User:Iwa

This page walks through the process of assembling the Simple Relay Shield Kit.

Bill of Materials, or, "What's in the kit?"

Line	Ref Des	Description	Type	Vendor	Vendor Part Number	Quantity
1	n/a	PCB for ISP Shield 2.0	Printed circuit board	Evil Mad Science	683	1
2	R1, R2	LED and load resistors	1k, 1/4 W	Digikey	1.0KQBK-ND	2
3	D1, D2	Arduino protection and flyback diode	Diode, Schottky 1N5817 20V 1A DO-41	Digikey	1N5817-TPCT-ND	2
4	D3	Indicator LED	3mm, Diffused Red	Evil Mad Science	[1]	1
5	C2	Electrolytic capacitor	Cap, 100uF, 10V, electrolytic	Digikey	P963-ND	1
6	C1	Ceramic capacitor	Cap, 0.1uF, 25V, ceramic, radial	Digikey	BC1148TR-ND	1
7	Q1	Transistor	2N4401TFR	Digikey	2N4401D26ZCT-ND	1
8	J1 thru J4	Header set, 6-pin (2 pcs), 8-pin (2 pcs)	Stacking type header, 0.1” spacing	Evil Mad Science	633	1
9	J5	Terminal block	3 position 5.08 mm	Digikey	ED2610-ND	1
10	Relay	Relay	5 V 5 A SPDT Relay	Digikey	Z2560-ND	1

Assembly procedure

We'll go line by line through the kit components. This guide assumes that you have had some soldering experience. If not, or it's been a while, you may also want to look at pages 2 and 5-7 of the Bulbdial clock assembly instructions, which go over basic tools and technique. And, if you really are a beginner, there are plenty of good tutorials on line, like this one.

0. The circuit board

Here are all the components that make up the kit:

We'll be adding components to the various locations labeled on the board.

1. Install the two 1k ohm resistors

The 1k ohm resistors will be installed in location R1 and R2. Shown here:

First, bend the resistor leads as shown:

Insert the first resistor in location R1 (Resistors are not directional and can be installed either way):

Bend the leads outward to keep the resistor in place while soldering:

Solder both leads:

Make sure you have a good solder joint from the PCB pad to the resistor lead. The solder joint should be shiny without too much excess solder.

Clip the excess leads short on the back side.

Then, install the second 1k ohm resistor at location R2, in the same manner. Again, solder both pins and clip the excess leads short.

When you've finished adding these two resistors, your board should look like this:

2. Install the two diodes

The diodes will be installed in locations D1 and D2, as shown here:

Bend the leads as shown:

Install the diodes in positions D1 and D2. Diodes have polarity - be sure to match the stripes on the diode with the stripe on the PCB.

Just as we did with the resistors, bend the leads outward so they stay in place during soldering. Solder. Check for a good solder connection and clip the excess leads.

3. The LED

The LED will be installed in location D3, shown here:

Orientation is important: the long lead goes into the square hole.

Insert the LED but before soldering, you can bend the leads out at 45 degrees to hold an LED in place while you solder. Solder both leads and clip the leads short.

Your board should look like this:

4. The capacitors

The electrolytic capacitor will go in location C2:

This capacitor has polarity. It must be installed with the minus on the cap to the minus on the PCB, as shown here:

Just as before, bend the leads outward, solder, and clip.

Next, we'll add the ceramic cap to location C1:

This one can be installed in either direction.

The board so far:

5. The transistor

The transistor will be installed in Q1, here:

Match the flat of the transistor to the flat on the PCB. The transistor will not sit flat but you can still bend the two outer legs to keep in place for soldering. Once soldered, it will look like this:

6. The 'Stackable' Headers

The Simple Relay Shield is intended to be used as a 'shield' with an Arduino or Arduino-compatible board, and so it comes with the appropriate 'stacking' headers.

The headers will be installed in the outermost holes. The two 6-pin headers on one side, 8-pins on the other, as shown here:

To add these, we recommend inserting all four headers and then resting the board-- upside down --on the four headers, so that they sit flush to the board.

Solder one end pin of each first.

Flip the board back over and check that the pins are perpendicular to the board. Make sure the headers aren't 'twisted' in their sockets - make sure the edges of the socket are parallel with the silkscreen outline on the board.

If any header/socket isn't aligned correctly, heat up the solder on the single soldered pin and adjust the header/socket as needed.

Once everything is aligned, flip the board back over and solder the rest of the pins. Try to use a minimal amount of solder, so that solder does not wick down onto the pins, as that could potentially cause difficulty inserting the shield into an otherwise receptive Arduino board. Do not clip these leads.

The board so far:

11. The terminal block

The terminal block goes in location J5 -- with the holes facing outward, as shown:

Similar to the headers, solder 'tack' one of the pins to keep the component in place, turn the board over and check that the terminal block is straight and flush with the PCB before soldering all three pins.

12. The relay

Finally, add the relay, solder in place and you're done!