in locations R2, R3, R4, R5, R6-- the other places where resistors are visible in the photo above-- and are installed with the same technique as the last resistor. | ||
+ | |||
+ | The color code on these is Black-Brown-Red-Gold, but more importantly, note that there are ''five of the same type,'' which go in these locations. In the kit, these may be taped or bagged to separate them from the other resistors. | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | === 4. The "Target Power" header === | ||
+ | |||
+ | This is a three-pin right-angle header that lies flat to the board. It's visible in the photos, but with the jumper (line #13) already installed. The easiest way to install this is to put it on the board, then turn the board over to let it rest on the header while you solder it in place. We suggest soldering ONE pin only first, and checking to see if it's mounted flush and square to the board before starting the other two pins. | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | === 5. LEDs === | ||
+ | |||
+ | There are four LEDs included iwth the kit, that go in the locations labeled PROG, ERROR, PULSE, and HELLO. Orientation is important: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''. Solder them in place and clip the leads short. After inserting the LEDs but before soldering, you can bend the leads out at 45 degrees to hold an LED in place while you solder. | ||
+ | |||
− | 1 | + | === 6. 0.1 uF === |
+ | There are four LEDs included iwth the kit, that go in the locations labeled PROG, ERROR, PULSE, and HELLO. Orientation is important: the ''long lead'' goes into the ''square hole''. Solder them in place and clip the leads short. After inserting the LEDs but before soldering, you can bend the leads out at 45 degrees to hold an LED in place while you solder. | ||
+ | |||
− | + | 6 C1 Bypass Capacitor 0.1uF Capacitor Digikey BC1148TR-ND 1 | |
− | + | 7 XTL Crystal 16 MHz Digikey XC1721-ND 1 | |
− | + | 8 C2, C3 Capacitors for crystal 18pF, 50 V ceramic Digikey BC1004CT-ND 2 | |
− | + | 9 S1 Reset Switch Tactile pushbutton switch Digikey 679-2452-ND 1 | |
− | + | 10 ISP6 6 pin ISP Header 2x3 pin 0.1” spaced DIL header Digikey 609-3202-ND 1 | |
− | 6 | + | 11 J1 thru J4 Header set, 6-pin (2 pcs), 8-pin (2 pcs) Stacking type header, 0.1” spacing Evil Mad Science 633 1 |
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
− | |||
12 U1 ZIF Dip Socket 28 pin, 0.3" pin spacing Evil Mad Science 212 1 | 12 U1 ZIF Dip Socket 28 pin, 0.3" pin spacing Evil Mad Science 212 1 | ||
− | 13 n/a Optional resistor for auto-reset override 100 ohm, 1/4 W Digi-Key 100QBK-ND | + | 13 J5 (jumper) Target Power Enable, Jumper 2 pin jumper block, 0.1” spacing Digikey A26242-ND 1 |
− | + | 14 n/a Optional resistor for auto-reset override 100 ohm, 1/4 W Digi-Key 100QBK-ND 1 |
Revision as of 15:53, 23 March 2011
This is a work in progress, to be finished and posted the week of March 28, 2011.
This page walks through the basic assembly process for building the ISP Shield].
Contents
Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?"
Line | Ref Des | Description | Type | Vendor | Vendor Part Number | Quantity |
1 | n/a | PCB for ISP Shield | Printed circuit board | Evil Mad Science | 681 | 1 |
2 | R1 | Reset line pull-up resistor | 10k, 1/6 W | Digikey | 10KETR-ND | 1 |
3 | R2 thru R6 | Reset and LED load resistors | 1000 ohm, 1/4 W | Digikey | 1.0KQBK-ND | 5 |
4 | J5 | Target Power Enable, Header | 3 pin right-angle header, 0.1” spacing | Digikey | TSW-103-25-F-SRA-ND | 1 |
5 | PROG, ERROR, PULSE, HELLO | Indicator LED | 3mm, Diffused Yellow | Evil Mad Science | 357 | 4 |
6 | XTL | Crystal | 16 MHz | Digikey | XC1721-ND | 1 |
7 | C2, C3 | Capacitors for crystal | 18pF, 50 V ceramic | Digikey | BC1004CT-ND | 2 |
8 | C1 | Bypass Capacitor | 0.1uF Capacitor | Digikey | BC1148TR-ND | 1 |
9 | S1 | Reset Switch | Tactile pushbutton switch | Digikey | 679-2452-ND | 1 |
10 | ISP6 | 6 pin ISP Header | 2x3 pin 0.1” spaced DIL header | Digikey | 609-3202-ND | 1 |
11 | J1 thru J4 | Header set, 6-pin (2 pcs), 8-pin (2 pcs) | Stacking type header, 0.1” spacing | Evil Mad Science | 633 | 1 |
12 | U1 | ZIF Dip Socket | 28 pin, 0.3" pin spacing | Evil Mad Science | 212 | 1 |
13 | J5 (jumper) | Target Power Enable, Jumper | 2 pin jumper block, 0.1” spacing | Digikey | A26242-ND | 1 |
14 | n/a | Optional resistor for auto-reset override | 100 ohm, 1/4 W | Digi-Key | 100QBK-ND | 1 |
Assembly procedure
We'll go line by line through the kit components. This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the [Bulbdial clock] assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like [this one].
1. The circuit board.
Here's what the bare circuit board looks like:
We'll be adding components to the labeled locations there.
2. 10 k pull-up resistor
This is the one smaller resistor. Install it in location R1, solder both pins, and clip the excess leads short. Orientation: either way; resistors are not directional.
You can see the smaller size of the resistor in this photo:
3. 1 k resistors
There are five of these resistors, that go in locations R2, R3, R4, R5, R6-- the other places where resistors are visible in the photo above-- and are installed with the same technique as the last resistor.
The color code on these is Black-Brown-Red-Gold, but more importantly, note that there are five of the same type, which go in these locations. In the kit, these may be taped or bagged to separate them from the other resistors.
4. The "Target Power" header
This is a three-pin right-angle header that lies flat to the board. It's visible in the photos, but with the jumper (line #13) already installed. The easiest way to install this is to put it on the board, then turn the board over to let it rest on the header while you solder it in place. We suggest soldering ONE pin only first, and checking to see if it's mounted flush and square to the board before starting the other two pins.
5. LEDs
There are four LEDs included iwth the kit, that go in the locations labeled PROG, ERROR, PULSE, and HELLO. Orientation is important: the long lead goes into the square hole. Solder them in place and clip the leads short. After inserting the LEDs but before soldering, you can bend the leads out at 45 degrees to hold an LED in place while you solder.
6. 0.1 uF
There are four LEDs included iwth the kit, that go in the locations labeled PROG, ERROR, PULSE, and HELLO. Orientation is important: the long lead goes into the square hole. Solder them in place and clip the leads short. After inserting the LEDs but before soldering, you can bend the leads out at 45 degrees to hold an LED in place while you solder.
6 C1 Bypass Capacitor 0.1uF Capacitor Digikey BC1148TR-ND 1 7 XTL Crystal 16 MHz Digikey XC1721-ND 1 8 C2, C3 Capacitors for crystal 18pF, 50 V ceramic Digikey BC1004CT-ND 2 9 S1 Reset Switch Tactile pushbutton switch Digikey 679-2452-ND 1 10 ISP6 6 pin ISP Header 2x3 pin 0.1” spaced DIL header Digikey 609-3202-ND 1 11 J1 thru J4 Header set, 6-pin (2 pcs), 8-pin (2 pcs) Stacking type header, 0.1” spacing Evil Mad Science 633 1 12 U1 ZIF Dip Socket 28 pin, 0.3" pin spacing Evil Mad Science 212 1 13 J5 (jumper) Target Power Enable, Jumper 2 pin jumper block, 0.1” spacing Digikey A26242-ND 1 14 n/a Optional resistor for auto-reset override 100 ohm, 1/4 W Digi-Key 100QBK-ND 1