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| | This page contains some collected tips and hints for making happy WaterColorBots, addressing known things that can go wrong. | | This page contains some collected tips and hints for making happy WaterColorBots, addressing known things that can go wrong. |
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| | In some circumstances, you will get one of these messages on your first attempt to connect, even when everything is seemingly connected correctly; always try again at least once if your computer cannot find the WaterColorBot. | | In some circumstances, you will get one of these messages on your first attempt to connect, even when everything is seemingly connected correctly; always try again at least once if your computer cannot find the WaterColorBot. |
| − | * In RoboPaint, you have the option to "Try to reconnect"
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| − | * In Inkscape (with the Control WaterColorBot extension), you have the option to click "Apply" again
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| − | * In RoboPaint RT, there is no option to reconnect; quit the program and re-open it.
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| | The motors can only exert a certain amount of force. If that force is insufficient to overcome the friction from the spectra cord and moving the carriage, then the motors will not be able to move. | | The motors can only exert a certain amount of force. If that force is insufficient to overcome the friction from the spectra cord and moving the carriage, then the motors will not be able to move. |
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| − | To check the level of friction, raise the brush and turn off the motors, so that you can turn the winches by hand. When you try to turn the winch, it should turn easily, and move the carriage when you do so. If it does not turn easily over the full range of travel, then you need to figure out why. | + | To check the level of friction, raise the brush and turn off the motors, so that you can turn the winches by hand. When you try to turn the winch, it should turn easily, and move the carriage when you do so. If it does not turn easily, then you need to figure out why. |
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| | The most common cause of high friction is if the two steel rods are not square to the chassis. You can check this by moving the carriage to the home corner, and making sure that all four rod-end sliders line up evenly against their stops. | | The most common cause of high friction is if the two steel rods are not square to the chassis. You can check this by moving the carriage to the home corner, and making sure that all four rod-end sliders line up evenly against their stops. |
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| | A second thing to check is to make sure that the Spectra cord is routed through the grooves on the three ball bearings. | | A second thing to check is to make sure that the Spectra cord is routed through the grooves on the three ball bearings. |
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| − | Third, make sure that the cord is wound "neatly" around the winches. If the cord ''wraps over itself'' on the winch, it can prevent the winch from turning. If you find that this the cord is overlapped and preventing the winch from turning, we would recommend fully un-lacing the cord back to the winch, and winding it again, paying careful attention to the follow the winding procedure from the manual. (From experience, we have learned that it takes a few minutes to re-wind from scratch, but you can spend hours trying unsuccessfully to correct a knot-tying wrap problem.) | + | Third, check to make sure that you have not ''over-tightened'' the spectra cord. If you plug the string, and it sounds like any musical instrument other than a string bass, you probably have too much tension. |
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| − | Finally, check to make sure that you have not ''over-tightened'' the spectra cord. If you pluck the string, and it sounds like any musical instrument other than a string bass, you probably have too much tension.
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| | ==== There is too much slack in the cord ==== | | ==== There is too much slack in the cord ==== |
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| − | ==== Motors are too weak ====
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| − | If the motors are too weak, from having the motor current on the EBB set too low, the motors can cog as a result. See [[WaterColorBot_Troubleshooting#Motors_are_apparently_too_weak|Motors are apparently too weak]] below.
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| − | == Cord falling off of bearings ==
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| − | If the Spectra cord falls out of the bearings, then the WaterColorBot will not run smoothly. This can only happen if the cord is far too loose. It can be corrected by retensioning the cord.
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| − | We have typically found that the cord can become loose after the first 1-3 hours of using the WaterColorBot (as the cord settles into shape), and that it is generally necessary to retension it once. After you retension it once, it will likely not need any any tension adjustments for at least the next few months, even if you use the WaterColorBot regularly.
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| − | === Retensioning the cord ===
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| − | Undo the screws that hold down the loose cord end on the top of the relevant winch. Square up the rod ends to the frame (as in Step 20 of the assembly instructions), pull the slack out of the cord, and tie up the cord as you did the first time that you wound them.
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| − | == Motors do not move at all ==
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| − | Make sure that both the USB cable and the power supply are plugged in. If the USB cable is plugged in but power is not, the WaterColorBot will be responsive to your computer, but the motors ''will not move''.
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| − | == Issues arising from current setpoint on EBB ==
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| − | The current sent to the two stepper motors (Motor 1 and Motor 2) is set by the current adjustment pot on the EBB. If your stepper motors are weak, make high-pitch whining noises, exhibit jittery behavior, or produce inconsistent step sizes, you probably need to adjust the current setting on the EBB. We would recommend *NOT* adjusting the motor current until you are sure that the WaterColorBot is otherwise set up correctly-- such that turning the winches by hand produces smooth, clean movement on each axis.
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| − | Note that the current setpoint does not affect the brush-lift (servo motor).
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| − | === How to adjust the motor current ===
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| − | The pot (abbreviation for [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potentiometer potentiometer]) is a tiny, flat adjustment "knob" on the EBB, that you can adjust by inserting a small screwdriver and turning it. The location on the board is either labeled "CUR ADJ" or "CURRENT ADJ" depending on the batch of particular EBBs that yours came from. The total range of motion on the pot is about 2/3 of a revolution, and turning it over the full range will give the WaterColorBot both too little current to run the motors, and too much current, such that the motors become jerky and noisy. Depending on your particular board, it may be that turning your pot clockwise ''or'' counterclockwise may be the direction that increases current. (It is usually obvious, once you turn start adjusting it, which is increasing or decreasing current.)
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| − | | + | == Motors get hot == |
| − | ==== Adjusting current while painting ====
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| − | The most common procedure to adjust the current is to first remove the paintbrush and then to begin painting (for example, one of the examples in RoboPaint). While the WaterColorBot is trying to paint, insert the screwdriver into the pot, and gently adjust it one way or the other until the motors are moving smoothly and quietly.
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| − | You may find that the WaterColorBot acts differently when the screwdriver is inserted or is not inserted into the pot, so remove your screwdriver from the pot after adjusting current to make sure that it performs as desired.
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| − | ==== Adjusting current while parked ====
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| − | Alternately (or if the current is tuned so poorly that you cannot begin painting), you can initially tune the current when not painting. To do so, first make sure that your motors are enabled (energized). You can do this by opening up RoboPaint ro RoboPaint RT (both of which turns on the motors when they launch), or by selecting Enable Motors from the Manual tab of Control WaterColorBot in Inkscape. Once you have done so, turn the potentiometer until the motors provide moderate resistance to turning by hand.
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| − | If you happen to have a multimeter handy, you can also monitor the voltage at test point TP3 as you adjust the current. We would suggest 1.125 V at TP3 as a starting point for further adjustment.
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| − | ==== Advice for adjusting the motor current ====
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| − | From years of experience with the EBB at Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories, we have found the following:
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| − | * The current setpoint on any given EBB will be need to be adjusted a maximum of exactly one times total in its lifetime.
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| − | Additionally, when everything is working correctly, you will find that:
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| − | * A properly tuned motor may get warm, but will not get too hot to touch.
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| − | * A properly tuned motor sounds musical when it runs, making clean tones, without grinding or whistling noises.
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| − | * A properly tuned motor paints smoothly and (apparently) effortlessly.
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| − | === Motors get hot ===
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| | Under use, the motors will typically get warm, but they should not get too hot to touch. If they do, your motor current is set too high. Adjust the current setpoint on the EBB. | | Under use, the motors will typically get warm, but they should not get too hot to touch. If they do, your motor current is set too high. Adjust the current setpoint on the EBB. |
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| − | | + | == Motors make funny noises == |
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| − | === Motors make funny noises ===
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| | Does it sound like chunk-chunk-chunk? If so, your motors are cogging. Read the section about that earlier. | | Does it sound like chunk-chunk-chunk? If so, your motors are cogging. Read the section about that earlier. |
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| − | === Motors are apparently too weak ===
| + | == Motors are apparently too weak == |
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| | If all of the following are true: | | If all of the following are true: |
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| | Then it is likely that the motor current setpoint is too low. Adjust the current setpoint on the EBB. | | Then it is likely that the motor current setpoint is too low. Adjust the current setpoint on the EBB. |
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| | == Servo motor (Brush-lift motor) makes a buzzing noise == | | == Servo motor (Brush-lift motor) makes a buzzing noise == |
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| | The servo motor can sometimes make a mild buzzing noise. This is usually not harmful, but if it sounds loud and angry, it may be the case that you are operating outside the area that it is comfortable to operate in. In Inkscape and RoboPaint, you can use the preferences to adjust the servo endpoints. If you go higher (or lower) than the servo can move, it will stress the servo motor, and make noise doing so. | | The servo motor can sometimes make a mild buzzing noise. This is usually not harmful, but if it sounds loud and angry, it may be the case that you are operating outside the area that it is comfortable to operate in. In Inkscape and RoboPaint, you can use the preferences to adjust the servo endpoints. If you go higher (or lower) than the servo can move, it will stress the servo motor, and make noise doing so. |
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| − | == Corrosion on rods ==
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| − | The two rods that go through the carriage are made from a type of tool steel that can rust. They normally have a very thin, protective layer of oil on their surfaces. However, that layer is easily removed or disturbed, and a small amount of surface corrosion is (not beautiful but) normal and should not interfere with operation. If there is an excess of corrosion, follow the instructions below to clean and protect the rods. In case of very severe corrosion, such that the rods do not move smoothly through the carriage even after cleaning, the rods may need to be replaced. Note that the steel rods and linear bushings ''do not'' require lubrication; you should only add oil (following the directions below) if you have found corrosion to be an issue in your environment.
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| − | * To remove the rods from the WaterColorBot: Manually, or using RoboPaint RT, move the carriage to the middle of the frame. Starting with the horizontal rod, lift one rod-end slider out of its groove, and pop the rod out of the slider. Pull the opposite end out of its slider as well, and slide the rod out. Repeat for the other rod.
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| − | * To clean and protect the rods: With a kitchen sink scrubber sponge, steel wool, or an extra-fine abrasive pad (a "green scrubber pad"), remove the external corrosion. (Please do not use the sandpaper that came with the kit; it is too coarse.) You may want to do this with soap and warm water under a running sink. Thoroughly dry the rods, e.g., with a towel. Next, you'll need some sort of household lubricating oil. Good types of oils to use included 3 in 1 oil, a drop of (new, clean) motor oil, baby oil, mineral oil, gun oil, or Vaseline (petroleum jelly). (Cooking and other plant oils are not generally suitable as they tend to dry out and become sticky.) Coat the rods with a very thin layer of the oil. To do so, put a drop (or small blob, in the case of Vaseline) on a towel or paper towel, and rub that over the surfaces of the rods. They should not be dripping with oil, but instead have just a light sheen on the surfaces. When re-installing the rods on the WaterColorBot, make sure that your hands are clean of oil before touching the wooden parts.
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| − | * If you need to reassure yourself that the rods move smoothly through the carriage....
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| − | ** If the carriage is presently installed on the robot, first move the carriage to the home corner, and make sure that all four rod-end sliders line up evenly against their stops. Then, (with power disconnected) turn the two winches like knobs, to drive the carriage to the opposite corner, making sure that the motion is smooth.
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| − | ** If the carriage is not presently installed on the robot, try sliding each rod through the carriage, to see if the motion is smooth.
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| | Paper tends to warp as it gets wet, particularly with uneven wetting and lower grades of paper. Methods of dealing with this include pre-wetting and stretching paper, as well as holding paper down with tape or in blocks. Watercolor painting is an old art, and people have been solving these problems for hundreds of years; you may want to read up on the subject online or in books. | | Paper tends to warp as it gets wet, particularly with uneven wetting and lower grades of paper. Methods of dealing with this include pre-wetting and stretching paper, as well as holding paper down with tape or in blocks. Watercolor painting is an old art, and people have been solving these problems for hundreds of years; you may want to read up on the subject online or in books. |
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| − | One of the most common methods of dealing with warping is to paint on a "wet canvas" (really, wet paper). If doing so, you may prefer to use the PVC plastic spoilboard (available [http://shop.evilmadscientist.com/component/content/article/658 here]), rather than the wooden one. | + | One of the most common methods of dealing with warping is to paint on a "wet canvas" (really, wet paper). If doing so, you may prefer to use the PVC plastic spoilboard (available [http://shop.evilmadscientist.com/component/content/article/658 here], rather than the wooden one. |
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| | == Spare and replacement parts == | | == Spare and replacement parts == |
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| | - Brush catches on edge of water dish or paint pans | | - Brush catches on edge of water dish or paint pans |
| − | * Adjust brush height
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| | - Brush isn't washing very well | | - Brush isn't washing very well |
| − | * Adjust brush height
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| | - Failing to actually dip into the water, to re-wet the brush. | | - Failing to actually dip into the water, to re-wet the brush. |
| − | * Adjust brush height
| + | - Allow longer period of time for brush to move up and down |
| − | * Change raise/lower duration; Allow longer period of time for brush to move up and down
| + | In Robopaint: Settings > Basic Settings > Duration |
| − | ** In Robopaint: Settings > Basic Settings > Duration
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